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p7x

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p7x last won the day on July 26

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About p7x

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  1. Hey man, ya be good to meet other owners.
  2. New drive shaft (prop) is ordered and last night went through the whole back end and tightened everything to spec. Something I should of done from the beginning ... lesson learned. Pretty much everything was spec except the inner and outer lower control arm bolts those were pretty loose. gonna take the car out today to see if tightening things helped at all. Once the new driveshaft is in I’ll update the thread.
  3. Hello Everyone, In May I bought a 1978 280z 5 Speed with 250,000 miles on it. Been in California for 41 years until now, California spec car. I've always loved the S30s and been wanting one for years. My plan this year is to get it into very good mechanical shape and over many years to come to slowly restore / mod it. Thanks in advance for your help / advice.
  4. Ya there’s a good shop near by that I’m gonna call this week talk to them and see what they’ll charge. I feel I could do a driveshaft (prop) swap just no clue about the balancing of the driveshaft (prop)
  5. Ya just to be clear I’m talking driveshaft(prop shaft) between the tranny and diff, not half shafts. From what I can find from multiple sources is after 75 you can’t replace the u-joints on the driveshaft easily. In my hunt I’ll probably take the half shafts off as well to inspect them.
  6. Research tells me that you can't replace the U-joints or not easily anyways. Nissan changed them in 75 and it looks like if I were going down the route to fix it i'd have to replace the whole driveshaft...
  7. Started a new thread on my hunt for the clunk.
  8. Hey Everyone, So I replaced my front diff mount with a solid unit and now the clunk in the car is louder more pronounced than before. Worn diff mount might have contributed but now with the solid mount its exacerbated the clunk. I'm new to the S30s so with all the experience on this forum I was hoping you all could help me in determining if there is too much play in the drive line and what might be the source of the "Clunk". Assuming the old rubber diff mount absorbed some of teh slack and now with a solid unit the play in the driveshaft is now more pronouced. Videos below showing some play in the driveshaft U-Joints at the tranny and very little play in the U-Joints at the diff. Based on the last video I think the driveshaft -Joint at the tranny is potentially the source of the clunk. transmission to driveshaft play Driveshaft to Diff play Driveshaft twist and clunk I'd appreciate your thoughts / advice
  9. Ya I was tracking but replaced it as it was simple to do. UPDATE / Another lesson: The clunk is louder more pronounced than before. Worn diff mount might have contributed but now with the solid mount its exacerbated the clunk. Time to dive into the thread posted above and find the next item that needs tightening / replacing.... Thanks again for chiming in.
  10. Yes they were... were as in I made a 3 foot breaker bar and that did the trick. Loud snap and I thought I broke the head off the bolt but once got about a quarter turn they were loose and hit them with the impact and came off / out no problem. Installed the new Mount easily and strap easily. Thanks for the replies and info.
  11. Gents you are bolder than I am. Slowly building my skills and know how with basics tools. Was hoping the mount swap would fix the clunking in the rear end. Just got the car and This year I just need to keep it in running / driving condition until next year when I can actually start restoring it. Thanks for the replies. I’ll update the thread on how things go.
  12. That might have to be the next step. Because in wrenching on the bolt head vice the nuts I'm worried about applying that much pressure
  13. Stock front diff mount - the long bolts that bolt the mount to the diff with the nuts on top of the diff and the head of the bolts facing down. The mount was toast so I torn it apart to access the heads on the bolts
  14. Hey all, The search function on here crashes on me constantly so pardon if there's a thread on this but didn't find it. I'm replacing the Diff mount with a solid billet unit on my 78 280z but the mount bolts in the Diff will not break. I've used a smallish breaker bar and my 18v Impact and I cant break the torque on the bolts. I've used my larger torque wrench to see how much torque i'm putting on them and its showing im put over 65 lb/ft and the aren't moving. I believe the torque spec for the bolts is 58 lb/ft and ready to get a impact wrench but concerned ill snap the head right off the bolts. Any tips / tricks / advice for a new S30 owner?
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