Bob-omb

You can use right or left interchangeably. I had an ear-piercing brake squeal and used 4 right side shims on my brakes. Just make sure the arrows are all pointing forward. Like you can see in the pictures on MSA, the only difference is which way the two tabs on top are bent. They're meant to wrap over the brake pad backing plate, but you can bend them over the other way, cut them off, or leave them as is. The tabs don't rub or interfere with anything, nor do they help locate the shim on the pad.

ritrebor hooked me up. Thanks guys! Mods please delete thread.

Hey gang, Looking for a driver's side chrome tail light bezel for a 280Z. Would take both bezels if you've got 'em. Chrome condition is not important, as I will be painting them - just looking for no cracks and good mounting holes. Cheers, Bob

There's a 1/2" step around the edge of the shroud, plus the side mounting rails are slightly wider than the core. I'd say the fans sit about 3/4" off of the core.

Yeah, I have a Powermaster alt and bigger fans on my '56 Buick. I was hoping I wouldn't have to go that route, which is why I avoided the ever-popular amp-hungry Taurus fan. The shroud completely covers the core. Here's a pic from their website:

Thanks for the feedback guys. Exactly the info I was looking for. Spal 30101522 12" (x2) were what I was leaning towards, but wasn't sure if they'd fit. One of Tony D's posts about fans on Zcar mentions something around 2200-2500 CFM being the magic number. The Spal 12" (x2) would be 2656 CFM total. The 12" fans that came with the Champion kit are supposedly 1000 CFM each. 160* thermostat in the summer. 30/70 glycol/water with 1 bottle of Water Wetter. Air flow is the issue, given that the stock mechanical fan is adequate but not great at cooling.

Can anyone recommend a good set of electric fans for desert temps? I've got the Champion Radiator 3-row with shroud and dual 12" electric fans ("550hp rating" says Champion) on my mostly stock '77 280Z. I gotta say, this combo is hot garbage on 100° days here in Las Vegas. http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-240z-radiator-shroud-1970-1973 With the stock brass 3-row rad and clutch fan, my temp gauge would very slowly creep higher while idling in stop and go traffic -- manageable with no danger of overheating. Same goes for the Champion aluminum 3-row rad with stock clutch fan and no shroud. However, when equipped with the electric fan/shroud combo (yes, they're spinning in the right direction), the needle climbs up to 3/4 of the gauge sweep within 15 minutes of stop and go traffic and steadily keeps climbing. It only cools at highway speeds when the fans aren't doing any of the cooling. Any suggestions? Cheers, Bob

The correct part for the 280Z nut is: 73.25.00.025.1 (M52 x 1.5p) I don't think the number changed. Looks like 73.25.00.007.1 (M51 x 1.5p) was never the right part.

That's the plan. The Monroe spacer and nut are a perfect fit and don't interfere with the shaft. I'll inquire if these parts are available individually from Monroe. Might be a cheaper alternative to the $20 a pop Koni nuts. I should be able to return the Koni parts, no problem. I'll post what I find out about the Monroe parts.

Calm down...is joke... Anywho, the point is, 73.25.01.007.1 (what you listed in the FAQ) is the correct number for the M51 x 1.5p nut, which is the WRONG PART. Per your sage advice, and from my own experience, I ordered it via the part number rather than "hey, I need a gland nut for a 280z". The M52 x 1.5p nut is the correct part. Please edit the FAQ.

Johnc, I think you may have the wrong part number listed for the 280Z Koni gland nut. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120671-koni-gland-nut-loose/

Thanks for the info, Kevin. 73.25.01.007.1 (M51 x 1.5p) is part number/specs listed in the "Strut Sectioning FAQ". Admins can you please confirm and edit the FAQ? JohnC can I send you the bill for these little pieces of gold?

Hey guys, I'm doing a coilover conversion and switching to Koni shocks. I noticed the Koni gland nuts are rather loose in my 280Z struts. They are the correct 73.25.01.007.1 nuts (M51 x 1.5p), but they are about 0.5mm smaller than Monroe (or stock?) gland nuts I pulled out, and there's noticeable slop when threading them on. The Monroe inserts I pulled out have a spacer that, surprisingly, fits the top of the Koni insert perfectly. I'm considering just reusing those, rather than risk stripping the threads out when I torque down the Koni nut. Just curious if anyone else has noticed this, or had any issues with the Koni nuts in their 280Z struts. Koni Nut: Monroe Nut: Monroe spacer on Koni damper: Monroe spacer and nut on Koni damper:

Very nice indeed, but RB swaps in Z31's might be slightly more common than you think... Google "Nissan 200ZR" to find out why. From what's visible in the 3rd picture, it looks like the stock location with the shroud removed and an electric fan added.

I was just about to ask if anyone has tried a commercial descaler like Sulfamic Acid or ScaleKleen (aluminum salts). I've had great success using those to descale espresso machine boilers. They'll strip a solid 1/4" thick coating of calcium build-up in 30 min. and make a copper boiler look like a brand new penny. But, like you said, the head would suffer. Neither are friendly to aluminum.