240ZinTN

It turns out I had a kink in the fuel supply line going to the fuel pump and this was causing the presure to fluctuate. My guess is this would also cause the injectors to not be able to keep up with the increased air flow when I opened the throttle. It runs even better now but I have not had time to remove the restrictor plate. I will try it this weekend and hopefully it will not be needed (and hopefully it will run even faster with better airflow). I did get a chance to drive last night and was able to smoke the tires in first and second and chirp in third without much effort. I can't wait to get it on the track and see what it will do in the quarter mile.

I don't have an A/F meter so I can't tell if I go lean when I blip throttle. I do know than it was running so rich that the exhaust was burning my eyes once it finally warmed up and I got the rpms over 3.5K. I would have to bounce the throttle, gradually increasing rpm and once it got up there it would run fine as long as rpm didnt drop below 3.5K. Once up there it would respond ok to changing throttle positions too.(?????) I plan on getting an A/F meter soon or borrow one.

I have been having a hard time getting my 240Z turbo conversion up and running. I did the Z31 MAF conversion and it would idle fine but would hesitate and stall out when I would rev the engine. I finally got it to rev by putting a "restrictor plate" in front of the MAF, reducing the intake area by half. Now it runs better than ever. Does anyone know why this would work? I have a K&N filter mounted to the MAF and located in the corner below the coil. From there it is a staight shot ( 3" diameter pipe about 12" long) to the turbo. I am not running an intercooler and have the stock set up from the J pipe back.I am only running about 18" of exhaust pipe after the downpipe so I know the exhaust flow is not restricted. I blocked off the EGR and got rid of the Air regulator to clean up the intake manifold (before I ever got the car running-not the best idea). Would this be a contributing factor? Why would my car need to breath worse to run better?

I will go over some obvious things first to clarify. Are you using the dizzy, coil and ignitor/transistor thing and ECU from the 83 also? If so have you checked the ignition 12v+ to the ignitor and to the coil?

Yes and thanks. It helped a lot and My CAS seems to be working ok. I could hear it clicking and it made my injectors fire and fuel pressure dropped with each fire. Now I am sure my injectors are working too. While I had the Dizzy out I double checked TDC at #1 and found out I had my dizzy connections shifted over by one spot. I moved them all by one clockwise and was able to get it started. I had to feather the throttle and could barely keep it going but thats still progress. I build some oil pressure and was able to find a leak in oil supply line too. I can't seem to keep the motor going or build any rpm. It just kind of sputters and chugs. I am still getting an error code for the CAS and one for Air flow sensor intermittently. So once again... back to triple checking all my connections and praying that when I set up the timing chain I wasn't a little off there too. Thanks again yo2001.

yo2001, Thanks for the help but I am not sure I understood what you meant by turn the dizzy. Do you mean rotate like when adjusting timing or rotate the engine to spin the dizzy?

I finally got my Z31 ECU to power up!!!! I danced a jig and the got back to work and then frustration set in again. I am getting error codes from the ECU now and it looks like my CAS isn't working right. I checked the CAS connections to the ECU and they check out ok. I also made sure I had the CAS wheel installed correctly. All I get when I try to start the car is a few sputters while cranking it and a little exhaust smoke so I know I am getting fuel and spark in there. Does anyone know of a way to test the signals comming from the CAS? Is it possible that the pick-up thingy that reads the wheel is bad? If so has anyone swapped the pick-up from an 83 Dizzy with a Z31 Dizzy pick-up?

My downpipe looks the same as the one pictured in this post. The casting # is 212C 02P. I am using a 4spd out of a 78 280Z and it looks to be a little bulkier that the auto I had in there 8 months ago. The closest point to the downpipe is where the block flares out on the side to bolt up to the trannny. The auto I have has less of a flange so you shoud be ok. You don't need a spacer just bolt it up to the stock ex manifold and torque it down before you put your intake manifold back on. Good luck.

I posted pics in the Hybrid Z gallery. There is at least 1/2 inch clearance at the closest place to the transmission. Go look - let me know what you think. Paul

I have an 84 z31 turbo in my 240Z and I am using the Z31 down pipe. I had to remove the waste gate and bracket and move it to the front of the turbine outlet so it would clear the intake manifold. This required cutting the metal rod and putting 2 90degree bends and welding on an extension to get it reconnected to the wastegate flapper on the Z31 downpipe. Total cost about $10 and ext rod and welded clamp availble from Lowes. It did take some fine tunning to get the right bends and distance on the extension. I will try to post some pictures if I can get enough light and my camera working. Stick with it and you can get it to work.

I have an 83 turbo harness I have been working on and might have some answers for you. The two wires you have near cyl head temp sensor sound like connections for the knock sensor(black and red wires on my car). The wires and "mystery sensor" in the thermostat housing sound like the thermotime switch for the cold start valve(yellow on mine) and water temp switch for aux cooling fan( white). This is the best I came up with after searching the red Haynes Manual p290 for 83ZXT , bottom left of page.

I checked all the power connections and they all seem to be ok. I even plugged in an 85 NA ECU and got the same results. It looks like I have something wired wrong or connected backwards on the EFI relay. My fuel pump does turn on when I turn the ignition even with the ECU not powering up which makes me think I may have misread or mixed up the FPR connection as well. I am so ready to get this car on the road again it kills me to go thru all these connections over again. I am having Z withdrawl. Thanks for the suggestions Afshin. I may still PM you about your extra 84 ECU if things don't work out.