NavyCuda
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Posts posted by NavyCuda
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What are you doing about tach signal?
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I had the inside and outside of my exhaust manifold, turbine housing and downpipe coated in flat black. I had no clearance or fitment issues with the inside of my turbine housing coated. Though this is on a 5.9L cummins turbo diesel
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I first had a 120v 2 setting peice of ♥♥♥♥, I did a lot of work with it. Sold it for about what a payed a year or two later and picked up a 220v from the discount tool store, best 200 bucks i ever spent. Its flux core but has a amp range from 30 to 110 or so (in 4 steps), 30 amp setting works great for a lot of stuff, sheet metal, pipes, tubes ect. Dont feel like because its a 120 volt its gonna suck, Lincoln makes good stuff (it says its 20A input so it might not be a standard 15 amp plug) but if your looking for a cheap welder you can probably get a 220v from another company for the same price or less, look for used too. I'd be happy welding sheet with anything possessing an amp setting in the 20-30 range.
My lincoln 220v (model 180c) uses the 50amp plug, same as most dryers/electric range. Nice thing with the 220, my lights don't flicker like they do with 110 volt welders.
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The ZX has better aero and 4 more gallons then the 76
I dare you to cross the line...The zx has some good points, but I personally prefer the s30... If I want a ZX i'll move back into a z31...
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I actually just added headlight covers last week, since I have logged my best fuel mileage yet 56 mpg at highway speeds, (...due to a 30+ mph tail wind...)
Underneath the bucket covers I also added H4 headlight lenses with HID bulbs and ballasts (I need to fix the wiring harness to light them off though, not getting enough voltage to trigger the ballasts)
What kind of HID's? The ebay ballasts and kits can be very problematic, and the s30's seem to have weak headlight wiring to start off with.
Do you have a link to pictures of your LD install... I want to do one so bad, just the lack of engine availability makes it difficult.
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I have the 220 volt Lincoln welder, I previously had the 120 volt. Both are the infinitely adjustable feed and voltage.
I highly suggest using 0.020 with c25(argon & CO2 mix), with Lincoln consumables. There is a pretty big difference in weld quality, at least to me, with the cheap wire and the properly packaged Lincoln wire.
The 220 volt is an incredible machine and is capable of much more than it appears to.
Though I only have one 220volt plug in at both the shop and house so I had to invest in a rather expensive extension cord... $270 for 50 feet, though I made it myself.
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Fixed your Post.
Ahh yes, I stand corrected! Much appreciated.
I guess I'm going to have to look harder at the stupid VH swap... Have six of the damn things at work.
I was really hoping to blow a LD up to find out what it can take, or maybe it would take as much as I felt comfortable with... in which case it would be a pretty damn stout engine.
I'm hell bent on 30psi +, because it is the only way to use the turbos I have available to me and keep them efficent.
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If only LD's were easier to find in British Columbia!!!
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I haven't found any definitive proof yet either. I have a few photos of the LD20T, but only one low res photo of a stock looking LD28T.
According to the websites that mention turbo L series diesels there are LD28, LD28Td and LD28Ti versions of this motor.
These are the rough specs I've found for the three:
LD28 = 93 horsepower @ 4400 rpm, 148lbft torque @ 2000 rpm
LD28Td = 118 horsepower @ 4400 rpm, 198lbft torque @ 2000 rpm
LD28Tdi = 124 horsepower @ 4400 rpm, 210lbft torque @ 2000 rpm
They're pretty much the same on all the sites they're listed on, but never any accompanying photos.
Supposedly they came in some Laurels or possibly Patrols. It is entirely possible that those are just rumors or errors too. Could be that others have misidentified LD20T or RD28T motors.
-EDIT- I've checked through some very thorough Japanese Laurel specific websites and no mention of LD28T there either. Patrols apparently came with RD28T's. -EDIT-
Either way, I dig your conversion. What a coincidence that I happened to be driving my Z this afternoon, you drove by on the same road and I got to check it out in person.
I didn't even realize this thread existed here before this evening.
Those sound like the specs for the ®D28T & Ti...
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I believe you, and figure it's fine to do, however, is not excessive backpressure hard on an engine??
Although I have no practical experience with compounding, I don't believe there would be excessive backpressure against the engine. I would figure there would be more, but it wouldn't be "doubled" or anything like that.
Both turbos would be working in their respective efficiency ranges and the wastegates would keep everything in check, so I just don't see how the back pressure could actually get out of hand.
It also seems compound turbocharging has a tendency to assist in dropping EGT's, so would definitely be a setup worth looking at for a high boost LD...
I need to find a couple of cheap engines
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teknomage,
You may want to reconsider a VGT turbo, as the IDI diesel is quite dirty and could seize the vanes. This was an issue encountered with the 6.0L powerstroke and it is direct injection.
A ball bearing turbo would give you similar performance to the VGT, with less chance of failure. Personally I like the idea of turbocharging in series (compound), reason being it allows both turbos to operate in their efficiency range and they help to control egt, which is something that needs to be watched closely on a turbo IDI.
I've got a nice air research t3 with a 2.5" V-band outlet housing, internal wastegate I'll probably use as the high pressure turbo, and size a holset from a cummins application for the low pressure turbo.
Low Pressure turbo = big turbo
high pressure turbo = small turbo
Atmosphere
> L.P compressor inlet
> L.P compressor outlet
> H.P. compressor inlet
> H.P compressor outlet
> Intercooler
> Intake
> Combustion chamber
> Exhaust manifold
> H.P Turbine/wastegate inlet
> H.P. Turbine/wastegate outlet
> L.P. Turbine/wastegate inlet
> L.P. Turbine/wastegate outlet
> Exhaust system
Atmosphere
I am still researching to understand the math of compounding, but if I find a suitable engine, then I will be able to experiment as well.
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I really would like to get my hands on an engine. I need to blow one up! Then build a second engine.
From what I have read they use a bosch VE pump, so why couldn't DI pistons be machined, fill the factory combustion chamber and machine to accept DI injectors. Drop a VE out of a cummins application into the little engine to feed everything.
I've seen a 7.3 Powerstroke converted to full mechanical, so this idea shouldn't be too unrealistic.
I would try to run 18.5:1 and 30 to 50 lbs of boost if I had to go to all this work... Or put a vh45 in...
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The Ld28 could run into egt trouble with more than 8psi and the stock pump.
I'm not really sure what the power potential with longeivity as a concern is on one but there are a lot of blown head gasket stories on relatively low boost.
Might want to talk to these guys....they have a forum dedicated to the LD28.
http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php?sid=7273971a8cb1168b8abc5d5e5eb1c2fc
Yeah I'm a member there. Some good information but not quite enough. It seems most people are too conservative to risk blowing up an engine to see what it will do!
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Well I havn't been able to find a "cheap" LD in british columbia to blow up. I was thinking of doing a compound turbo setup up to about 30psi of boost. If it holds together then I have the engine I want... and if it doesn't... I might look at ways to convert it to direct injection.
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Do you have any more info on the adapter plate? I assume its for a Z32 trans? If you are making them with the intention of selling them I would be very interested, especially since your just a boat ride away from me.
When I do get around to finishing an adapter plate they will be available for sale.
The design will theoretically fit any transmission that will bolt up to a VG30, using the DE/DETT flywheel or flexplate. My current design will call for a flywheel spacer, using the TT or NA starter depending on transmission.
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I recently installed a Arizona Z big brake kit. At the end of the day, once everything was hooked up... I'm very disappointed. Do they brake well? Yes. Do they look good? Yes.
It stops there. The rotors are significantly out of balance, the machining and casting on the rotors resembles low end made in china components. Coleman rotors easily outclass whatever rotor are in the AZC kit. While verifying fitment I assembled the front bearings dry, when i let go of the rotor after thumbing down the nut, the rotor took off and immediately the heavy spot past dead bottom, went quarter of the way past and came back, volleying about 4 times.
The interference with the front control arm and the recommended solution is weak to say the least. In some cases a significant amount of material needs to be removed, causing me to actually worry if the control arm ball joint mount remains strong enough. Further inspection of the AZC kit leaves me to feel as though the errors were treated as though they were not worthy of the additional engineering to overcome them and produce a superior product.
I also installed the AZC short radius aluminum steering knuckles... also junk. first thing they did was split the boot on brand new Nissan tie rod ends when the suspension was loaded. The instructions included with the knuckles were a complete joke so I called and spoke with Dave personally. While he did answer my question, I hung up the phone feeling like he didn't actually care about my issue.
If this BBK is truly the best available for the s30, then someone needs to step up to the plate and produce a better product.
To be fair the quality of the machining produced at AZC is not in question, simply the choice in rotor suppliers and the overlooked engineering issues.
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I found it quite interesting that turbocharging caused more issues than supercharging... Doesn't sway my love for turbos though!
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I'm starting to think along the lines of a project, I really wanted to do a LD into the s30 and make a little compound diesel setup, but we also happen to have 6 VH's and already are working on an adapter plate for another project...
So... 300hp, 500ft.lbs LD or 500hp VH?
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A ball bearing turbo cannot be rebuilt but by a few places. The nameplate should be intact; it's usually riveted to one of the housings. You cannot disassemble the center section to visually see the bearings, but you can do this:
Lay the turbo on the table so the shaft is horizontal to the ground.
Reach into the compressor wheel and spin it as fast as you can.
Watch how long it takes for it to stop moving.
A BB turbo can take 10~30 seconds to stop moving. A journal bearing will take perhaps up to 10 seconds.
That's a rough estimate, but you'll get a feel for it. BB will want to free spin quite a lot. I've seen BB turbos you could lay flat and blow on them and they would spin. Journal bearing won't do that.
I would like to point out, that my holset is a journal turbo but only ever had full synthetic oil, I could blow on the impeller and get it to spin. It would also spin close to the 30second mark with a good hand twist. My holset is still on the original engine (6bt cummins, ~163,000km).
If the turbo is rebuilt and dry inside, spinning it by hand may not be good for it.
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Why couldn't you take the information on the data plate and contact the manufacture directly to determine what it is?
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I've been starting too look for an LD
If I was reading you right, you were considering using a compound twin turbo setup on the LD for ~26psi of boost. I've done some basic math that would suggest the t28 or t25 for the high pressure turbo and a large t3 or small t4 for the low pressure turbo.
I would definatly drop the compression ratio to 18.5:1 in some fashion, and would look at replacing the stock injection pump with a bosch VE.
I think at 26 to 30 psi of boost, you would be in the 200-300 hp range, with 350-550 ft lbs of torque. Would the LD survive this kind of output? At least in an s30/s130 it wouldn't be under a whole lot of load.
I may have read through this thread too quickly but it seems no one commenting on the simple fact of compression ignition.
XX compression ratio is required to heat the air enough to cause spontaneous ignition of the diesel fuel injected at XX pressure. My cummins runs 18.5:1 and 18,500psi injection pressure, but it is a direct injection engine.
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Holy Turbo Lag Batman!
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I've been looking at the LD28 and RD28T as options for possible transplants. I think I could convince an RD to be happy with compound turbos spinning up to 30psi of boost...
I would rather the LD28 because it would look stock in the car and it is more readily available in BC than the RD. I don't know if the indirect injection LD would handle 30 psi of boost.
On either engine, I would still shave the pistons back to 18.5:1 to handle the increase in boost.
I've got a 12v Cummins in my F350 with the rotary injection pump, and I'm hooked on diesel. I would somehow try to modify the LD or RD to take the bosch VE pump, see what kind of injectors I could get for it. I know everyone loves the P7100 but they produce way too much ignition clack for my taste.
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Awsome thank you, I will have to look over my maximum boost book to see if i overlooked this re-clocking method. From what i searched i might have to fab or modify the wastegate actuator but i hope not, also make sure the oil drain line is somewhat pointing down.
If you have to reclock the t3 you will have to fabricate a new mount for the wastegate actuator, if that is not an issue then it's a few bolts and a quick twist to fix the problem.
I dare you to cross the line...
...) 
Turbo Diesel Questions
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Oh... well it can't be that difficult to come up with something... i use the tiny tach diesel on my cummins conversion but there has to be better answers than that...