adivin
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Posts posted by adivin
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I'm running into the problem that others have had of tying to get the clutch to disengage without preloading the TO bearing on the PP. I can adjust the slave, but it I think it is putting constant pressure on the PP. It would seem using a taller collar puts me in the same situation as adjusting the slave. The solution would be more stroke from the slave. I currently have a 5/8 MC and I think a 11/16 slave.
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Time warp to present...
Can't the same thing be accomplished if you have an adjustable slave cylinder as getting a taller collar?
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1 hour ago, Mayolives said:
I'm not sure what your question ("situation") is. I have used the POR 15 fuel tank cleaning system 2 times and it worked great. If you followed the instructions and made sure the pick up plumbing was free and open, all should be well. What exactly are you having a problem with?
Well, the pick up plumbing is the problem. I suspect I have a partial blockage at the end of the pick up tube due to the sealer. I can still blow air through it, but I think it should flow a bit better. Of course there is no access to it. I was able to sneak a peak by snaking an inspection camera in there and I saw a glob of sealer on the end of the pick up tube. Essentially it's the same problem the original poster had. Perhaps all is well and I'm being paranoid.
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Crap, I think I am in this same situation now. Wondering what the best approach is. I should probably start conservatively with the stripper. If I have to cut the tank, what is the best approach for re-plumbing?
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4 hours ago, jhm said:
Put some miles on the springs before making any drastic changes. If you decide that you like them (other than ride height asthetics) for their progressive wind and overall spring rate, there are plenty of tips and techniques for raising or lowering the front or rear end 1/2" - 1" to even things out.
I agree, the car isn't running yet so I have no miles on the springs. I will see if they do. I was thinking of solid pillow mounts for the front as an option to lower front.
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55 minutes ago, madkaw said:
Damn,
I didn’t realize there was such bad Pooh about these . Purchased them for a customers car and wonder if I made a bad decision . When I searched I only found issues with ride height and that was installer error .
Well that makes two of us. MSA said the springs will settle and to give it time. We shall see.
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On 12/26/2020 at 7:36 PM, NewZed said:
This comes up so often that it might get overlooked - make sure you tighten the suspension components with the car on the ground if you loosened, removed, or replaced any bushings. The factory bushings provided some "spring" to the suspension.
And, because of that, if you wanted to get tricky, you could have a heavy friend sit on the front while you tighten the bushing bolts and nuts. The bushings will help hold it down. Edit - or you could lift the back while tightening. This is only an issue, and will only work, with the factory rubber bushings.
I replaced control arm bushings with poly. I did not tighten control arms with car on the ground. Is this required with poly bushings?
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10 minutes ago, Miles said:
But the coils are collapsed and touching with the car just sitting! Can't imagine that they offer any resistance at all when the car is moving dynamically over dips and bumps or when cornering.
This is seems to be common with progressive springs. They are called dead or helper springs. Keeps the springs in place when the rear is unloaded.
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On 12/26/2020 at 7:36 PM, NewZed said:
This comes up so often that it might get overlooked - make sure you tighten the suspension components with the car on the ground if you loosened, removed, or replaced any bushings. The factory bushings provided some "spring" to the suspension.
And, because of that, if you wanted to get tricky, you could have a heavy friend sit on the front while you tighten the bushing bolts and nuts. The bushings will help hold it down. Edit - or you could lift the back while tightening. This is only an issue, and will only work, with the factory rubber bushings.
I replaced control arm bushings with poly. I did not tighten control arms with car on the ground. Is this required with poly bushings?
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On 12/26/2020 at 5:30 PM, Miles said:
Examine the gaps between the coils on the front and rear springs. What do you see?
001 in front. 002 in rear
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On 12/26/2020 at 6:02 AM, madkaw said:
Did you replace your strut mounts ? If you did - did you put back in the 1/2” rubber spacer that was in the factory strut mount ? You have bearings up front and a rubber spacer in the back . It’s about the same thickness as the bearing .
Yep, spacer in the rear and bearings in the front.
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Rather than start a new thread, I'll revive this one. I am having the same issue with the front being higher than the rear after installing the Eibachs. I am using the new Konis made for the 240z from MSA. If my measurement is good, the fronts seems to be about 1/2" higher than rear measured from the rocker. I don't have a hood or radiator on at the moment. Some say it will settle over time. Some say it never did for them. I have 6305.001 in front and 6305.202 in rear. I wonder how the issue finally resolved for PCressey?
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11 minutes ago, grannyknot said:
You really should. Sometimes the Eibach springs can make the rear a little lower than the front, they did on my car so I had to install 1/2" spacers on top of the springs to level out the car.
I had the rear suspension ready to go in today, but forgot about bump stops...damn. Do you know exactly which Koni bump stops to get and a good source to purchase?
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Are bump stops needed in the rear? I also have the Eibach springs but with the new Koni struts.
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5 minutes ago, Miles said:
I did mine 14 years ago and experienced the same confusion. I bought a spindle pin puller from an Hybridz member and then did the whole suspension. The only sleeves I didn't remove were for the mustache bar bushings.
Some of the best posts about bushing replacement were made back in the early days of HybridZ.
Was the fitment good with your spindle bushings? Tight enough fit? I see that MSA can still get the OEM rubber spindle pin bushings. Something to think about.
How did you like going to urethane over stock bushings in general?
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5 hours ago, Miles said:
Here are some posts from other Z car sites:
https://www.zcar.com/threads/hacksaw-and-energy-suspension-bushing-installation.293838/
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/12008-rear-control-arm-bushings/
Miles, thanks for sending these links. Seems like the outer sleeve has to come out despite instructions to the contrary. I can't find any post from someone with first hand experience who even tried to put the bushings in with the outer sleeve.
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4 hours ago, NewZed said:
Just because many people did it that way does not mean that that is what Prothane intended. The material is elastic so will compress to fit in to the old sleeve.
What's really needed here is the guy that designed the bushing. Maybe he's still out there somewhere.
As far as MSA goes, I think that they are just passing on what Prothane told them, or even just what the written instructions say.
Ok, many people have done it by removing the outer sleeve. Are you playing devil's advocate here, or have you actually done this job and installed the urethane bushings with the sleeve in? I doubt it is possible from what I am seeing and reading. I want to hear from someone who has done it.
I cut the outer sleeves out today based on what my eyes were telling me and reading several post from people who have dealt with this issue previously. I can't find one post from someone who has done this with the outer sleeves in. If this is the case, it is very frustrating not to be able to rely on the info from the seller and manufacturer. After all these years they haven't bothered to verify and update the instructions!
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50 minutes ago, cgsheen said:
Good luck with that...
When you get yours in, send me a picture. I'll send you a picture of mine.
I think you're trying to tell me to cut that sleeve out. Honestly, I really don't see that bushing going in with that sleeve.
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19 minutes ago, NewZed said:
Is the edge of the bushing tapered? How will you get it started?
It will be interesting to see how the spindle pin fits through the compressed hole after it's installed. Does the pin fit the hole when the bushing is out?
Don't overlook that many of the bushings have polyurethane replacement options just because they can. Not necessarily because they're better. The rubber that's in the original bushing is very thin and probably sees little deflection under use. The thicker PU bushing might even deflect more than stock rubber under load. Less metal, more elastic material with PU.
The edge of the bushing is not tapered. I have no idea how I will get it started other than grease and a vice.
Yes, the pin does fit through the inner sleeve of the bushing with it out. It damn well better.
It's hard to believe this is so mysterious.
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I called Prothane and got tech support. They insist the outer sleeve stays in. Oh well...I will attempt it I guess.
45 minutes ago, cgsheen said:You should, the original outer metal piece of the stock bushing has to come out to fit either Prothane or Energy poly bushings. I've done several in the shop - it has to come out. I installed Energy poly in my personal 260Z (Goldie) nearly 10 years ago (and, yes, I cut that barrel out - with a sawzall (but, I'm careful) and, I daily drive my car)).
Please don't hit that with a hammer anymore.
This conflicting info is a real bummer. I wonder why MSA is saying this? They have used Prothane exclusively.
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24 minutes ago, cgsheen said:
You should, the original outer metal piece of the stock bushing has to come out to fit either Prothane or Energy poly bushings. I've done several in the shop - it has to come out. I installed Energy poly in my personal 260Z (Goldie) nearly 10 years ago (and, yes, I cut that barrel out - with a sawzall (but, I'm careful) and, I daily drive my car)).
Please don't hit that with a hammer anymore.
This conflicting info is a real bummer. I wonder why MSA is saying this? They have used Prothane exclusively.
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I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
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I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
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1 hour ago, NewZed said:
Yep, the quote in my original post is from the MSA page above. My point is that they look WAY oversized if that sleeve is to be retained. I'm doubting the accuracy of this statement.
Changing the slave for more pedal throw
in Drivetrain
Posted
Over the weekend I installed a new OEM (Nabco) 11/16 slave. It didn't make much difference. I made a few more turns on the MC by the pedal and it got it to where I can drive the car. I am almost at the end of adjustment there. Engagement is still really close to the floor. I don't know where to go from here. I suppose a larger MC like Wilwood perhaps would get me more travel at the slave? I might just adjust the slave more beyond the point that I should.