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Zellthetunerr

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  1. I haven’t found info on this yet. But since I’m getting a programmable efi, I’d like to know which coils are internally ignited or ‘smart’ that I can find relatively easy at the junkyard (unless this is an absolute pipe dream and I’d be better off buying new ones). I will get Speeduino add a VR conditioner and use a VR sensor with a trigger wheel. Since its capable of wasted spark as a control method, hence no need for a module or a ford EDIS coil pack in specific for that matter, are there any smart coil on plug options other than the LS smart coils and AEM ones? Google sure doesn’t help and puts a trillion other things that don’t answer my question. Thanks again for your help. Zell
  2. @Michael I see your point. Id say the biggest reason is social media. 1000 hp engines are everywhere. car youtubers are getting massive attention and take advantage of that by promoting the most profitable companies. Really good EFI systems are required to get those kinds of numbers and the guys that promote them make money and so do the guys at the big EFI companies (Haltech, LINK ECU, etc.) So the biggest reason is fame/attention in turn - $$$$$ But there are companies like speeduino that try to make it easier for the diy guy that wants to get into tuning. Not expensive, but still has enough features to compete with the big boys. You may even like soldering, like the MegaSquirt DIY kit mentioned above or the Speeduino unassembled units. They're pretty cheap considering what they can do as for features. At the end of the day, its about research. I didn't know about speedy or MegaSquirt diy before I spent hours on the forums. Many things are so much clearer to me due to the crazy amount of information I've been able to read. So the diy guys with not much money just need to do a little digging like ye boi.
  3. @Zetsaz i have found a EMS company called SPEEDUINO or WTMTronics here in the U.S. . I can probably get an assembled unit from there and who knows about the VR conditioner to get the tach signal. But I CAN afford an assembled unit from there, but the only thing is the harness. They don’t come with one. It’s still a lot of work but a lot less than assembling the ECU PCB. Thanks a lot again.
  4. I DID find a P90 head for sale (and for really cheap 🤩) but it’s really far away and I’ve texted the guy and tried to contact him. Nothing…. That really sucked because it was used but it was cheap. so no worrying about the liners at all and a better cam for turbo. But since the guy doesn’t respond I guess I’ll have to either keep looking or make a trip to the local hardware store and get started.
  5. @rossman no, there isn’t much of a Z craze here where I live. Just a bunch of Hondas with loud exhausts, unfortunately. Me and my uncles are the only Z owners around town. Even if it was a better casting, it’s still a gamble I’m not willing to take. So I’ll find ways to remove them…. How has this affected your exhaust port flow/ flow performance? See any changes with or w/o liners?
  6. @madkaw @rossman All great responses, truly appreciated. Yes, I have seen that the exhaust port liners can come apart and go straight into the turbo. I will look more in depth on those videos that show the process of removing them. As for how much boost I’m running, it could be that I’m just a numbers addict and won’t know what it actually FEELS like to run 10 psi. My uncle has a 300zx z31 2+2 with a straight pipe. It sounds mean and is really fun to drive. I like to drive it but I KNOW that my car is going to be faster. 500 lbs less and a few more horses. Maybe I will try that before going crazy on boost. Thank you to all.
  7. @madkaw Yes, sorry about that but I will be running MegasQuirt with larger injectors. So pair that with everything I just mentioned.
  8. @NewZed. Thanks for the reply. So I CAN throw a 2mm head gasket and push boost/tune? Or is there a lot more to it than just that? According to the 'L series engine calculator' , I can lower the compression to ~ 7.8 if I use the 2mm head gasket. Which is pretty low, pair that with the head cooling system mod that I plan on installing from Godzilla Raceworks, aluminum radiator, Isuzu NPR intercooler, I should be good for the amount of boost that I'm pushing. Right? Maybe not, maybe I'm not searching the right topics. Anyways thanks for your .02
  9. Ok. Time to make myself sound stupid. I have a 1983 280zx N/A F54 + P79 and flat tops. Now, I plan to turbo this thing, but with the stock compression, it’s going to be detonating like crazy. A universal solution that a lot of people recommend is a 2mm head gasket from HKS. Others say that this will affect quench and make detonation worse instead of fixing it. And also people say to just get dished pistons from any L28ET and use the stock head gasket. But others say that this will ruin the quench/squish and not utilize the combustion chamber design of the P79/P90 properly. I have found bits of information here and there but nothing to clarify it completely to the point that I know the next step. it IS easier to get a turbo engine…. If you can find one. Which there isn’t one near me. I’ve tried looking. I need help clarifying what has worked as for running boost without detonation. My application is a street car that I can have fun with. Not a drag car. So I look to push 11-15 psi. Nothing too crazy but enough to have fun with. Thanks for all your help. I look forward to learning more…. Zell
  10. @Zetsaz Thanks for all the info. But I do like learning and building the car. Don’t get me wrong, the first drive will be amazing but soldering, getting the settings right for all the sensors, doing the actual tuning, modding/fabricating All of it seems really fun and interesting to me. I understand that it’s a lot of downtime, but the car is already on tons of downtime the way it is. I can’t see why not doing it. On the note of MS3, it’s great but I won’t use the FULL potential of it which is full sequential fuel and spark. Like I said this will be a fun weekend warrior that I can enjoy. This won’t be a drag car or a full on track build, if it was then yeah I’d go with MS3 full sequential spark and fuel.
  11. I’m also looking into removing the airflow meter and running MAP and IAT sensor instead of MAF. Still researching on it. But another thing to consider before buying it.
  12. @rvannly thanks for your response but my car already has months of downtime on the brakes, wheels, suspension, interior, fluids and chassis alone. The rust isn’t crazy but it’s not just surface rust either. Yeah I’m on board with the MS2 + Ford EDIS. I’ve seen people run them and get pretty good results for not too much money spent. Can I use just any EDIS-6 module and coil pack from any Ford with a V6? That’s my short term question as I’m on the lookout for them in my local junkyards. I’ve also seen people run Chrysler coil packs. I’ll do more research on that end. I wouldn’t doubt that the diy kits will take a lot of time but I’m up for it. I understand the time I’ll have to wait. Simply getting my car driving will take years. Haha, just an endless money pit. another short term question is if I can use a GM Hall sensor instead of a BMW? thanks again for your insights….
  13. I have a 1983 Datsun 280zx N/A P79 head. I want to turbo this thing so I am looking to get into MS2. I have heard that you need a turbo dizzy and also that you don't need one if you aren't going to run sequential EFI or Coil on Plug IGN. Neither of which I plan to run do due to the fact that I want 300 hp. I don't have huge injectors and I don't see the worth of going sequential efi. this isn't going to be a drag car. Its gonna be a fun weekend warrior car that I can enjoy. I know the cr is a bit high and I'm also on the look for a 2mm head gasket. So my question is if I actually need to do anything to the distributor to run MS2 on regular batch fire and non COP ignition. I don't see this topic yet but If I find it then I will delete this post since the info is already out there. Thanks again for your help, and I look forward to the project.
  14. Ok, I already have the manual downloaded and I did the tests a while back. What I found out is that there’s no continuity from the yellow wire in the harness from ignition switch to the starter. I can’t find where the break is though. I had an idea and I just ran a custom wire from ignition switch to the starter, then I just also attached one to the yellow wire so that the cold start valve would fire. It did, but the car dies after a few seconds of running. And I just did the same thing but the csv doesn’t fire no mo. So I need to find the problem....
  15. Hello all. I am the owner of a 1983 Datsun 280zx. Ive owned if for a little while but its been giving me many problems. It alternates in between the states of "runs for 3-4 seconds and then dies" or 'doesn't fire up at all". The efi system is petty complicated and Ive replaced many things like wires and the starter and more things of the sort. Ive tried real hard but I can't get it to run on E.F.I. .......... Ive been thinking extremely hard about switching to carbs but at the same time I want a bit of power out of this thing while I'm making the switch and buying parts. still deciding on whether to - stay Na, and fix the EFI and just get ITB's - stay NA, get triple Webers, cam and exhaust. - draw through turbocharging - blow through turbocharging - EFI turbocharging with mega squirt, T3, all turbo parts needed to tune. mainly looking for insight, past experiences or any tips or pricing on any of the sort. If needed, my expectations as for power for an NA are around 235hp, and the turbo is about 350hp. Budget is 2.5-3.5k Thanks.
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