Jump to content
HybridZ

adivin

Members
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by adivin

  1. Over the weekend I installed a new OEM (Nabco) 11/16 slave. It didn't make much difference. I made a few more turns on the MC by the pedal and it got it to where I can drive the car. I am almost at the end of adjustment there. Engagement is still really close to the floor. I don't know where to go from here. I suppose a larger MC like Wilwood perhaps would get me more travel at the slave? I might just adjust the slave more beyond the point that I should.
  2. I'm running into the problem that others have had of tying to get the clutch to disengage without preloading the TO bearing on the PP. I can adjust the slave, but it I think it is putting constant pressure on the PP. It would seem using a taller collar puts me in the same situation as adjusting the slave. The solution would be more stroke from the slave. I currently have a 5/8 MC and I think a 11/16 slave.
  3. Time warp to present... Can't the same thing be accomplished if you have an adjustable slave cylinder as getting a taller collar?
  4. Well, the pick up plumbing is the problem. I suspect I have a partial blockage at the end of the pick up tube due to the sealer. I can still blow air through it, but I think it should flow a bit better. Of course there is no access to it. I was able to sneak a peak by snaking an inspection camera in there and I saw a glob of sealer on the end of the pick up tube. Essentially it's the same problem the original poster had. Perhaps all is well and I'm being paranoid.
  5. Crap, I think I am in this same situation now. Wondering what the best approach is. I should probably start conservatively with the stripper. If I have to cut the tank, what is the best approach for re-plumbing?
  6. I agree, the car isn't running yet so I have no miles on the springs. I will see if they do. I was thinking of solid pillow mounts for the front as an option to lower front.
  7. Well that makes two of us. MSA said the springs will settle and to give it time. We shall see.
  8. I replaced control arm bushings with poly. I did not tighten control arms with car on the ground. Is this required with poly bushings?
  9. This is seems to be common with progressive springs. They are called dead or helper springs. Keeps the springs in place when the rear is unloaded.
  10. I replaced control arm bushings with poly. I did not tighten control arms with car on the ground. Is this required with poly bushings?
  11. Rather than start a new thread, I'll revive this one. I am having the same issue with the front being higher than the rear after installing the Eibachs. I am using the new Konis made for the 240z from MSA. If my measurement is good, the fronts seems to be about 1/2" higher than rear measured from the rocker. I don't have a hood or radiator on at the moment. Some say it will settle over time. Some say it never did for them. I have 6305.001 in front and 6305.202 in rear. I wonder how the issue finally resolved for PCressey?
  12. I had the rear suspension ready to go in today, but forgot about bump stops...damn. Do you know exactly which Koni bump stops to get and a good source to purchase?
  13. Are bump stops needed in the rear? I also have the Eibach springs but with the new Koni struts.
  14. Was the fitment good with your spindle bushings? Tight enough fit? I see that MSA can still get the OEM rubber spindle pin bushings. Something to think about. How did you like going to urethane over stock bushings in general?
  15. Miles, thanks for sending these links. Seems like the outer sleeve has to come out despite instructions to the contrary. I can't find any post from someone with first hand experience who even tried to put the bushings in with the outer sleeve.
  16. Ok, many people have done it by removing the outer sleeve. Are you playing devil's advocate here, or have you actually done this job and installed the urethane bushings with the sleeve in? I doubt it is possible from what I am seeing and reading. I want to hear from someone who has done it. I cut the outer sleeves out today based on what my eyes were telling me and reading several post from people who have dealt with this issue previously. I can't find one post from someone who has done this with the outer sleeves in. If this is the case, it is very frustrating not to be able to rely on the info from the seller and manufacturer. After all these years they haven't bothered to verify and update the instructions!
  17. I think you're trying to tell me to cut that sleeve out. Honestly, I really don't see that bushing going in with that sleeve.
  18. The edge of the bushing is not tapered. I have no idea how I will get it started other than grease and a vice. Yes, the pin does fit through the inner sleeve of the bushing with it out. It damn well better. It's hard to believe this is so mysterious.
  19. I called Prothane and got tech support. They insist the outer sleeve stays in. Oh well...I will attempt it I guess. This conflicting info is a real bummer. I wonder why MSA is saying this? They have used Prothane exclusively.
  20. This conflicting info is a real bummer. I wonder why MSA is saying this? They have used Prothane exclusively.
  21. I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
  22. I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
  23. Yep, the quote in my original post is from the MSA page above. My point is that they look WAY oversized if that sleeve is to be retained. I'm doubting the accuracy of this statement.
×
×
  • Create New...