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kk240

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About kk240

  • Birthday 08/28/1979

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  1. I agree Nash I do believe a phone call is in order. My pedal pressure is normal, not a workout and not featherweight. That is what is so perplexing, well and that it just wont disengage.
  2. It's good to hear that I am not the only one with the same issue. I was wondering if it was possibly mispackaged from Zoom. That clutch is supposed to be compatible with a 93-97 camaro, the difference it that they use a different flywheel because they mount to a Gen 2 or 3 block, I forget, but nun the less not a Gen 1. You think that there was to much clamping force or maybe the arms were not fully retracting? Before I go and spend more money, what year pressure plate did you go with? You said stock but that is stock for a 93-97 camaro? Thanks for your help!!
  3. To start off...I've got: -Gen 1 block -93-97 LT1 T56 -Zoom clutch part# ZZZ-HP70043-1 and T/O bearing (that came with it)(Pull-Type) -Centerforce flywheel part# CTF-700107 -Ram Pilot bearing All comonents are brand new with 0 miles All hydraulics are good (no air and function normally) ***The problem is that I can not disengage the clutch to shift into any gear when the engine is running. All gears shift fine when the car is off. I've proven a couple things in the system. 1) I removed the aluminum housing that the slave attaches to and reinstalled the slave so there is an opening to look through. I started the car and had a friend press the clutch pedal. The arms on the clutch pull back like they are supposed to, however I am unsure about how far they are supposed to move. I am seeing about ~3/4" to ~1" of travel of the T/O bearing. 2) I manufactured an adjustable slave cylinder rod to "extend" the range of the clutch fork past the non adjustable slave rod normal length. I would adjust it out by 1/4" increments and press the clutch pedal again with the engine running and it would still not disengage. I eventually entended it to the point that the fork arm would come in contact with the clutch and I would then hear the not so sweet sound of metal on metal. And it still would not disengage. I am thinking that I either have the wrong T/O bearing, a stuck disc, incorrect fork (which also came with the tranny) or incorrect clutch. Any help would be appreciated!!!
  4. nazgule6, I used the JTR lower radiator mount with some urethane radiator supports, dropped it down about 3/4 in from the frame rails with some spacers and manufactured upper radiator supports using pieces from the old SU carb heat shield, hammered an angle on them then screwed them into the upper radiator cross section. The fit is great. There is about an 1/8 in opening on both sides of the radiator, but I really havent worried about that one yet. I heard very good things about griffin so I decided to go for it. No regrets and no modification necessary.
  5. Hey there, I used an aluminum from summit. It's a Griffin 24x19x3. P/N GRI-1-25202-X.
  6. Thanks Jay260! Is there a specific year flywheel for a Gen I block to a T56 bellhousing (ie. 93-97)? You said you used the Centerforce, how much better is the Centerforce over say a stock GM flywheel? I only ask because there is about a $150 difference between the 2. Oh and how does the steel flywheel make it more streetable? I had an aluminum in my last car and the only differences that I noticed were that it revved faster and it made a little more chatter than normal. The pedal effort was a little more as well. I've also heard that the life of an aluminum flwheel is not as great as a steel. Thanks again!
  7. Heres another question for ya, what was your reason for not using the centerforce flywheel with the stock LT1 clutch which would use the stock pull type bearing and would not require a bellhousing adapter? Since I found out the different routes to take I'm trying to utilize the parts I have now. Also do you know the size difference between a 168 and 153 tooth flywheel? I have a centerforce II that will bolt to a 168 tooth flywheel. I measured the disc plate end to end, is this the proper way to determine size of the clutch or is it by measuring the pressure plate? If in fact I do not have an 11" clutch in my possession then it really wouldn't matter which route I go because I will have to by all new components. How much do you think you spent on the flywheel, clutch, adapter, bearing and other misc. parts? I'm not necessarily aiming for the cheapest combination, just looking for reliability and ease of operation. I'd hate to get everything together just to have to have a bionic leg to operate it. Thanks again
  8. RSICARD: I appreciate all the help. Have you installed it yet? Is it an 11" clutch with a 153 tooth flywheel? Did you have any intentions of using a hydraulic throw out bearing? I heard that hydraulic was the way to go, any ideas?
  9. RSICARD: Where do you get the adapter? What flywheel and clutch are you using? Sorry for so many questions, I like to hear information from people that have had sucess with their combinations.
  10. Jay260Z thanks for the info I found it very usefull.
  11. RSICARD, I've heard about the adapter that you are installing but i've never seen one installed. When are you planning on installing yours? Could you post pictures when you are complete? Thanks again and good luck.
  12. To start off, I have a Gen I block that I am mating a '97 T56 to. I've read many of threads pertaining to this combination and I have still not quite found the answer I'm looking for. 1) Can I use the stock bellhousing with a 168 tooth flywheel or does it have to be a 153 tooth? 2) Does the clutch have to be from an LT1? If so is it in fact an 11in? 3) Which hydraulic throw out bearing should I use to maintain the existing slave cylinder mounting location? I know there are many combinations that would probably work. I'd appreciate any information along with what you have used and if it was sucessfull. I already have a 168 tooth flywheel and an 11in centerforce clutch. Physically looking at and attempting to mate the flywheel it seems that it will not work with the stock T56 bellhousing, which is why I believe that everyone is saying to use the 153 tooth. However if I could use another suitable (larger) bellhousing then that is one less item to purchase, I could just utilize everything that I have now, with the exception of the throw out bearing. I appreciate any help you are willing to offer up.
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