vrmilionzx

You've got a PM!

I've not checked the valve lash yet since the break in drive. The shop that had it said they did, but I think after the last 70 miles or so it wouldn't be bad to re-verify that everything is where it should be. Nothing wrong with triple checking, I'd really like my engine to last (and not trash my cam)!

Hey Leon, Thanks for the reply! Pic attached for attention - you can probably figure out which are before vs after . The interior isn't all there yet, so not sharing that mess, still troubleshooting some stuff inside. Now that the alignment is done, I'm not opposed to bringing it down your way. Still working on break-in miles (it's at 78 total), so not trying to do any LONG drives just yet, but that might be manageable. Just have to figure out timing, and tooling. I don't have an empi style vacuum tester just yet, do you? I'll also be at Cars and Coffee (Vintage Oaks) and Pre-Stage (Marin Civic Center) in September, if anyone will be there! Robert

Hi All, I have been restomodding my very first Z (early 260), and probably did things way out of order. Got the car (rusty, needed work, half disassembled but told the engine would run, gas tank in the hatch, no airbox, etc) and it went straight into body and motor work/build. I wish I had gotten it running first, to appreciate how it ran and handled, but the rust gave me pause, so I went the full resto route first. All that said, this is not my first engine build, but my first L series and first car with carbs. Now that it's done, I need to work out what's keeping it from running better. The motor is a frankensteined together L28 (F54 block, N47 head), roughly 9.2:1 CR based on (Priddy - Cometic) head gasket and (flat top) piston combo. Steve Bonk stage 1 cam, stock hitachi/SU carbs (rebuilt with SM needles and rebuild kit from ZTherapy), cleaned up balance tube with N36 intake manifolds. Early 280zx close ratio 5sp trans,3.9 R200 rear end, stock (l28 appropriate) clutch/flywheel combo. The shop that did the body/resto work dropped the motor in, and got it running, but it I'm pretty sure it should be running a lot differently (read: better). It's idling around 5-600 rpms, lumpy, and feels pretty underpowered considering it's a light car with a modded L28. Did the break in drive in which I didn't take it over 5k RPMs, ran it decently hard with solid acceleration and engine braking across gears to seal the rings, did the oil first oil change, and all that jazz. This is where you come in - I'm hoping that someone here who knows the L series is up for a half day of walking me through confirming that the (mechanical) timing is set right (the easy part, I've done this with my other cars but appreciate a second set of eyes), then wants to help me make sure I don't do anything stupid trying to set the idle and balance the carbs. Looking to learn from one of you gurus so I'm not messing up a fresh motor in a fresh car. Anyone in the Bay Area want to come to Novato and help me out in exchange for beer, lunch, and the opportunity to mock me while you help me learn this motor? Thanks in advance! Robert

Fairly new to S30 life, so my apologies for any gaps in my knowledge; I've been lurking for awhile now to get up to speed. Recently picked up some 87mm ITM pistons for a rebuild for my '74 260. F54 block, N47 head (assuming the machine shop blesses it), with the right HG I will be targeting about 9.5:1 compression. Nothing too crazy, keeping it N/A and making some small tweaks for efficiency and fun, not going to break 200 hp. It's going to be a weekend and occasional road trip car - goals are a reliable, fun street build that MIGHT occasionally see a track day (but I wouldn't count on it). I've seen a host of older posts about ITM rings not being great, and Total Seal was recommended. The thing is, both Total Seal and ITM (based on the limited info I've been able to track down) seem to have iron rings. The ITM rings have some shiny coating (chromoly?) on the (outer) faces. So, since all of the posts I've found about ITM rings being 'not great' and suggestions to get Total Seal instead are in the 10+ year old category, I'm wondering if anyone has any recent experience or can make recommendations either between these two, or for a third option for good reliable rings.

Hello! Does anyone have a recommendation for a good welder/shop that can replace my floorpans? I've called a few, and I seem to be running into a lot of "we're booked for at least a year out" and "we don't do that level of work anymore" responses. I'm hesitant to go to just any shop that says "yeah, bring it by, we can do it" without any sort of visibility into what they've done in the past - don't want my new (to me) car to be ruined because someone was afraid to say they didn't know how to do it the right way. I'm in the north bay, but I can tow to east or south bay as needed; finding a good shop is more important than finding a cheap or close one. Thanks in advance!