motorsci

Thanks for your imput. I really appreciate any response I get for the instalation of the safety equipment I put in my car. I've read the rules for the SCCA Street Prepared class, but the documentation I found was vague. Here are the rules I found: Roll cages must comply with the following: 1. The roll cage need not be removable. It shall be bolted or welded to the car. 2. The cage shall attach to the car at no more than 8 points, consisting of the basic cage with 6 attachment points, and 2 additional optional braces. 3. The forward part of the cage shall be mounted to the floor of the vehicle. If used, the 2 optional braces referred to in (2) shall be mounted, one on either side, from the forward section of the cage to the firewall or front fender wells. No braces shall pass through the front firewall. Installation of roll cages in Street Prepared cars must follow the same standards for interior modifications to accommodate the cage installation as those which are applicable to Showroom Stock or Touring cars in Club Racing. If anyone has any better info on doing this correctly, it would be most appreciated.

Me and a friend started building my roll cage, this is my hoop not to bad do you think we need to add digonal bar ? This is 1"1/2 .95 dom tubing I'll post more pics as progress continues

Check your clean power and ground to the msd box a pore conection can cause this. one way Ive found to check for this tap the triger wire and see if your msd clicks this may not be your issue but it seams to be the most comin problem with msd cd boxes Ihave worked on

I found a way to sovle this issue the is a different regulator to convert the gm1 wire to a key on exciter wire the makes the circuit for the charge light it coast 15$

I have autometer gauges but there is no room for a volt gauge now. What I would like to do is make a charge light from a l.e.d but Iam not shure how to turn it on when the alternator is not charging. My car has a painless wiring harnes installed and Iam using a gm 1 wire altnator

I axels are in the correct location and the cv cage has ben filped. There are only 2 options that I can come up with frist is to install ajustable controll arms. Second is to have the axel shorted. Becuse the scope of this build is to keep the stock controll arms I will persue shorting the axel

I have ban able to force the suspension in place with a ratchet strap but I still have no side to sdie movement with the suspension loaded I am concerned that this condition will damage the diff

I am installing a set of 300zx axels in a '72 240z. The passenger's side went in with no problem. The driver's side is too tight. It is about a half in too long. I tried flipping the cage over, but it looked like it had already been done. Has anyone has this problem before running stock control arms?

The stage 2 duration is 234 intake 234 exhaust The stage 3 duration is 232 intake 234 exhaust

Me and my buddy have the same set up. n42, flatops, su carbs, sm needles crane high6 ignition with ps2 coil and n36 intake. The difference is he has a schneider stage 3 cam 270/280 duration 460 lift and my cam is a stage 2 274/274 480 lift. both are cars will be on the road in the spring a local z club has a dyno day and are z club is planing an event at the drag strip on test and tune night we plan to post are numbers but juist interested in what you guys think might have the most power

I have 2 cylender heads the frist is a n42 the second came off a 77 810 /maxima. I cc both the maxima n47 was 37cc and the n42 was 42cc. I understand that the n47 maxima head will yeald higher C.R . My question is what is the difference in the combustion chambers? The threads I have read hype this head as having a better combustion chamber or that its like a p79/p90 head. after looking at both heads side by side I see little or no difference in the combustion chambers. I compared the n47 maxima head to a 280z n47 the 280z had larger intake valves and roughly 44 cc so the do aper to be differnt heads with the same casting number.

Has any one purchased a lsd brace from v8 240z@juno.com off the links form zcar.com .

A high compresion turbo is not a bad Idea. 7psi to 10psi would be the most on a 10 :1 the p90 head would produce more power it,s a better head and increses the volume of the cylender. so If the volume is greater more fuel and air can be packed into the cylender and more hp. meggasqurit for the money is the best deal your biggest gain will be form an aftermarket adjustable fule /ignition system. good luck there 8.7 to one is a verry good set up fore a turbo 8.5 is suposed to be ideal

ve has a driect effect on performance a turbo has dished pistons for this reason decresing compresion will increse ve this can be done with dished pistons thicker head gasket and cam timing retarded cam will lower compersion advanced cam timing wil raise compresion but you will lose ve

I want to put a nos sports man fogger system on my f54 l28 flat top piston n42 head stock cam and dule sus with sm needles. this is a direct port system with 6 fogger nossels it adjust from 50 to 250 hp. what is the most could do on this set up