sharkys280

Continuity was from the ecu to the plug that connects at the sensor, when the ecu was plugged into the harness. When the ecu was unplugged there was no continuity from the plug end at the ecu, to the plug end at the sensor. That led me to think the ecu was shorting to ground inside the ecu. I'll check out the video and test out the crank sensor, and its gap. I'm assuming their ok, as i am using a new crank gear, new crank sensor and new oil pump...but I know assuming is a dangerous game so I'll test it. Thanks for the link!

I'm a bit stuck and not sure the best direction to move with my swap, hoping someone can help me figure out where my problem is. I've got a 2jz ge that im swapping into a 280z, im going the nat route with an aristo gte ecu. I reworked the wire harness and got the the point of startup, but it only cranks and doesn't fire. I wired a check engine light and got a "1..2.." code. So I checked the crank position plug and was getting continuity from the two terminals on the plug. Thought maybe I wired it wrong, so unplugged the ecu and checked the plug again, no continuity. Then I checked the ecu and was getting continuity with pin 4, 5, 6 and 7. 4 is a ground, 5,6 are cam position, and 7 is crank. So I thought maybe the capacitor that sits on those pins was bad, went to an electronics store that gave me a capacitor that "should" work, then had a place remove the old and put in the new. After all that, Im still in the same place as I started. Crank, no fire, code "12". Any thoughts as to a next step, other than another ecu (which i did but on ebay, waiting for it to show)? Any help would be awesome!

Yeah, it needed a little more bend to clear what I have there, I was thinking to heat wrap the closest header tube to give it a little more protection

Ok, after much tweaking and a little bending i arrived at this... workable?

Its an ebay header so Im guessing the builder didn't spend much time confirming clearances, so no help from them... I know the drain should be as straight as possible out of the turbo, but would a 90 off the bottom fitting be acceptable?

Turbo guys, this is my first time working around a turbo and I have a question on the oil drain. The manifold, turbo, drain fitting are all really tight and the drain line ends up laying on the header, is that going to be a problem? It's all so compact and close that it all looks problematic to me, but I'm pretty ignorant on what might be an issue or not... Any suggestions are welcome! A couple pics of the current layout

Yep...on the very long list of things to do.

Thanks for the links, saved me so much extra work. Here's the new layout, seems to operate smooth, clears everything. Hopefully I didn't miss anything important....

Sorry for disappearing for a hot minute... the starter is up and out of the way, its the rubber isolator and mount bracket that end up blocking the linkage.

2jzge, single turbo

Hey guys, I'm in the process of an engine swap in my 280z. The revised motor mount makes it necessary to change up the steering linkage, does anyone have experience with using an aftermarket steering linkage kit? I'm looking at the ones that add a joint to work around the mount. Do these negatively affect the steering feel? Anything not obvious I need to keep in mind, or is it pretty straight forward?

Any chance those scans/models are available?