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About juggernautjoee

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    Covington, KY

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  1. Nice. Well that'll save me a couple hundred bucks. I assume this also applies to headers as well?
  2. So here is the news. Cylinder 5 exhaust valve has a hole right on the edge of the valve seat. I would say it could be repairable, but that location doesn't seem like a great spot. The water jacket holes were pretty clogged up. But after popping out the freeze plugs and flushing it out with a hose, it's pretty clean now. The head gasket itself looked decent. I couldn't tell where it was torn, or had any soot build up where it could be leaking. So now I'm in the dilemma of finding a head for this thing. I know the shaved P90 is the best, but they're b
  3. Thanks @A to Z. You're taking us to school with all this learning. Yeah I was planning on plugging up those ports for sure. My 83 S10 had these exact same things on the exhaust manifolds. We'll see if I get lucky and they come out with little work. If they don't, and the plan is still to keep this motor, I would also consider finding some headers. But that all depends on what I see once I get this head off. And when it comes to head work, I've got a message out to someone selling a P90 head. I'm 99% sure I have dished pistons, so I'd be taking that thing to a mach
  4. Well that was one of the easiest tear downs I've done. Took maybe 1.5hrs taking pictures along the way. Nothing really gave me any trouble. In fact, some of the intake and exhaust manifold bolts were finger tight. Even the nuts holding the exhaust pipe on were easy as pie. I've never had that happen before lol. There may have been 1 or 2 intake manifold fasteners missing. I guess it was a good thing I tore the down a bit. I did have to use an angled mirror to find a hidden intake manifold bolt back near cylinder #5. But after that, the rest was cake. Hopefully this doesn't
  5. Thanks @Noll. I took a look at - I'll be setting the engine at TDC, marking chain and sprocket points. And taking pictures of where everything lines up. Already got a timing chain holding wedge coming, and a head gasket. I'm gonna hold off on some of the extra stuff like arp studs, intake/exhaust gaskets, etc... Until I get this thing torn down to inspect.
  6. No need to do a compression test. I filled the radiator full of cheap coolant last night. Took the #5 spark plug out this afternoon and water was completely filled in the cylinder. Guess I get to tear down to the short block now. Crossing my fingers that it's just a bad head gasket. If it's a cracked head, then I guess I'll see what my options are there. Shaved P90, etc... If it's a cracked block, then it's time for an LS
  7. I took each spark plug out with the wire attached, set it down where the threads could ground, and we got spark on all 6. It's a bit intermittent and weak. So I'll start with the cheap cap/rotor combo first. Even when I spray starting fluid down the carbs, it's not enough to get it running. It maybe tries to fire 1 cylinder every 3-4 seconds of cranking. One thing that may be opening a large can of worms is.. When I had cylinder 5 open and cranking, some water sprayed out. Not a huge amount, but enough for me to notice. I also saw a pool of water out the backside of the tai
  8. Got the electric pump wired up. After finding multiple leaks and tightening them up, we've got fuel to the carbs now. My garage is gonna smell like gas for a month, but oh well. New spark plugs, egr deleted, capped off all the open vacuum ports I could find. New small fuel lines from bowl to jet. New filters in the banjo fittings in the float bowl. But now the car won't start. I know that's my own fault for changing a thousand things simultaneously. But the way the weather is around here, I have to cram in as much stuff as I can in one day. I can squ
  9. Did a few things today before the weather turns. Changed the oil. I went with some 15w-40 rotella heavy duty diesel oil. I couldn't find any good high-zinc in a 10w. I know this oil has a good amount of zinc and other dinosaurs/vitamins that these flat tappet motors want. It might be a little thick, but it's not going to hurt anything right now. The old oil didn't smell like gas, so hopefully that's a good sign. Rebuilt the carbs. The carb closest to the firewall was very gummed up. The jet was completed clogged. After cleaning them both up, spraying out everythi
  10. Wow, thanks a lot Noll. That diagram helps a ton. I'm going to eventually replace the external regulating alt for an internal one, so I might as well run a new harness/relay for the fuel pump. Once I remove that voltage regulator, I'll trace the wires back and remove the relays and such to clean things up. I'm going to loosely follow this - http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html I've done the same thing when I had to switch from a manual to electric fuel pump in my 83 S10 when I did a 2.8L -> 3.4L swap. It's a
  11. I guess my wording wasn't good. Both pumps test fine when hooked directly to the battery. I'm not getting 12v with a volt meter from the hot wire when cranking or running (I can get it running by filling the bowls manually for ~40 seconds). So something in the wiring/relays is bad. Thanks NewZed for that manual. That'll help me track it down. Looks like the 260 should be using the alternator RPM as the kill-switch. I wonder if my alt is bad, this would cause this issue.
  12. Tank was flushed with acetone. New sending unit installed. New battery cables and spark plug wires. I threw some rust reformer on the tank and straps and then hit the tank with some gloss black. I threw in some new rubber lines back there. Then came the electric pump install. I'm not getting 12v when on or cranking. New pump works fine when tested. Even the old pump worked (but sounded terrible). I did some research and it looks like the 260z electric pump wiring goes through some relay and it either uses the oil pressure switch as a cutoff, or somet
  13. Agreed. Getting the car on the road needs to happen first. I may discover some other issues that need to be addressed once I'm driving it.
  14. Honestly not sure yet. I'm going to be pretty flexible on what my plans are. If I find a good deal on parts to slap on the L28 (p90 head, headers, megasquirt and triple webers) for cheap, I'll go that route. If I find a good deal on an LS near me, and the L28 is boring me, I'll do that. Most likely I'll just keep the L28 until I've at least got the interior in good shape, then I'll start looking for parts or an LS.
  15. Thanks for the heads up. Since the inside looks pretty good to me, I might just flush it with some acetone and be done with it.
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