RebekahsZ
-
Posts
5399 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
58
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by RebekahsZ
-
-
I concur with Miles - just get the thing looked at at an alignment shop. But if you want to do a lot yourself, jack up each wheel and spin the wheel looking for bulges on the tire (you'd be suprised how much trouble bad tires can give) or broken belts or a bent rim (common). Then shake each tire top to bottom feeling for a bad or loose wheel bearing (rare) or a bad ball joint (very common). Have a buddy hold the steering wheel with each front tire in the air and push back and forth looking for a broken bushing (rare) or loose bolts or bad inner or outer tie rod ends (very common). Do same for back wheels. If nothing found, go to alignment shop. They will do same thing, but a better job and can then check all your measured alignment settings and correct them on the spot. Bad sway bar mounts and weak frame rails will not cause your problem. Super wide low profile tires sure can-they love to "hunt" along a crack in the road.
-
Stivva-is there a car in your photo? I can't see it for the pretty girl.
-
The weld where the two halves of my strut tubes were welded together created a tight spot so that my strut inserts wouldn't go in. Had to use a round hand file and brake cylinder reemer to smooth that junction out to get the strut insert in (a real PITA). It can be helpful to have your desired inserts on hand before cutting your tubes - that way you cut them to fit. Otherwise, you have to find a strut tube to fit the length you cut down to.... Anyway, standard length FRONT inserts now fit in my back tubes. I am running MR2 inserts in the front (can't remember the year MR2). I changed brands at some point and a different brand got me different length inserts, even when purchased for the same make and model. Some tubes have a little spacer cup on the bottom from the factory; don't be afraid to grind that down if you need to. Likewise, don't be afraid to drop some flat washers or bar stock into the bottom of your tubes to take up a little space. From my experience it is better to leave the tubes a little long and fill up the tube with a washer or two. Keep every gland nut that you can get your hands on - they are sometimes specific to the car, sometimes specific to the insert - don't ever throw one away.
-
A few years back, the K&N website listed a conical air filter that had a chrome plated shield on it (kind of like a bug and water guard). I couldn't find it on their website when I looked the other day. Their website can be kind of overwhelming due to so many, many products and part numbers. Anyway, if anybody knows what I'm talking about and can find a shielded cone with a 3.5" intake, shoot me a link. I'll be making my radiator support flange this week and dropping motor back in this weekend for some MORE test fitting.
-
Cleaned garage and organized boxes of parts into categories - I was getting disorganized. Gave away a bunch of L24 parts I don't need anymore to a friend who came over and helped out. Hard fuel line is in, running thru trans tunnel and is awaiting a motor at one end and a fuel tank at the other (see pics). Rear disc brake setup is all painted (see .Drifting Hydraulic Handbrake thread) and awaiting reciept and install of 280z stub axles to replace my bent 240z stub. Front brakes and suspension are totally complete. Cable e-brake handle and cable are installed; went ahead and swapped sides for the cable anticipating the need for shorter cables to go with the disc conversion. Transmission tunnel spot painted in primer. Fuel tank is to be ready Tuesday to be picked up at the paint shop; will wait to install it until stub axles, diff and axles are in place. . Radiator is on the wayThought about going to extended wheel studs, then reconsidered because I have 4 sets of wheels all requiring special nuts! Spent another $350 at Summitt.com on odds and ends; I should have everything ordered except exaust tubing (mandrel bends} and wiring suplies. I've stopped keeping reciepts and keeping traci of expenses.
-
Cleaned garage and organized boxes of parts into categories - I was getting disorganized. Gave away a bunch of L24 parts I don't need anymore to a friend who came over and helped out. Hard fuel line is in, running thru trans tunnel and is awaiting a motor at one end and a fuel tank at the other (see pics). Rear disc brake setup is all painted (see .Drifting Hydraulic Handbrake thread) and awaiting reciept and install of 280z stub axles to replace my bent 240z stub. Front brakes and suspension are totally complete. Cable e-brake handle and cable are installed; went ahead and swapped sides for the cable anticipating the need for shorter cables to go with the disc conversion. Transmission tunnel spot painted in primer. Fuel tank is to be ready Tuesday to be picked up at the paint shop; will wait to install it until stub axles, diff and axles are in place. . Radiator is on the wayThought about going to extended wheel studs, then reconsidered because I have 4 sets of wheels all requiring special nuts! Spent another $350 at Summitt.com on odds and ends; I should have everything ordered except exaust tubing (mandrel bends} and wiring suplies. I've stopped keeping reciepts and keeping traci of expenses. Sorry about the duplicate post-I fell asleep in the chair and my finger hit the send button before pics were attached.
-
Well, I just couldn't take it, I had some money in my wallet that just wanted out: I ordered Prothane LS1 motor mounts yesterday from Summitt. I only need the one, but I could only find a pair for sale ($50). So, if anybody needs it, I could sell off the second Prothane LS1 motor mount for $25 shipped. I can get the other side from Autozone since it is a universal small block mount. I do plan to cam the car next winter (this winter will be for R200). Thanks for loaning your car to the long tube header group buy.
-
Here is what I have so far. Engine is LS2 from 2006 GTO. Flipped the snout (4" diameterto) around toward passenger side, connected valve cover vent with 3/8 rubber hose running across throttle body. Cut out a section of the accordian section of the ductwork (3.75" diameter) and pushed it together which made the baffles interlock together really tight. I may try to squeeze some silicone adhesive into the attachment. Then MAF sensor. Will get a reducer from siliconehose.com to reduce from the 4" MAF outlet to the 3.5" JCI metal tube. Will fashion a welded flange for 3.5" JCI tube and trim out the radiator support hole to 3.5". Will use 90 degree bends from JCI. Total additional cost will be for silicone hose reducer, welding of the flange and an airfilter. Thanks for the pictures and imput.
-
Did you go poly?
-
Got brackets back from machinist today. He somehow let the template twist a little before drilling the holes to bolt onto the hub, so the clearance between the cable parking brake and the strut tube is just closer than I had hoped for. I think I can clearance it by trimming a little material off of the cable bracket. My drawings were such that the lower caliper would be level with the ground. I got jacked pretty hard on the brackets - $1000 total for both prototypes, but that is life in a small town with few machinist options. I would have to find more cost effective option if I was an entrepreneur and wanted to manufacure these. I need to find one brake hose that is 1 to 2 inches longer, and I need to move one of my brake hose-to-frame brackets up a little to complete the plumbing, but I think this is going to work. Pictures show the starting Maxima set up, then the double Maxima set up. I'll start painting parts Saturday then there will be a delay while I wait for new stub axles to arrive, get new bearings pressed and re-install.
-
PayPal sent (there was a $6 fee and I just paid it too; PM with address sent. Need 2 sets cause I'm planning on dogging the car pretty hard, and parts are getting hard to find, and I hate getting chigger bitten in the junkyard and these are kind of a bear to remove. Plus, I never would have guessed mine were bent, so if any of the ones that I get from you have minor damage, I can pick the best looking ones from among the 4. Lots of reasons, I guess. Please send any of the washers, nuts, bearings, etc. I'll order bearings, etc when they arrive. Thanks everybody. Admins, you can delete this thread if you want - mission accomplished.
-
I'll PayPal you today, but I'm not sure how many stub sets I am buying from you - I need one for the left and one for the right; I would love to have 2 for the left and 2 for the right. $20 shipping. Type out the itemized list and the total and I'll send you the PayPal.
-
Nice work. Those look great.
-
Sounds better than me going out and getting poison ivy and ticks - lets get it on. How do you want to get paid - PayPal or check thru the mail? If so, give me an address to send money. And I'm game for a second set at that price if you can get them.
-
I don't know if the hub mounting bolt holes will be the same for a 280z and a 280zx. If you want to trace them or something, then send the tracing to me by snail mail, I could double check the mounting bolt holes. Machinist had to make some changes for me; my new brackets are to be ready Thursday. I'll try to send you some pictures. If you could send me your email address to pkeiththompson@yahoo.com for the pictures. Keith
-
Thanks folks, keep the photos coming. So, I need to trim the hole to make it larger. Is the only SUPPORT provided by the tight fit created when cramming it thru? Also, my JCI rubber parts have been sitting in a box in the garage but they are alreay chalky and old looking while yours look nice and black-are you guys Armorall-ing the rubber parts? Also, my kit only has one section of aluminum tubing-do i cut that into two parts as needed, or did John short my kit?
-
Is that $99 plus shipping for both the right and left sides?
-
Started to mock-up JCI cold air intake system. I can't get the aluminum tube to cram thru the 240z radiator support! Can somebody walk me thru this? How do you secure the tube to the radiator support? Also, collecting pictures of how you set up your cold air intake system. I'm thinking of passing thru the radiator support on the passenger side in order to retain the vent function in the driver side footwell.
-
Looking for (2) good 280z 27 spline stub axles complete with companion flanges, bearings, washers and nuts. Of course I will consider any of the above parts individually. Paypal, credit card, or check ready. Will buy a couple of extra sets as well, if available. These are the stubs that go thru the hubs on the back wheels.
-
I am having some custom maxima brackets made up (see drifting hydraulic handbrake thread). If you are not in a hurry, I could sell you my old ones. I have one that is uncut and requires either cuttting or removal of the stub axle. The other I have cut to allow mounting with 3 bolts without removing stub axle. I could cut the other one as well. These "old" brackets have only been used to mock up the conversion and are not even dirty. My new brackets should be ready Thursday and I should be able to mock them up over the weekend to ensure that the new brackets will work.
-
JCI mounts and steering shaft painted and installed for final (I hope). Radiator, fans and shroud ordered to ship Monday. Finished bending up solid fuel line (major PITA); headed Monday to get AN fittings welded on both ends. Fuel tank re-sand blasted and delivered to paint shop for shiny black paint (on the outside). Rear disc brake calipers are at machine shop ready for pick up. Just gonna clean up garage today and get an order off to Summitt for fuel fittings and high pressure hose.
-
I saw several posts from guys who said that they couldn't wait to get them back out for vibrations. I'm not getting much feedback on this thread, so it must not be an issue. Will stick with rubber mounts because they are paid for. Gonna table this thread.
-
Thanks so much for the reply-you are the first! Great advice. Since it was such a PITA, can you really tell a noticeable difference in engine movement when you drive the car? I was just thinking that some of the installation clearances between the header and the JCI mount and the exhaust and the crossmembers are pretty tight and I wanted to avoid a lot of exhaust contact with other things. If the motor really doesn't move that much I might just stick with stock mounts - any thoughts? My L24 was in rubber and didn't really move that much except the exhaust rattled on the rear crossmember; and on this install I will be using at least one flex section in my exhaust system. By the way, look at LS1tech forum on trans mount. There is a lot of chatter on there that is negative about using a poly trans mount-I guess it gave a few guys a lot of trouble.
-
Just some pics to give substance to the discussion. I concur with all the comments made-these two plate designs do have their limits/problems, but the low cost and ease of installation were super for me. The second pic (I replaced the orginal allen head bolts with regular hex bolts) is of an EMI plate on my front suspension w/ Tokicos; it is on the max negative camber bolt holes. First pic (Allen head bolts) is of a DP plate on my rear suspension w/ Tokicos; it is on the second to highest negative camber bolt hole.
LS1 setup is coming out!
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Was the dead-ended fuel system a problem? I thought the LS fuel rail was designed to function that way. What problems were you having with it?