GodZilla
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Posts posted by GodZilla
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A few more professional pictures and a little write up. Enjoy
http://www.unfinishedman.com/unfinished-man-1974-datsun-260z-rb25det#more-3969
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Haha, nice man. I only get approached by guys like GodZilla
But...that means more money for the Z
You get approached by guys like me? Or same as my situation? Haha
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Sweet!! My Z has been on the road only for a few weeks now after my RB swap and I've only been approached by guys so far. lol
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Nice photos, looks like a decent 20 footer.
Bodywork and paint are coming in spring of 2011. I've spent enough this year on the RB swap and driveline. I'll probably get rid of it after 2 to 3 years of driving it.
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Looks great! What kind of airdam do you have on the front?
To be honest, no idea! I believe it's a modified MSA air dam but not too sure.
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My brother took my car (260Z) out before it went back to the shop for work on the suspension and brakes. The other car is a right hand drive 1993 RX-7.
Yes, I need a new gas cap or need to seal the rubber on the cap. Right now, rubber seal comes off 100%
You can sort of notice the camber on it.
More to come once the car gets all the problems worked out. The RX7 is putting out about 300 HP. And yes, my 260Z did beat it in the one and only race they had. And that was with the unbalanced driveshaft in the 260Z. When you accelerate hard, the whole car shakes. That's being figured out as well.
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From what they told me, I think they by-passed the proportioning valve to the rear. I'm not sure if the proportioning valve controls front and rear.
Would an after market proportioning valve, say like a wilwood, help my cause. Rather than running the factory setup, remove it and put in the Wilwood valve??
Neither the front nor rears are locking up. Upon closer inspection of the rear brakes, it seems that the rear brake pads are barely touching the discs. I can still see the swirl marks from when they were brand new. I wish I had some kind of lock up but there's none.
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Not impressed with my brake upgrade at all. The shop that is taking care of my project also did the brakes. I got Toyota 4 piston calipers and new rotors up front. And Nissan 240SX calipers in the rear. They used a Wilwood Brake Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and they by passed the stock proportioning valve.
The car freaking brakes like a TRAIN!! Any tips on how to fix the issue? Even if we wanted to lock up the brakes, absolutely no way in hell we could. We got to drive it this last Friday for the first time with an RB25DET in it. It hauls ass but I would actually consider it a road safety hazard with the current setup. Even with down shifting, it's terrible braking. I actually refuse to drive it on the streets. If anybody has any suggestions, please let me know.
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I'm having similar issues to yours. The shop that did my car didn't do the suspension as it was meant to be. I used the Techno Toy "weld on coilovers". Instead of the shop cutting the perch and welding the sleeves on, they cut the sleeves shorter and put the springs on top of the perch. So I had to order 2" shorter springs which now means I have less travel. I'm using the Koni Special D's coilovers. The ride feels just fine but going over man holes, the struts bottom out really easily. I don't know if increasing the ride height might help.
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I work with a friend and he came up with this list below regarding our boss. These are all true from our work place. Go ahead and add to the list.
1. Your boss has no concept of time. Tasks that any sane person would allot weeks to complete are expected to be finished in days.
2. Your boss constantly complains about money while living in a multi-million dollar house, driving a Mercedes SL500.
3. Your boss spends over $3000/month just on wine.
4. Your boss thinks that calling retail customers who ordered through the company website will generate additional sales.
5. Your boss uses terms like “work the Google more†when planning marketing strategies.
6. Your boss uses magic numbers. If you find 10 customers, and they each spend $500, and they tell 10 of their friends…
7. Your boss hires only those willing to work for the least amount of money, even if they are grossly unsuited to the job.
8. Your boss asks you to do something, and then gets angry when you do it.
9. Your boss gets angry when you get sick or have a doctors appointment
10. Your boss thinks that everything is a conspiracy, including microwave ovens.
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Well, I sold the thing for $1200 as a whole package. Would have liked a bit more but the same day I sold him my stuff, he also bought another L28, triple webbers, and 4 speed for $500 as a package. Oh well, parting it out would have been too much of a hassle for me.
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the valve cover is worth like $200, engine $350, carbs $1000, trans $100..
So you should at least try to get like $1600, AT LEAST.
Even if some of the pistons had low compression?
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I think I'm going to get rid of this for $1400
Somebody will be looking at it today. (Unless somebody makes me a better offer locally). The engine has been posted and re-posted on Craigslist since I started this thread.I'm in no rush for the funds but don't have a place to store it after my car is done which is pretty much any day now.
One of the reasons for the price drop is the low compression results which I was not aware of.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rch/pts/1801115948.html
Quote from my Craigslist Post:
Even with the lower compression test results, the motor runs amazingly smooth. Even smoother if you were to fix the washed rings. The "Washed Rings" is what is causing the lower compression in some of the cylinders. Cylinder #2 has the lowest compression at 70 psi while the best Cylinder is #6 at 190psi which is really good. Cylinder #5 was 80psi but when gear oil was poured down the cylinder, the compression increased to 140psi which would indicate that the rings are washed on the motor. The cause of this washed rings is because the carbs are probably running a little rich and need to be adjusted. Having a motor that runs too rich can shorten the life of the rings as it appears to have done so in my motor. In order to fix it, you have to re-ring it and is not a big deal.Even though I didn't notice the compression until the engine was out of the car, the car performed amazing well and I would never have guessed it.
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Well, somebody possibly got one heck of a deal.
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Just a heads up for the Portland area people. Looks like a pretty good deal to me. No mention of the important issue though (hidden rust).
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I know this is a VG swap but not sure which exact VG it is
http://riseautosalon.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=9:project-datsun-280z-update
I can take lots of pictures of it if you want. You can also check the gallery on that site to see a few more pictures of it.
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Why don't you guys call up 18Racing.com. Maybe they can get them in as well?? I know they carry the RB-R's in other sizes and that's where I got mine from. I got the 17x8.5. The sizes you want are not listed but you never know until you contact them.
From their site:
e-mail: sales@18racing.com (reply less than 24 hours)Phone:(925) 339-3828 (10am to 8pm PST)
Aim: eighteenracing
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Here is the current stance of the car in the front and rear.
I spoke to Gabe over at Techno Toy Tuning. He's going to send me 2" shorter springs and they are going to play around with that.
Below is sneak peek of what's happening in the engine bay. Getting very very close.
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I'll stop by the shop tomorrow and take updated pictures and point out what has been stated here.
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The shop that is currently working on my engine swap is pretty much taking care of all aspects of the car. I bought Techno Toy Tuning coilovers and I'm using the Koni adjustable struts. Gabe from Techno Toy suggested we go with 200/225 spring rates. I've attached a few pictures below. I think the shop forgot about the 4 rings that were provided for welding purposes. What can be done so the car sits lower? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks for the help fellas.
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So my car is about 2 weeks away from being completed (RB25DET engine swap, new suspension, bushings, frame, rear end, interior, roll bar, etc.) It's almost ready for a paint job. I've been told that I should order another spoiler because there is a little bit of rust under the fiberglass. They don't know how deep the rust is. When I bought the car 2 and half years ago, it was described as "molded Ureflex spoiler". I really like the way it looks and I don't really know that it's necessary to remove the whole thing and re-mold another one. I don't know much about this sort of thing.
1) If I am to re-order it, which spoiler is it? (I think it might be the MSA Victory spoiler)??
2) Is it really necessary to buy a new one or can they work with this?
Note: With all the work that the shop has done on the car since April 2010, they say the car has so far been about 95% rust free. Frames and floor pans have been solid. Under the car, there was very very minimal surface rust near the diff that was easily taken care of. The only section that I've always been concerned about and the shop is kind of worried about is the rear. Because there is so much Fiberglass back there, there just might be a nasty surprise for us. A few pictures attached. I can attach bigger ones if you guys want. In the 3rd picture, I don't know if you can notice, but inside the red circle there is also a long almost oval like bump (I have no idea what that is). It could be fiberglass that's being pushed apart from the metal? You can also notice the rust spot in the right corner of the spoiler.
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As a guy who is studying in public relations, he better get a hold of this crisis before any more damage is done.
I was actually going to message him and tell him to come forward and say that they are looking into the origins of the car. I'm also in school and just did a course on PR. Especially with social media and how fast information can spread. The least he can do is edit the description of the YoutTube video. It would be a good start.
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He just replied to me......
@rwdisgreaterthanfwd I have re-confirmed with the owner. He represented it accurately in the video as "a frankenstein" of parts, including all the trim, body pieces, chassis/shell, pretty much the whole car and interior parts you're probably talking about to "prove" it's a Datsun. There are Datsun trim pieces integrated into the car. He also re-confirmed that it is powered by a Ferrari V12, with the suspension, chassis, and driveline of a Ferrari.
I edited your post.
Somebody will be looking at it today. (Unless somebody makes me a better offer locally). The engine has been posted and re-posted on Craigslist since I started this thread.
Datsun 260Z & Mazda FD
in Non Tech Board
Posted
S2000 seats. They look as if they were meant to go in this car.