datjunky

thanks guys! here we go!

Hi Gang, Im not on the forums much these days.. but ive remained consistent in my Datsun livelihood. I am headed to Portland tomorrow to pickup a 72 240Z that has been covered in a garage since 78.. It's likely one of a handful out there that has its original dash and is currently crack free. I'd really like to keep it that way! I will be flatbed towing it back to my place in Salt Lake City, Utah, where its very hot and dry. Im concerned that the dash will crack in the near future. So, my question is... What would you guys do, to give the car.. the dash, the best likelihood of remaining crack free? I plan to put a carpet style dash cover on it (when I pick it up), keep the windows cracked and put a sunblocker in the windshield, but I keep questioning whether I should put some kind of protect-ant on the dash itself? What would you guys do?? All opinions appreciated.. and please... keep your fingers crossed for me that it doesn't crack on the way home!! Jason

Hi, Im looking for a few misc parts.. all need to be good driver quality parts. 1) 240/260 turn signals with pigtails and mounting studs intact ( I have a good passenger side without pigtail) 2) rear hatch support and rear hatch interior trim piece (fits on hatch, needs to be BLACK) 3) a pair of oem wiper arms. Im hoping one person has all these parts, but of coarse not mandatory. Let me know what you have.. condition and price shipped to 84663 (Utah) Thanks!

Understood.. I dont have a surface temp reader or another gauge handy.. but, just this morn it did boil over.. it climbed to what would be around 220-230 on the gauge, i pulled over and lifted the hood.. puked antifreeze out the overflo. it had not done that before, nor had it reached that high on the gauge. it sure seems like a faulty thermostat. the first one was whatever MSA sells, the one in it now is a NAPA one.. im going to order a Nissan part and see if I get the same results.. not sure what else to try. the car runs great other than that initial spike. goes down the freeway at around 195 on the factory gauge in 90 degree temps @80mph.

The thermostat is a 180. Id say its getting to around 200-210 on my gauge. It seems to vary a bit each time, as to how far it will climb before the thermo opens and cools things off. Ive never seen this in any of my other Z's. Not too worried as its hot only very briefly. Just seems a bit odd. Thanks for your response and explanation.

I have a 70Z with a F-54/E88 mtr in it. New radiator, water pump, etc. When I start it up cold, the temp gauge rises to 3/4 briefly. Then goes back to the middle (normal). I sure thought it was a thermostat not opening correctly, so I put a new one in.. Same thing. The car runs at normal operating temp all day after that initial warm up. Whats the deal?? Thanks!

That is exactly what I needed to know.. Thank you.

Ok.. I dont get on this site much these days.. but i did search. i just put an 81 motor in my 72. rather than drilling out the head to accept a mechanical pump, im opting for an electric. i followed the recommendation for the rx7 pump. its mounted by the tank near the "mystery electric pump supply wires", that currently do not have power to them. ive put 12v to the pump, it works, and the motor runs! ive found the "t" connector near the radio area, and with a continuity tester, ive confirmed continuity from this "t" to the factory "unused" wiring. ive also confirmed power to the "t" connector at the radio area. my question is.. what do i need to do with that "t" to get power back to the pump wires? the "t" is plugged in to its corresponding plug, but i dont get power back to the pump wires. also, is there a "factory" relay that is incorporated into this circuit? what else do i need to do, other than getting power to the "factory" supply wires. someone please send a link or some simple answers to get this car up and going!! thanks guys! Jason

thanks... But I did use a jumper on the ceramic resistor.. Any other thoughts?

Hey Z Fellers, I have a 72 that I have swapped an 81 drivetrain into, including the distributor. I followed a link on this site for the wiring of the distributor. Last sunday, I attempted to start it for the first time.. It started! But as soon as I realease the key from the "start" position it dies. Like its only completing a circuit in that position. I have not touched the tach. I know Im close and it must be simple.. I only have a few hours on sunday to touch it again, so Im hoping to have a little more direction, rather than spending my few hours on this site searching. Any trouble shooting direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. datjunky

Im looking for a balance tube complete from a 70-72 240z. Last part needed to make attempt at starting the motor on this project! Thanks!!

thanks guys.. getting somewhere now.. I called 18racing today (Jessica) informed her that I may want to change my order and just get another pair of 16x7s.. If I understand the last post correctly, then I would think I could run a 215/40 or maybe 50 in the rear with the 8" +10?

Well.. the 16x7's came yesterday.. They are sweet! Im thinking I may call and see if she will sell me another pair of them, and forget about trying to make the 8"s fit in the rear.. Do you think you could get away with a 215 or 225 tire on the rear... without rolling the fenders?

Well.. I ordered them.. wish I could have had a more definite answer first. So my order details.. (2) 16x7 with a +4 offset for the front.. those will be shippped out immediately. (2) 16x8 with +10 offset for the rear.. the questionable ones. and of coarse they are on back order for 2 months! the price for all of them shipped? $600. So, we'll anxiously await the 2, then wait for the other 2.. I wish it was the other way around, and they had the 8"s. So, if youre thinking about new rotas for the new year, better call and see if you can get em.. Ill update with pics in late march or april when I have the other 2 with tires mounted.

Yes.. that is the consensus I came to.. But it seems most discussion for these wheels in particular are related to cars that have body modifications. I wish I would have rolled the fenders before I painted it. Not going to chance it now. Ill let this thread roll till tuesday, and then order regardless. Hopefully some one chimes in with this exact setup on a 240.

I looked on ebay, then called them. Haven't got exact prices yet. But it will be around $600 shipped. I followed the link you provided, and it was mostly people looking for answers (a 5 year old thread). Im not hopeful to get 225/50s on it.. maybe 215s. I have a set of 16x7 panaports with 225s on them.. and they rub everywhere. i dunno, maybe that 10 offset is the ticket!?

Yikes.. Dangerous post. Ok.. im sure the answer must exist here, but ive looked longer than i ever want to be on a computer. seems most cars are modified for larger wheels.. So, im hoping somone can just give me a simple answer here. I did just call 18racing for info and this is. and below is what she said...without certainty. The Car. 1970 240z with 1" eibach lowering springs, uncut orig body car. already painted, rolling is not an option. stock suspension otherwise. The wheel im interested in.. 16" rota rbs. 18Racing (Jessica) says I can go with a 16x7 in the front with 4mm offset (sounds right, not worried) and a 16x8" in the rear with a 10mm offset (8", worried) Has someone out there got this exact setup, on a unmodified 240z (other than 1" lowering springs)? Id love to have the staggered look on a stock Z, but not if its going to rub! If so, Id love to see a pic and know what tire size you are running, and if there is ANY rubbing. Thanks!

how much for the heat shield? i have an extra wire pig tail, but the mounting studs look broken on your assy? thanks.

Ive had pretty good luck so far finding parts.. theres a couple more parts needed. 240z early heatshield (70-71) Left turn signal assy (70-74) needs to be complete with good lens.. driver quality. MUST HAVE BOTH MOUNTING STUDS INTACT! email me at datjunky@gmail.com thanks! Jason

update.. a few guys have pulled thru with all the parts.. EXCEPT the early heat shield. so thanks guys, and if anyone has the early heat shield, let me know!

Hi, Im in need of the following parts. r200 mustache bar early heat shield (70/71) balance tube (or just the linkage piece that is held in by phillips screw) early trans shifter (72-78) 79-81 zx distributor (12-80 ign module) Please let me know what you have, price, and when you can ship. email me at datjunky@gmail.com thanks! Jason

well.. thanks for doing it. its helped. datjunky

thanks John.. i should have been in bed... not writing some rambling post last night. i understand now... i think. so those stub axles came out of an r200, and you used the half shafts from it too. and they just pop in.? OR i can you use cv axles from a zxt or z31? DO YOU want to sell or trade something for those stub axels? i dont have them, but i do have half shafts. i would prefer to use that set up vs cv's.. i think. STEEL CABLE... i like it. yes. cleaner. and i like "thingy". BTW.. thanks for posting those pics. datjunky

Thanks to both of you for responding to my post. sorry... it is a longnose r200, i presume from a 85-6 200sxt. and yes, that "thingy" is what im talking about. ive read some other posts, where guys were getting worked because of this thingy.. a couple of them removed it. it seems some diffs have it, others dont. and Jon, i did read most of your long post a few times. very educational for me. but correct me if im wrong.. but all i saw regarding a r200 swap in a early z was the list of parts needed (which im aware of) and reference to moving the diff back to correct halfshaft angles. i cant find anyone or any post of someone using this r200 w/4:11 in an early car. the diff strap/bracketry seems to be unanswered too. (at least find a good answer) and this "thingy" John Scott says i just use clip in style cv halfshafts.. which i would find off a zxt or z31, right? i know i need things spelled out for me a little more than a lot people on this site, as im fairly unfamiliar with the different diffs, applications, and hand on with them. i am familiar with z's in general though. i guess the biggest question for me is, CAN I MOUNT THIS DIFF NOW? even though i dont have the halfshafts. ill figure out the diff strap.. i think my idea of wrapping a chain around the end of diff nose, going around the cross member with a bolt holding the chain together seems like a perfect answer to the common diff mount problem.. it would effectively use the existing isolator mount but limit it from over torqueing it, and breaking. you would also get no vibration.. basically it would just save the mount from seperating. same idea as those guys in your post who put a bolt thru it. what do ya think? again, all i need (outside of the r200 swap parts list) to make this diff work in my car is cv style halfshafts from a zxt or z31.. right?? thanks guys. datjunky

ive reading a lot. im trying to put a r200 w/4:11 into my 70. ive read about a "thrust block" that interferes with the half shafts. this diff uses the cv style half shafts. and my diff does have the "thrust block" cant see thru it! 1) will 280 z half shafts work? or do i need zxt shafts? 2) do i need to remove this block? i dont think i want to open that can of worms. 3) do i need the brackets for the diff restrain belt from later car? im thinking about removing that all together and putting a chain around the diff and front mount.. any advice is helpful. i have spent hours reading about this. thanks.!