Jump to content
HybridZ

boostiswhatsfordinner

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    53

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by boostiswhatsfordinner

    Rota Grid Drift Wheels

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Check these out... These just came out for the holiday season this year. Nice concave and nice offsets.

     

    New XXR 522s

     

    xxr522gld.jpg

    xxr522hb.jpg

     

    15X7_____4-100/4-114.3___25___CHROMIUM BLACK / GOLD

    15X8_____4-100/4-114.3___0___F-BLACK / CHROMIUM BLACK / GOLD

    16X7_____4-100/4-114.3___25___F-BLACK / CHROMIUM BLACK / GOLD

    16X8_____4-100/4-114.3___0___F-BLACK / CHROMIUM BLACK / GOLD

    Wheels for my Z

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Very nice zuum. Did you spend all day typing that?

     

    Thank you for the helpful information you have bestoweth unto thine feet. It will help greatly in my journey. You are very wise with the thoughts of the gods, how doth thou know all such knowledge of such great things?

     

    "Google much?" is usually taken as someone being a smartass. Sorry if this wasn't the case.

    Wiring in Electric Fuel Pump

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Running an electric fuel pump so that it turns on and off with the ignition key is a stupidly dangerous thing! If you look at how electric fuel pumps are controlled by ANY modern car, you will see that they ALL have a system that insures that the power to the pump is cut off in the event of an accident, even if the ignition key is left in the "on" position. Z-cars had a couple different ways of doing this...early cars had a relay controlled directly from the alternator, which prevented the pump from running if the alternator was not moving. Later cars had a relay run off the oil pressure sending unit. Other cars simply have the fuel pump controlled by the ECU. At a bare minimum, you should at least install a relay designed to shut off the fuel supply when it senses the shock of an accident. These are cheap and readily available at NAPA or Rockauto.com.

    That being said....having run an l-28 on triple webers that made over 225 HP to the rear wheels, I know that the stock mechanical pump is completely capable of providing all the fuel your car will ever need. The reason you are having tuning problems at WOT with your 600CFM carb is that, with all four barrels wide open, your air velocity through the carb is too low for the carb to properly draw and atomize the fuel. It's too large a carb for the airflow demands of an l-24.Changing the size or type of a carb does not effect the fuel flow requirements to the engine.Fuel flow requirement is directly proportional to the horsepower output, and the stock mechanical pumps are capable of supporting WAY more horsepower than your setup is going to make.If I were you I would quit worrying about the pump and put on a properly sized carb.

     

    So im running my mechanical pump alone. But im having problems with it keeping fuel in the line. I bypassed the electric pump and itll run for a little bit but will stop running and when i take the fuel feed line off there is no fuel. I dont know whats up.

    post me some questions

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Hey grumpy... should be an easy one for ya.

     

    I got my car and ive been trying to get it running (74 260z, dual webs)

     

    So i turn the key, cranks but no start. It will only run with starting fluid. So i went back to look at the fuel pump and there was a wire running the entire length of the car with a blade connector in the fuse panel location on the passenger side.

     

    I know by seeing that wire that it was jimmy rigged to work but I wanna do it the right way. Looks like the original wire is non-existent.

     

    Im a noob when it comes to relays but I know its needed.

     

    Can you help me through it?

×
×
  • Create New...