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Flak

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  1. Good news, thanks to everyone here (especially NewZed) I got my engine to start. That led to me figuring out I needed new injectors and a radiator. Fast forward to today, injectors and radiator are installed, but my fuel pump and turn signals/hazards don't work now. What happens is, the fuel pump will run every once in awhile, then when I try a turn signal, it all just shuts off. Then the pump won't run and the pump relay doesn't click anymore when key is in on position. My turn signals/hazards don't seem to work on their own anymore either. I thought it was a battery charge/load issue, but I'm at 12.77v. I also rechecked all the engine grounds, and they all seemed fine, but I redid them anyway. My fuses are all good, and my fusible links are good too. The EFI fusible link has 12v. The fuel pump also runs when I power it directly. I'm thinking it still might be a ground issue? Maybe my fuel pump relay itself?
  2. Thanks again for the help NewZed, you're a God send. Are the injectors not supposed to be grounded? The only ground I have near them is the one that goes on the top of the intake manifold that is circled in the pic. Also, the leak was coming from the top of the injectors if that makes a difference between stuck open and actually leaking.
  3. You're all probably all tired of my use of this section, lol. This is my first car, so I'm a pretty inexperienced mechanic. Good news though, I tried starting my Z today. It cranked, but didn't start. I did not have any fuel pressure due to an injector leak out of my ProTunerz fuel rail. I cranked it for a total of about 10-15 times, about 5-10 seconds each before I realized the injectors were leaking and I had no fuel pressure. One mechanic friend I have said that flooded sparkplugs/engine could be disastrous. Another guy from a shop nearby said that it was fine, and that the exhaust would just have black smoke from the extra fuel. My question is: Am I ok to just fix the leak and continue to try to start it? Or do I have to somehow drain sparkplug area? Thanks in advance, Flak
  4. EDIT: I found what I was looking for.
  5. Thanks for all the help recently NewZed. I'll look at the fsm for the distributor vacuum stuff. Thankfully the pcv hose is still under the tb, but I'll have to reinstall the distributor vacuum stuff.
  6. Roger that. I'll reinstall the heat stuff, I'll need it. Thanks
  7. I do have the fsm. My problem is that the p/o ripped out EVERYTHING. So I literally have 0 vacuum anywhere, I believe. I currently don't have vacuum to the FPR. Would I just route a vacuum line from the TB to that port on the FPR? I also don't have the a/c in right now, but I believe you are talking about the fast idle actuator. I do plan on reinstalling that when I get to the a/c reinstall, probably next summer, but I wouldn't imagine that is needed to run it without ac? Maybe needed for heat too?
  8. Hello all, and before you anything is said, I have used the search engine on this site a little too much on the topic of vacuum deletes. I had almost awakened my beast from it's slumber. Attached are photos of the bay. It is a 1978 280z. The p/o of my car was making a "racecar.". Therefore, he ripped out all of the a/c components and all of the vapor/vacuum stuff. I plan on daily driving this car here is PA. I do plan on putting a/c back in, so I know I need to put back in the vacuum "water bottle" and solenoids on the pass. fender near the links. My main question is, however: am I good to start her up with the stuff I have capped/deleted? I have read many posts about egr delete, csv/aar delete (although I may need that back for pa winters), and the charcoal canister delete. Although, I have been reading up on a pcv (?) Valve that I couldn't find much info on. I would love any insight if I missed anything or need to reinstall any vacuum components to daily drive it with the best health of the car. Hopefully this is specific enough and not just another, "what vacuum components can I delete" post. Thanks in advance guys, these forums have been a lifesaver to a new mechanic like me.
  9. Thank you for explaining, and sorry for all the questions. I Have that exactly battery cable you sent. I was going to splice 2 of those green fusible links into one, then go to that yellow "bullet connector" pigtail on the battery cable. Although that seems like a lot of work if they don't have to go into 1 wire. I'll look for something like the ideas you suggested, that have "spade" ends to going into the fusible links, no soldering necessary. Thanks again for the help.
  10. Not sure what you're saying here? I need the red wire? Are you just stating a discrepancy in Blue's chart? Does size correspond to wire guage?
  11. Hello all, attached is a pic from Blue's tips. I am jerry rigging my own EFI fusible link wiring because you can't find them anymore. Looking at getting 2 green fusible link wires, splicing them together, then bullet connectoring them to the positive battery terminal cable. I have the amperage in this pic, I just need to know what gauge wire/bullet connector to get for 40 amps. Thanks
  12. Not completely sure. Just got this 1978 280z as my first car a few weeks ago and learning what the p/o deleted/had missing. I know I put both linkages on that plug I'm holding, but how will I connect them to the battery? Do I just get a fusible link cable with the round head to go to the terminal that sits under the negative battery cable, or do I get a positive battery cable with a pigtail to connect into if I splice the links into a bullet connector end? Thanks for the help so far btw , Kinda just throwing myself into the wrenching.
  13. Actually, are you able to link the green connector I need if you found it? I can't find anything like it? Is it just like the normal fusible link connectors with the prong cover on each side?
  14. Thank you, I'll look online for those green connections.
  15. Just need some clarification on the wire that is being held. It doesn't look like it attaches to the fuse relays. Also, do I need special battery cables? The wiring diagram says that the battery connects to the fusible links, but I'm not sure how they do.
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