olie05
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Posts posted by olie05
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Depends- Are you asking a serious question to someone who really likes/is into drifting, or are you just being silly
Ill answer under the assumption that you are indeed asking honestly, or at the least intend to view this answer as a response for anyone *else* who may not actually know the difference.
Im going to this as short and *hopefully* as simple as i can for anyone who is interested. A power-slide is when you simply use the power of a vehicle to abruptly disturb the traction of the rear tires and kick the rear end out. A drift on the other hand, (while it usually ALSO involves a good bit of power), is performed by subjecting the car to a rotational-momentum that causes the rear tires to break free.
So hows all this actually work in practice?
Start driving your (rear wheel driven) car in a big circle, let the car set, and then romp on the gas. Counter-steer, correct, hold the slide a bit, pat yourself on the back- That was a power slide.
Now start driving your car, then force the vehicle to turn in at a rate so quickly that the rotational-momentum of the vehicle causes the rear tires to break away (a good flick out of a corner, then quickly into a corner is a pretty good method to accomplish this for learners), apply the power while counter-steering, and pat yourself on the back. That was a drift.
So the real differences in the end? Power-Slide causation: Power. Drift causation: Momentum.
I think this is completely opinion, and should not be presented as fact, as you have done. Drifting is a subjective "sport", subject to the opinion of the judges... I like to think of it as the figure skating of motorsports.
For example, a lot of drifters use a hydraulic handbrake. A slide initiated by using the handbrake, in your opinion, is not a drift. However, this is commonplace even in professional drift cars. How is that much different than using the power to get the car sideways?
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Beautiful job! This is definitely an inspiration to me. Thanks for documenting it.
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Been chasing head gasket sealing issues. Finally think we have them resolved with a MLS gasket.
Made 223HP on DynoJet with leaking head gasket. Now that it appears that the gasket leak is fixed, here is the latest dyno plot:
I figure it's making close to 300HP at the crank.
Doing a track event in a couple weeks. I'll post the results.
Pete
I'm curious, what did you find out to be the issue with the solid copper gasket?
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My position makes perfect sense. The cam lobe is either symmetrical in shape or it is not. If I weren't talking about the cam lobe, and were actually talking about valve speeds or cam timing, I might refer to that as "valve speed symmetry" or "valve timing symmetry" but that is not what people are talking about when they say "asymmetrical camshaft." While your description of valve timing events might be more accurately called "symmetric", that has no bearing on the common meaning of the term asymmetric cam. The common definition refers to the shape of the lobe and the ramps. Some evidence follows. This took about a few minutes to look up on google. You can try and find some that say that asymmetric cam refers to valve speed or valve timing, but based on what I just found I think you'll be looking for a while.
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Here's one that even refers to what you and Tony are talking about.
http://www.metricmechanic.com/catalog/dual-profile-asymmetrical-cam.php
"If you look at the BMW intake and exhaust cam lobes, they will appear to be a mirror image of one another and ground with an asymmetrical profile. When you plot out the lift curve on a piece of graph paper, you'll discover that the asymmetrical BMW lobe looks like a symmetrical bell shaped curve. The reason this phenomena occurs is because as the nose of the cam wipes across the curved foot of the rocker arm, the rocker arm ratio changes from a low of 0.9:1 to a high of 1.6:1 (with an average of 1.25:1). So, if we combine a fairly symmetrical lobe with BMW's variable rocker arm ratio we end up generating an asymmetrical cam map."
Is everybody else wrong, or are you and Tony wrong?
Jon,
Almost all the links you posted to the definition of asymmetrical cams are referring to cams that would be used in engines with relatively fixed/constant rocker ratio, which would also result in a symmetrical cam giving symmetrical valve opening/closing.
Maybe the nomenclature doesn't agree from one source to the next, but I would have to agree that almost all L6 cams would have to have asymmetrical "cam profiles" to optimize the changing rocker ratios for valve velocity/acceleration (as mentioned in your BMW quote.)
For the Original Poster,
Why not buy some v-blocks as Jon mentioned earlier, get a dial indicator and a degree wheel and measure the cam all the way around. Then model the valve movement as the cam acts through the rocker arm, and check out what the lift is.
At that point you would have more information than the original cam card had. (might be more work than you signed up for though.)
Also, if anyone is willing to take measurements of their cam (don't care if it's stock or regrind) and send them to me, I would be happy to model the resultant lift at the valve.
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This is looking really great. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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I guess it really depends on where the torque peak ends up... which would come from headwork/cam and probably be influenced by the rod-stroke ratio.
I want to build this engine to last, not to blow up, so if i wanted to frequent 8000rpm without breaking apart cranks, would I be able to get away without a full counterbalance crankshaft?
(btw it looks like i'm going to end up with a standard diesel crank anyway)
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I've been toying with the idea of going to a stroker crank, and of course I started doing some searching on the topic.
In my searching I came across Kameari who appear to be the only company publicly selling "aftermarket" crankshafts for the l-series. This includes an 83mm standard ld28 crank, a fully counterweighted 83mm crank, and a fully counterweighted 85mm crank.
Also someone in NC has a moldex billet crank, don't know if this is fully counterweighted or not, but it seems like something you might as well do if you're getting a custom made billet crank.
(source:http://speed.racingjunk.com/category/83/GT/post/1969249/Datsun-Z-Car-vintage-racer.html)
From what I have read, it seems that the main reason to go with fully counterweighted is to be able to rev higher. Also, a striking disadvantage is that you are adding more weight to the crankshaft.
As an aside, it looks like the rb series engines do not use fully counterweighted cranks, while most (if not all) aftermarket stroker RB cranks are fully counterweighted. TVR's Speed six crank isfully counterweighted. This leads me to believe that fully counterweighted cranks are more reliable in performance applications.
Can someone please provide some insight on any other pros and cons of this type of crank vs what we the other 99% of us are running?
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Finally got to work on the car this past weekend. I took the trigger wheel off and remounted it, made sure it was centered, then did some cranking tests. Somehow the RPM signal was getting to megasquirt regardless of previous cranking history (this was not the case before).
I took the spark plugs out and decided to sandblast them, since the closest autoparts store was about a 30min drive from where we were.
Set the cranking pulsewidths very low and it fired right up.
Looking back, I'm guessing everything was working right the whole time, I just could not diagnose the coil signals using the multimeter's Frequency setting.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!
..Now to create a tach signal for the autometer Tach that works with the edis module...
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Opened up the new slave cylinder and it was clean, light assembly lube I guess, but no metal shavings. I installed it today and it seems to be working fine so far. Let's see how long this one lasts.
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Over the last 5 years or so, I have replaced at 3 different clutch slave cylinders and I have had to replace the master cylinder once.
I just went down to autozone and claimed the warranty on the last one I purchased, but I'd like for my slave cylinder to last longer than 2 years for once.
What usually happens is the clutch fluid starts to show up by the boot of the slave cylinder, and the pedal feels spongy.
I have a centerforce stage 2 pressure plate, so it's stiffer than stock. If I buy an OEM cylinder from courtesy will I solve the problem, or do you guys with heavier P.P.s go to a different style slave cylinder? What are my options here?
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Cool.
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Swap the two wires on the VR sensor. Â Even if the colors don't match.
Already tried that, and it shows the same symptoms either way.
I would also like to add: why do the MSNSE diagrams show pin 4 disconnected? It says IGN GND ... that sounds kind of important.
4 cylinder EDIS module pinout
Signal EDIS Module Terminal
PIP (EDIS output signal) 1
IDM (diagnostic signal to ECU) 2
SAW (ECU spark control signal) 3
IGN GND (signal return) 4
VRS - (crank sensor negative) 5
VRS +(crank sensor positive) 6
VRS shield (crank sensor shield) 7
VPWR (ignition switched 12 volts) 8
PWR GND 9
COIL 1 (coil drive) 10
CTO (clean tach out) 11
COIL 2 (coil drive) 12
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Just checking - you aren't powering the EDIS module from the fuel pump relay, are you?
The edis (and megasquirt) is getting its power from the main relay.
I'm thinking that taking it all out and bench testing it might be a good idea. This is really a strange problem. I thought EDIS was supposed to work no matter what!
using this diagram, http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/edis4ew.gif
if I probe from pin 2 to 1 on the coil pack harness I see +12v
if I probe from pin 2 to 3 on the coil pack harness I see +12v also.
If I probe 2-1 or 2-3 (coil harness) on the frequency setting on the multimeter while cranking, I get no signal.
That's the part that's confusing me, because I can see the cranking RPM on the screen
Voltage drops to about 8v during cranking. Too low?
I'm attaching some cranking data logs which demonstrate the no RPM reading after initial cranking. Reset is required for megasquirt to read RPM again.
Thanks for the diagnostic tips! Hopefully we'll find an answer soon!
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I tested the module today and it turns out it's good. I guess now I'm tracking down a wiring issue.
Anyone have any edis advice?
--One thing I am wondering: If the edis is somehow not sensing the missing tooth, will it still provide a PIP signal to megasquirt but no spark to the coils?
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Just to set my mind at ease,
For those of you with EDIS running on a car, are you able to obtain rpm readings after the engine has stopped from it's initial run?
in other words: power on->start->run-> (engine stalls or turns off without power being removed) ->restart engine (with rpms reading?)
I'm just curious if resetting the power to obtain RPM readings is a characteristic of EDIS that we will have to deal with in the future. As of now I'm ruling this module out as toasted.
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Figured it out!
When I went to the track my header bolts were loose. The #2 cylinder started to loosen up more than the others and allowed exhaust gas to go by the gasket. After driving around like this for an unknown period of time the gasket eventually disintegrated, causing a highly rich condition in the cylinder.
This caused my spark plug to foul out. I replaced the exhaust gasket, but not the spark plug, and so the fouled spark plug still rendered the cylinder useless.
Changed the spark plug with a known working old one and I'm back to 100% power!!!
I'll be picking up a set of ngk bpr7es11's tomorrow and replacing them all. THANKS JEFF YOU ROCK!
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Installing an EDIS 4 on a porsche 951 and were running into some problems that may also be relevant to other people running EDIS's on Z's.
Here are the symptoms:
When looking at megatune the rpm gauge only shows engine speed while cranking on the first try.
There is no spark at the spark plug wires, but I bench tested the edis coils and they checked out with the spark plug wires and spark plugs we are using.
This leads me to believe that somehow the coil driver circuit in the EDIS module is fried. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? The module is sending an engine speed signal to the megasquirt, but the module is not sending any signal to the coils.
also, Edis is wired per the msnse manuals.
Thoughts?
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THIS AUGUST HAS.
5 SUNDAYS
5 MONDAYS and 5 TUESDAYS.
All in one month.
THIS HAPPENS ONCE EVERY 823 YEARS.
You're spending way too much of your spare time on the internet bro.
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I was thinking more of a Daily Driver.
Zip around town in a 5 speed, 200HP, 2000 lbs car.
It would be really fun, and all the gas money you save could go into Z parts.
This would only be profitable (or a break even situation) if someone GAVE you the hayabusa powered smart.
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haha 20 year old zip ties!
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Update:
Most of my header nuts were loose. Tightened them up and it sort of quieted down the sound. There is a strong exhaust pulse coming from around the #2 primary. I'm guessing the gasket deteriorated from me driving around with loose header nuts.
The plan: Replace the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets and see where I'm at.
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L28e
10:1cr
MSnSE
crane 272 282 cam
felpro 1mm HG
I just did a track day and ran the engine consistently at 200 degrees F. Something happened during the trackday to the engine and it felt low on power. Its a sporadic type deal though...
Here are the symptoms:
The engine is idling about 100-200 rpm slower than normal, really anywhere between 500-700.
When I rev it freely there is a light semi consistent puff sound coming from the intake/exhaust side of the engine somewhere around cyl 2 or 3.
If I drive it and try to get on the gas a little it smells like unburnt fuel and tends to pop through the exhaust, while making a louder version of the puff sound I described above.
Engine note sounds like I'm running on less than 6 cylinders when I give it lots of gas, less gas it doesn't sound, or feel as bad.
It has progressively gotten worse the more I drive it on the street since the track day.
I'm going to throw a compression gauge on it and see where it stands with static compression. If I don't see anything fishy with the valves/rocker arms the head is coming off so I can have a good look-see.
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When I installed my airdam I left the lower grill on behind it (280z). This gives the dam something to rest against when the wind is pushing on it. I did a track day at 100 degree temps (airdam was soft), and didn't notice any deflection in the pics at 100mph.
of course from an air management point of view, your modification is far better.
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What do you do when you want to open the passenger window? Shared window crank?
My friend used to have a crx and he lost the clip for the window crank on the passenger side. He would keep the crank in his door pocket and make passengers ask for it if they wanted ventilation.
curious to know what are the best L Series Transmission options now?
in Drivetrain
Posted
Derek -- any updates on the tl70 swap?