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Jake_Goldstein

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About Jake_Goldstein

  • Birthday 01/21/1974

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  • Location
    Houston, TX

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  1. Thanks, John. I have gotten rebuilt calipers but the bushing I'm talking about is actually the on the spindle side of things. I don't have a good picture, but I think they call it the caliper mounting member. When the caliper comes off, it's the piece that's still mounted to the axle / spindle side of things. If I could buy a replacement mounting member, I might. The pins slide into these bushings. I may try and pry it out, but wanted to see if anyone had ever heard of this, or if maybe I'm on the wrong track. When you have your calipers mounted, can you wiggle the caliper much? Mine moves a couple mm, which seems to me to be too much free play between the caliper pin and the mounting member. But I've never tried this on any one else's ZX, so I don't knwo for sure if this is unusual. it seems unusual compared to other cars.
  2. Is the bushing that the rear disc brake caliper guide pins slide into replaceable? It looks like it is, and I thought I saw it in a manual once, but I don’t see it listed in the FSM, and I can’t find a part # for it. My calipers sit rather loosely on those pins, and I’ve replaced the pins, so I suspect the bushing in the caliper mounting bracket might be worn. Does anyone have any info on this? I couldn’t find any mention of this in my searches. Calipers bolt to the pins tightly, but pins seem to have more free play inside those bushings than I'm used to. I'm getting a little noise from the rear passenger side when pulling away from a stop, and I've already changed the calipers, pins, rotors, and pads. 1982 280ZX
  3. Well, the Dremel worked like a champ, and the manifold fits fine. My lesson: a small amount of grinding on the stud holes of the manifold is probably OK. Thanks to everyone here.
  4. Thanks, I think I'm going to do the same: just use a Dremel to hog out the hole in the manifold a little bit. Looks like I might have to take 1/16" off, and it's 1/4" thick or more near the holes, so here's hoping it works. I appreciate the response.
  5. I'm converting an 82 na engine to a turbo, and my new used turbo exhaust manifold doesn't fit quite right on the studs into the head. I can't get the rear-most stud on cylinders #1 and #2. i don't think it's a face flatness issue: i just can't get the holes to line up right. A few questions: 1) Could I have the wrong manifold? could I have accidentally gotten a different year, and the holes just don't line up? The new used turbo exhaust manifold I have does not have an EGR port on it, and the old NA manifold did have an EGR port. is that a clue? I got this manifold from a guy in Austin parting out a lot of cars, so it's possible we got mixed up? I can get all the studs in except the #2 screw (back one on the 1st cylinder) and the #4 stud (back one on the 2nd cylinder). 2) If all the manifolds are the same, then is there something I can do, like drill out the stud hole on the manifold a little bit? Is there some wiggling or prying trick I can try to get them to line up? The two holes are off by about 1/8" or so. 3) The face of the manifold is still flat. Could I have warped the manifold welding on the turbo wastegate flange, and still have the manifold face flat? I had a professional welder do the welding, I'm not that good. Thanks to all the posters here, I've learned a lot from you all. Jake
  6. Looks like the problem is a sticky fuel pressure regulator. Too much pressure makes the pump not turn and make that terrible moaning noise.
  7. When I prime, and the pump's going well, the pressure between the filter and the fuel rail input is 50PSI. When I crank, and the pump stops pumping and starts making the low moaning noise, the pressure is off my 60 PSI gauge (pegs the gauge, maybe 80PSI). When I stop cranking, the pressure remains pegged, gradually falling. When I try to prime again, while the pressure is 60+PSI, my pump makes the noise. So the noise is related to too much pressure. I'll go back through my lines and see if I can find where the blockage is. Can I idle the car with the regulator bypassed, just to test whether the regulator is the problem or not?
  8. Hi, I'm installing a new Walbro 255LPH pump on a 1982 NA 280ZX, in preparation for adding a turbo. I'm running MegaSquirt, and that's working OK (thanks to this forum, where I learned a lot). I added the Walbro fuel pump, and the pump: 1) primes OK with the first key turn, and sounds good (whirring noise) 2) starts making a low-pitched noise during cranking, and stops making the good whirring noise. It's a quiet, low-pitched hum or moan, like my stomach rumbles when I'm hungry. Voltage on pump drops from 11.7 to 10.7V. If the engine catches, it dies within 30 seconds, presumably due to no fuel! 3) Once I stop cranking, the fuel pump will still make the low sound during priming. 4) If I let it sit long enough, it will prime again OK. I'm now connecting the pump straight to the battery to eliminate any bad connections / relays / fuse problems, during testing. My questions: 1) What causes a fuel pump to make a low-pitched, quiet, humming, moaning sound? I think the pump is not spinning well, and I assume this is either low voltage or too high pressure. I'm connected straight to the battery, and I still see 10.7V when it's making the low sound, so I don't think the voltage is the problem. The low sound suggest to me that the pressure is too high. But if the engine isn't cranking, I don't have this problem, so I know my lines and fuel filter and all are OK. I've also disconnected the return line, and it pumps fine into a gas can. Could high pressure in the return line cause the pump to make a low sound? 2) Could the fuel regulator cause this? Could it be closing up during cranking, closing off the return line? Then when I leave the car sit for 15 mnutes, the pressure bleeds off, and I can prime it again. 3) How can I tell if I've damaged the pump somehow? My thought is to go get a fuel pressure gauge, put it before the regulator, and see what the pressure is. If the pump is moaning with less than 37PSI, then would I conclude that the pump is bad? And if the pressure is going higher than 37PSI then I would conclude that the pump is OK, and look to the lines and regulator to see why the pressure is too high? The car worked OK last weekend, with MegaSquirt and the original fuel pump. Then I changed the fuel pump, changed some of the hoses that were old, and now the new pump is not happy. I'm off to get a fuel pressure gauge, but if anyone could suggest other tests to help me narrow down the problem, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Jake
  9. idylan: The pics above of the transmission plugs are from underneath the car, on the right hand side of the transmission. The drain plug, not shown, is on the bottom. The differential plugs are visible when looking at the back of the car, laying on the ground. You'll probably need to jack your car up, and use jackstands, because these plugs are often on prettty firm, and you may need some leverage to get them off, and you don't want the car to fall on you. Jiffy Lube will likely check and fill these for you for $30, which is another alernative.
  10. Here's our 280ZXTX, a Texas-themed artcar. It's getting MegaSquirt and a turbo this summer, and then it'll be an artcar/racecar. The doors are cut out with stained glass inserts (plastic, really), and lit from inside. The back window has a stained glass Texas map and flag. The bumpers were removed, and we made custom Texas shaped mini-bumpers that hang on the horns. Floors and rails have been redone. Those T-tops are both cool and leaky. Thanks for all the good advice I've learned reading hybridz.org.
  11. Here's how I filled it so far, using the reverse sensor (I think that's what it is). Tonight, I'll try the heat gun and the "bolt-out" to see if the fill plug will come out.
  12. Phil, on my manual 5 speed tranny, there's a sensor, with a wire coming off it, about 6 inches forward of the fill plug. Same height as the plug. Both my fill plug and the sensor are on the passenger side of the tranny. I'm working on a picture, maybe tomorrow I can figure how to get it off my phone. I unscrewed this sensor using a Crescent wrench (I think it's the reverse switch that turns on the white backup lights, but I'm not sure. Mine's not hooked up). I was able to fill it up with about 3.5 pints, like the manual said it should hold. And when I just poured a little oil in to test, it came out the drain plug, so they drain to the same place, and I don't think the sensor is in a super isolated channel. Mike, I'll try the heat gun again. I was focusing on the plug, maybe it'd work better on the area around the plug, that makes sense. Thanks. How long do you hold it on there for? 5-10 minutes? Jake
  13. The fill plug on my 1982 280ZX 5 speed manual transmission is stuck, and I can't get it off. I've tried cheater bars, wrenches, pipe wrenches, liquid wrench, heat guns, and vise grips, and I still can't get it off. My drain plug is fine, and can be removed. I want to drain the fluid, since the car's new to me and has been sitting for a couple years. I have a couple questions: 1) I was able to drain it OK, and I refilled it OK through the reverse switch (I think that's what that is, to the front of the fill plug at the same height). This seemed to work OK. Is there any reason I have to remove the fill plug, or can I just leave the plug in? 2) If I do have to remove the fill plug, I'll take it to a Jiffy Lube and let them wrench it off. Where can I get the replacement plug? I think it's the British thread (not the NPT). I haven't figured out how to find these on car sites or in hardware stores. Thanks, Jake
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