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Welp, maybe my OEM stub axles can't handle much more. After a deep clean, I can see what I assume is micro cracks around the studs. Interestingly, with a scotchbrite the crack does seem to visually disappear.. Is it possible it's surface level or best to assume these are on their way out?

Appreciate that feedback, I'll likely end up using some parts from both Futo and Silvermine. One of my half shafts doesn't pivot smoothly and I desperately need new wheels/tires. So putting the money towards a beefier solution (with 5 lugs too) is tempting.. Of course aftermarket is always a risk too, I have a bad taste in my mouth after attempting the Apex rear solution.

I’m looking into the full FutoFab axle solution with a STi R180. Anyone running Futofab axles or outer stubs and have any thoughts/feedback? I noticed the outer/wheel stub axle by FutoFab looks slightly different than the OEM or the Silvermine one. Does anyone know why the OEM/Silvermine stub axles are narrowed in the middle (where the spacer rests)? I have a 280z and targeting 300-400hp (street/autocross, no drag/slicks), which I think stock 280z stubs can handle, but I’m mostly interested in getting 5-lug wheel options and I’ve seen some reports of old stub axles breaking due to wear/tear and abuse. FutoFab axle w/stubs: https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=217:futofab-high-performance-930-cv-axle-system-for-datsun-240260280z-s30-1970-78&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122 Silvermine stubs: https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/5-lug-conversion-rear-hub-stub-axles-for-240z-260z-280z-4-and-5-lug-custom-billet-stub-shafts

Read my mind, coilovers are on the way. Thanks for the info

I wouldn't plan on ever going past 500hp. Likely staying 400hp or lower on initial build. I'm unsure if the the taller gears would be optimized for that power on the drag/track, but road drive-ability is #1 concern. I know you've seen some crazy builds @Invincibleextremes - is low/moderate hp levels considered 400hp in your book? For your kit, is notching/cutting the beam required to fit the mustang diff? I'm having trouble finding pics/info on how this notching is done well for the larger differentials.

Yes, lots of factors for sure. And I have a ton of questions but figured I'd start here at the rear end. Expect to see more threads from me 🙃 As for the final drive, I was actually hoping to have taller differential gearing, like a 3.36 with the goal of highway drive-ability assuming I matched up with a CD009 or s2000 6spd. I'm just learning about planning out the gearing - is this a bad plan? Do you recommend the shorter gearing mostly for the acceleration benefit and maybe paired with a 5 speed to keep on boost for longer?

Thanks @rturbo 930 - I hadn't considered those axles, maybe I'll give Z Car a call as well and see if they are seeing stub shafts fail on any of their installations.

Thanks for the input. It'd be a manual transmission and mostly mild driving. But I'm sure one pull in spirited driving could break things. My largest concern with leaving the rear end stock for the engine swap is having to spend the time/money to fix the current old items (mustache bar bushings, differential bushings, probably new wheel bearings, eventually coilovers) then to snap a U joint as soon as it gets on the dyno. Which would mean rebuilding the rear-end and basically undoing the work I put in already. Obviously we can't predict the future and the life of my current parts but if nobody is saying "oh your stock setup should be fine" I'm leaning towards just doing the full upgrade - super 8.8/ApexEngineering/T3 to prevent redundant labor

Hi All, I'm fairly new here but I've had a 1978 280Z for a few years now. I'm looking for some guidance on a build in which I'm targeting 350-400 whp with similar ft-lb torque (leaning towards a turbo K24). This will mostly be a street car, maybe occasional track time but no drag racing. I've read and searched a ton of threads on here about the known weak points in the drivetrain: the stub shafts and U joints, but it seems peoples experiences vary wildly: Some people seem to have failing U joints with even stock cars. Many appear to upgrade to weld-on adapters with 300zxt CVs with just stock power but have some of issues with fitment and binding Others seem to be running decent hp swaps on OEM 280Z half shafts and stub axles without issue somehow The options as I understand them are: Trying the "plug-n-play" CV axle like that offered by T3 and others: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/long-nose-r180r200-cv-axles-240260280z Weld on CV conversion w/300zxt axles Leaving it stock until something breaks Upgrading to a full rear end kit by Apex Engineering or T3, swapping the diff out (https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p63/Rear_Suspension_Kit.html) The Apex Engineering or T3 kit may be overkill (and it's expensive) but has the benefit of getting me easily to a 5 lug conversion, new bushings/bearings, and I'd expect some increase in rear end rigidity. I spoke with T3 about their plug-n-play CV axles and they stuck to the "don't use it over 250-300hp". Which makes me wonder if all of the options that keep the OEM stub shafts (i.e. options 1-3) will fail prematurely. Does anyone have experience with any of these options on vehicles in the range of 400whp/ft-lb and have any recommendations? Is it the smallest headache to fork over the money for a full rear end conversion kit or complete overkill?