juggernautjoee

They never gave me an answer to exactly what idle vacuum I should be getting. Just a suggestion to open the lash a bit. I do not have any EGR remnants. I've sealed off the EGR plate and the bottom is plugged. I've bumped up my advance to 25 degrees in the idle range and can get a steady 16in of vacuum now at the same RPM. But obviously that doesn't leave a lot of room for me to advance the ignition through the load ranges. I've got a set of home-made detcans that I've been using to detect pinging/detonation. I advanced the ignition at idle up from 25 and didn't notice any difference of vacuum, but did notice some stumbling around 30 degrees. I can live with the 16in of vacuum at idle if

I've got an l28et, P90A head swapped to solid lifters. 5 angle valve job. Dished pistons, so low compression. Cooling head mod. 440cc injectors. Stock 280zx throttle body and intake. Aeromotive FPR. Home-made detcans. MS3x COP AEM Wideband 2.5in downpipe into a 3in exhaust Cam is a Schneider 270-60F-14 degreed to what the cam card said (I think it said 108?). At cold start I get ~10in of vacuum. Once warmed up, the best I can get with ~850RPM idle is ~14in of vacuum. I talked to Schneider about this and they told me to open up the lash to .010 and .012 respectively. That improved my idle by 1-2in of vacuum. I know the cam might be causing the wideband to not give a true reading, but at warm idle it likes ~12.2-12.5:1 AFR to achieve a smooth albeit weak vacuum idle. I have checked for vacuum leaks everywhere. Totally removed the intake/exhaust manifold, purchased new gaskets and applied a very thin coat of rtv. I made sure the intake was flat with a very large bastard file. All ports have been plugged including pcv for testing. I put it all back together and got the exact same amount of vacuum. No change. I have verified with a timing gun, set to 2 stroke mode, cranking and idle ignition are lined up perfectly with what tunerstudio says. No drift. I've got my idle set to 20 degrees advanced. Does anyone else run a cam like this with a similar setup? I'm guessing I need more advance at idle, maybe 25-28. But I want to compare to someone who has a similar build, or has more experience than me. Specs of cam: Part Number: 17043 Grind Number: 270-60F-14 Intake Duration (gross): 270 Exhaust Duration (gross): 260 Intake Duration (.050”): 230 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 220 Intake Valve Lift*: .460" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .460" Lobe Separation: 114 Intake Valve Lash: .008" Exhaust Valve Lash: .010" RPM Range: 2200-6400

Found another RSX seat. It's not an exact match. The stitching pattern is different b/w the seats, and the plastic trim in the headrest area is a different color. Obviously I'm not going to fix the stitching, and I'll just paint those plastic trim pieces black and be done.

Got a deal on a used set of 240z taillight panels. So I sprung for some 240z taillights as well. I really like the look of those more. Just a few more pics.

Replaced quite a few things to try and track down the random shut-off problem I'm having. New ignition switch, new internally regulated alternator from a 99 Nissan pathfinder, and removed the seat belt interlock module in the engine bay (it was already removed from the relay under the dash). That seems to have done nothing lol. I think I'm still getting some random sync loss issues that I need to track down. But I did put some skillard door panels on, and put an Acura RSX seat in. That took a bit of cutting and welding on the seat side, as well some cheap ebay sliders.

Literally just needed to change one setting from rising edge to falling edge and we're good. Had to find another tooth angle after the change, but that's easy to do. The AEM wideband was fixed by just grounding the brown wire. Drove it down the road a bit and let the auto-tune hit some target AFR's. It's definitely running better. I've just got it using wastegate pressure for now. I can hear it spool and release, so the BOV and all that stuff are working fine. I noticed I'm sitting at 60-65kpa at idle. I know my Schneider stage II cam is probably the culprit. I also need to do a hot lash of the valves, as they're a bit noisy. Hopefully i don't have a vacuum leak'

Finally took it around for a drive. Wouldn't rev past 1700rpm. Sync losses like crazy. Guess I need to take some logs and spend some time on other forums looking for help. My wideband was working perfectly fine for awhile, then it started sending out a full 5v or more. The AFR on the gauge itself seemed accurate, but the output was just sending 5v constantly. Tried changing grounds, etc.. but no change. I think it's dead. I'll try swapping out for a new one.

It's been awhile. A lot of back and forth with Godzilla to figure out what was going on with my ECU. RPM signal was not coming through. A 10k resistor was the culprit. Got everything hooked back up, configured some base settings and it finally fired up. First time in almost 2yrs. That's exhaust smoke in the picture. I really need to get it turned around so I can run it for longer to tune this thing. It smokes like crazy right now lol. Probably doesn't help that I have flex pipes and random loose clamps holding the exhaust together as well. It runs like shit, and I need to hold the throttle down a bit to keep it going, but it's a start. I can't wait to start digging into tuning and learn this stuff.

Getting very close now. Just need to run another vacuum line, hook up the crank vent to pcv in the intake, get the small braille battery hold down, and we should be able to fire it up. I've just got the turbo open to the air right now. I need to mock up some kind of filter/intake tube. I might just buy some cheap chinese universal one and cut it up to fit. I'm emailing around my area (northern KY/Cincinnati) to tuning shops to see if anyone would want to help take this on. But so far I'm not getting many favorable responses. Does anyone have any recommendations on someone who has MS tuning knowledge that can do it remotely?

Thanks man! Just another quick update. Got a used black hks bov for a good price. Ran a few more lines and tested the fuel system. No leaks! I wouldn't have believed all those AN lines I made actually worked lol. I let it run off a battery for a minute or two. The FPR was showing ~45psi at the return line. Now I'm debating on going with protunerz or godzilla for my ecu. I want to go with ls coils and a CAS for sure.

Getting a bit farther. Buying more an fittings and various other things to get it buttoned up. Got a used black hks bov on the way

Cooling head mod finally came in. Getting that installed over the next few days. Then it's going to be putting the manifolds back on, finishing up the few more AN lines for fuel feed & return, finding a BOV, then purchasing and installing the MS system.

Fuel lines and pump done. Waiting on the cooling head mod kit from godzilla raceworks, then I'll be able to put the engine bay back together. Decided to put a front air dam on. Now I feel like it really needs a bumper to help fill that area out. Not sure if I want to go chrome, raw aluminum, black fiberglass... or what. I feel like chrome or raw aluminum would look good with those konigs, but not sure.

This is how I think I'm going to do it. I've got it semi-mocked up/semi-installed. Some of the lines are really short, but I guess that's not necessarily a bad thing. I know these electric pumps are better at pushing than pulling, so I tried to keep it short as possible.

While the trans is out, decided to run some actual hardline 3/8in from front to rear. The FPR is probably in a bad spot near the heater hoses, but i don't plan on running heat right now anyways. I'll move it later if I decide to. Right now I've just got a right angle AN fitting on the bottom of the drain plug for the fuel tank. Need to figure out a layout for a pre-filter and pump back under there. Not a whole lot of room to work with.