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munkey_mike

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About munkey_mike

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  • Location
    Texas
  1. Yup it's the neutral safety switch. Unplugged the starter wire, shifted to neutral, cranked to Start and I could hear the fuel pump fire right up and fuel pressure shoot up. Thanks.
  2. Hmmm. Yes mine is an automatic. However I did not see an inhibitor relay next to the others when I tested them if this picture is correct: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/302977-relay-part-280z.html I do remember seeing an unplugged 4 pin connector in there though. I guess it IS possible the previous owner took it out for some reason... I will try to jump it.
  3. I did not install a bypass, I have a Power Probe device. It hooks up to the car battery and there is a probe that detects positive, negative as well as an on/off supply power switch. I probe the positive terminal of the pump and engage the supply switch. Because the pump is already properly grounded, the pump works manually in this way.
  4. Here is a video of voltage behavior directly from the harness to fuel pump: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qTzo8jDNHu1PWRyb8
  5. EF-16 of the FSM says "When the ignition switch is turned to the START position for cranking operation, the fuel pump is actuated irrespective of the conditions of the alternator and the engine oil pressure switch."
  6. My fuel pump does not get voltage when cranking. I have to manually run voltage to the pump to prime the fuel lines. Once pressurized (over 30 PSI) the car starts after a few seconds of cranking and then the fuel pump kicks on. I have checked the fuel pump relay and fuel pump control relay with a multimeter and the continuity tests come back normal. I have also unplugged the starter lead wire and turned the ignition to start and do not hear the fuel pump. The voltage to the pump only increases VERY slightly when I do this. I'm going to upload a video here in a bit.
  7. Anybody willing to tear their 280z switch apart? I get the feeling this tiny bearing will be misplaced if I don't take care of it soon lol.
  8. This is actually where the the 240z and 280z switches deviate the most. I've included a photo. I'm pretty confident the ball bearing does not go there. Has anyone seen a guide for the 280z switch?
  9. So I decided to completely tear down my 1978 280z turn signal switch. I cleaned and lubed every moving part and it is 1000x times better now. However I am left with one extra ball bearing. There are a total of 3 bearings. The two larger ones go on each end of the rocker part. The last one is significantly smaller and I have no idea where it is supposed to sit. I honestly don't even remember taking that bearing out. Does anyone know where it belongs?
  10. Anyone know where I can get some new caps with the wires intact? Or is there some way I can just rewire the cap somehow?
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