wheelman
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Posts posted by wheelman
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Piston,
Yes to your description of the SES light. Use a fuse in the circuit though.
Here is how I wired my alternator.
P - not used
L - Fused 12V, ignition switched
F - Not used
S - 12V non-switched, it's hot at all times, no fuse, this is the charge level sense line.
Battery Post - Positive battery terminal
EDIT: Put a 35 ohm (5 watt) - 500 ohm (1/2 watt) resistor in the line connected to the L pin to prevent current over draw. Here is a link to a page with lots of good info on these alternators http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/Alternator_Theory.html#Section_3
Look at the section on the CS-130, CS-133 and CS-144 alternators.
I'm not using a charge light, that's why I used the L instead of the F connection.
The documentation I have says the S connection is optional but it wouldn't work without it.
I believe you could substitute the F for the L and use a charge light if you want, don't connect them both, it won't work.
If you do connect the F pin the alternator provides the ground so you connect the other side of the bulb to a fused ignition switched 12V source.
Hope this helps.
Wheelman
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That should work for the ADL cable, there is also a field diagnostic wire you may want to hook up but it shouldn't be required for a code reader. I don't have mine hooked up and can communicate fine. This circuit is also pretty sensitive to ground issues so make sure you have a good ground here also.
To answer your question about wiring the SES light, you need to provide 12V to the light and the PCM will provide ground if it wants to light the bulb. Thats partly how the PCM knows it's there, it measures for 12V on that input pin. I took the 12V from the choke light circuit but any fused 12V, ignition switched source would be fine.
Are you having fun yet?
Wheelman
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Tunercat is availble from Tunercat.com.
It's been a while since I purchased mine but Ithink it was $60.00 for the program and 1 engine profile.
You'll also need an ADL cable which can get from AKM electronics www.akmcables.com
Got to go, I'll check back in later.
Wheelman
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The wiring harnesses are different but the pinout of the PCMs is identical so a Camaro harness should work assuming you have the power and ground connections that integrate it into the Datsun correct.
I can't help with the Camaro harness as I robbed the one I'm using from the Caprice donor car. I used a PCM pinout listing for a 94 Camaro and everything works so I know the pinouts are good.
I use Tunercat as well and agree with 80LT1, hookup the SES light and resolve the alternator wiring problem then if things are still wierd dump the codes from the PCM. Without the codes it's more difficult to diagnose the problem.
Be sure to post tomorrow and let us know if the alternator is working, I have a Caprice alternator and it works fine but I can't remember how I wired it right now. If you can't get yours working I'll strip the tape off my alternator wires to see where I hooked them up.
Datamaster is also a very good tool to have assuming you have a computer and a cable to communicate with your PCM. You can use it for free but it will only record data for 30 seconds. It will show the trouble codes that are set and allow you to clear them though.
I could try to work with your PCM but I'd have to build a harness to provide power and communications. I experimented with mine in the car so don't have a bench harness. I know how to build one but haven't and would rather you pursue all other options before I try anything. I don't want to accidentally zap your PCM testing a new harness.
Have you talked to PCMAMERICA yet?
Do they provide any kind of warrenty or trouble shooting help?
It would be better to see what they can do before I try to look at it.
One other thing. It is extremely important to have good grounds in all the PCM circuits. Bad grounds will cause all sorts of weird behavior and could be the entire problem for you.
Wheelman
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Do you have an SES light hooked up?
I tried to run mine without one but the PCM detected it was missing and would throw a code as soon as the engine started. This would cause the fans to come on. Other than the fans my engine ran fine, but the SES code was the only one being set. I used the "choke on" light as my SES so now the PCM is happy.
The Camaro and Caprice MAFs are different. Camaro and Vette MAFs are 3.5" and B-Body MAFs are 3". I switched to a Camaro MAF and had to edit the calibration table to get things back to normal. Something to think about, especially if you're using a Camaro PCM and the Caprice MAF.
Did you send the PCM away for the tune?
Did you let PCMAMERICA know it was going to be used with a Caprice engine?
Where did you get the PCM? Maybe it's bad and nothing you do will fix the issues until it's replaced.
The cam, springs and rockers should not be causing the issues. I put an LT4 hot cam in mine and it runs fine without having to tweak for it.
Wheelman
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The 280, however, is more like a skittish, half broken bronco, that requires constant attention, challenges your driving ability and will literally ride the driver hard and put him away wet.
I've been thinking of different ways to describe the personality of my Z and this is the BEST I've come across with the added thought that it's always eager to be turned loose to run as fast as possible. Everytime I take it for a spin I fall more in love with it and it definitely reminds me of the head strong horses my sisters had when we were kids. They were always very eager to run and would take any chance you gave them to do just that.
Wheelman
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Arizonazcar is a good company.
They're products are top quality and they offer good customer service.
As to your other question about taking your car to a shop to have the coilovers installed, yeah thats something you can do but it's impossible to guess what they're going to charge. If you're serious visit a couple shops in your area with good reputations and get an estimate.
Wheelman
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Watch out with the 86 and up Camaro flywheels, they are set up for external balancing just like the LT1.
I know this for 100% sure, I have a 153 tooth 16lb flywheel from a 86-up 305 on my LT1. These engines all had 1 piece rear main seals and a different bolt pattern on the flywheel. The flywheel works perfectly with the LT1 and makes for an easy match to a T5 using the Camaro bellhousing, clutch fork and clutch parts.
Wheelman
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Hey Pete,
Did you see this thread was from 2004?
Wheelman
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I don't think it's necessarily valid to assume he's running an EFI car.
So what is your car, year, model, tranny type and mods?
Wheelman
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I'm disappointed with the Champ Car series now. The rules mandate all the cars are identical except for the engines and paint, just like the (dare I say it) NASCAR Car-Of-Tomorrow.
I think the sport loses a lot when these types of rules are put in place, kills all the inovation of the builders and makes it a driver/pit crew event rather than a full team event.
I'm not a huge fan of F1 either, strictly because of the money required to play, but at least the cars aren't all the same and there is some serious builder rivalry involved along with the driver controversies. The racing is actually pretty boring most of the time as it seems one car will dominate an entire race and the back markers (where the racing is happening) are ignored by the commentators.
I find the ALMS racing much more interesting.
Wheelman
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I like most of the features of the Mitsu but that lower front grill just looks wrong.
Not sure how I'd do it different but it's the only thing I see in every shot of the front of the car and it bugs me.
Wheelman
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I'm not sure what FFTD means but FTD = Fast Time of the Day and EM is the SCCA Auto-X class E-Modified. It's the class that Zs with engine swaps run in along with lots of other highly modifed cars.
Wheelman
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You sound just like me when I'm talking to myself in my head about who I want to beat. The local club only has a couple cars that I run against directly and they aren't much competition at this point. I run EM also and the local club groups all prepared and modified cars together.
The last event I ran against a Rotary powered Midget, an SVO Mustang and an EVO 8. The Evo driver is a good driver, beat me by a couple 100ths but will be driving an FSAE car the rest of the season so I'm in big trouble. But like I said the STis are the local terrors, the vette drivers aren't very good or the cars are stock.
I'm running Falken RT-615s, 225/50-16 size and am really happy with them. The steering is a little heavy in the slow corners so I'm considering PS, I can only imagine what you're going to deal with turning those big meats.
Wheelman
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What tires were you running before, do you have an LSD and what tires are those?
For me it's not the Corvettes that are the problem it's the Subaru STis.
There were 4 at the last event I attended and I only beat one of them and thats only because the driver isn't very experienced or aggressive.
The only Corvette that beat me in raw time was a Z06. Very impressive car and a good driver as well.
The other vettes were 2 C6s and a C4 but the drivers aren't that good. One of the C6s actually beat me by 1/2 second comparing fastest runs but that includes one cone I hit. PAX kills me so I don't really pay much attention to those results.
Wheelman
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I was going to ask how in the world you were able to hear a boost leak when you don't have a muffler, I guess it's an irrelevant question now.
Maybe the zip ties held the waste gate open a little to prevent boost higher than 6psi. Could be the PO's way of preventing himself from overboosting the car. Make sure you keep a close eye on the boost guage when you test drive it.
Wheelman
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Zmanco,
What behavior did you see going around bumpy corners?
How is the behavior different now?
If my understanding is correct those "bumpsteer" spacers do nothing to actually correct bumpsteer but they do raise the roll center.
Edit: How much did the Tokico springs lower your car? Mine dropped about 2" on the front and 1.5" on the rear.
Wheelman
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TwoEightNine,
My guess is it's a matter of dropping another $700.00 - $800.00 for a coilover/camber plate package which will be put into a car that is mostly driven on the street where they are not needed.
I went through the same argument with myself, I had installed the Tokico springs with their HP struts but then got into Auto-X. The springs are not the best so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to adjustable components but it's not a trivial amount of money.
As for other things to change that might help with the understeer. When I had those springs on my car the rear had a large amount of negative camber (2 degrees or more) but the front had virtually none. The bumpsteer spacers you have make for even less, you might try removing them just to see how things change. It will make for a small amount of added negative camber at ride height but the lower roll center may not be worth it. The large MSA bars might mean you never noticed the lower roll center but you won't know until you try it.
Wheelman
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When I first saw the new Impreza I thought UGG, but after a while it starts to look OK. I guess you just have to get used to it.
All you guys have to admit that Subaru has always made cars that are sort of gooffy looking and these are no exception.
The one positive thing I'll say about the new WRX is they'll have a hard time putting another one of those surf board wings on it when they build the STi version.
Wheelman
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The straps are galvanized steel strap I got at a metal supply store. I made a frame from 1x2 18 guage tubing. I should have taken pictures but as I said before I'm terrible at getting tunnel vision until a project is done.
Wheelman
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Mopar69,
You have to remove the spare tire well to install an LS1 tank.
I don't think it raises the CG much if at all, especially if the tank is not full.
I haven't made it to an event in Spokane yet but I want to. I talked to several guys from up there at the last event I attended down here (last weekend). They all said they prefer the Tri-Cities events because you get more runs and the people aren't as uptight about classing rules. I guess I'll find out when I attend a Spokane event.
The next event I'm going to is in Yakima at the end of this month.
I'd also like to attend one of the "Friday at the Track" events at the SRP road course, it's supposed to be a very fast track. The local Spokane BMW club runs them.
If I head up that way I'll be sure to let you know far enough ahead so you can come watch if you'd like.
Wheelman
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Deja,
Here is a picture of the back of my car showing how low the tank hangs below the rear valance. It's lower then I thought but higher then the stock tank I think.
Wheelman
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I had to give up my first Z car when I got married and had a kid.
Still have the wife though, it turned out to be a good deal for me.
Yeah, looking at some of the prices cars go for on Barret Jackson it makes you wonder doesn't it.
Wheelman
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Do you still have that Tiger?
Wheelman
more lt1 issues...frustrated....
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Piston,
Be sure to read the page I linked to, it has tons of good info about these newer alternators. They are very different from the older ones we all grew up with that required 2 wires. These are capable of providing load signals to the PCM and can be controlled by the end user if the circuits are set up correctly. But if you get one wired wrong theres a good potential you'll fry it. Thats why lots us older guys say these new ones are trash, we just don't know how they work.
Wheelman