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kakapoopie

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About kakapoopie

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    KakaPooPooFace
  • Birthday 09/30/1989

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    http://vaughanling.blogspot.com

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    Miami, FL
  1. tech - I have a stethoscope, didn't think to check the chain, thanks for the tip. And trust me I didn't want to buy those plugs, but they were the cheapest they had in stock. Challenger - I think it is running rich..there is also a tiny pool of fuel that always gathers on the opening of the front carb. It's got a stock replacement mechanical pump
  2. Hi everyone, I have a 1971 240z with an L28 (N42) block and E88 head. The PO said it had been sitting for two years and it had a valve lash pop off due to sticky oil that I fixed. I also just redid the fuel system (newish 280z tank, new hoses, pump, filter. Carburetor float needles were stuck closed, but I soaked them in carb cleaner and they move freely now, cleaned the banjo fitting mesh filter. Also adjusted float level, timing and valve clearance as per FSM. Here is a video of the car idling Now to the problem. The car is idling very rough, engine is shaking, there i
  3. Thanks for the tip, sure enough it was super gummy stuck on the front carb. I worked it free with a bit of carb cleaner. Still running rough though. I'm waiting on a flow meter to come in so I can attempt to sync the carbs.
  4. I'm having a similar problem on my 71 roundtop carbed Z. Instead, the first 3 cylinders were not firing. The plugs were definitely fouled and wet with fuel. Also there is a tiny pool of fuel sitting at the front cab air inlet. I replaced the plugs and now they all are firing except for #1, which released white/blue smoke when I took out the sparkplug after running for a few minutes
  5. Here's a of what it sounds like after putting the lash pad and rocker back on. (no muffler) I'm gonna check and adjust the valves now, do you guys hear any obvious issues with the idling?
  6. well I ended up just tapping the lash pad into the cap with a hammer. it didn't take much to get it in, and once it was in, it swiveled freely, so I figure it should be ok for now. I put the valve cover back on and started the car, the shaking seems to have gone away for the most part. but the tapping noise is still there. i listened to the valve cover with a screwdriver and it sounded normal. it really sounds like it's coming from the carburetor area, i couldn't pinpoint the noise with there either. I'll try to post a video later.
  7. sticky- I'm trying to get the spring cap (valve spring retainer?) off too, which I shouldn't do with a screwdriver, no?
  8. Well, I guess tomorrow the camshaft is coming out . Arghh
  9. Dr Sideways - I don't know if a cam/rocker pattern wipe was done because I didn't build this motor. It had supposedly been sitting for two years, and I just finished replacing the fuel tank, hoses, filter pump etc. Also it is a 240z e88 head with 280z n24 block I'm not sure if I used the correct term for the part I'm talking about. It's the little circular thing that goes ontop of the valve spring retainer and has a groove for the rocker to slide on. I put a magnet to it and it is iron. I'm not sure if it's clear in the picture, but the seat for the rocker guide is slightly s
  10. I got my 71 240Z started for the first time today. It idled around 1000 rpm (very rough) and the engine was shaking kind of bad, and a loud ticking noise coming from under the valve cover. I took it off to investigate, and this is what I found. The rocker guide (lash pad?) was sitting on the floor of the head and looks to be fully intact. The valve spring retainer on the other hand was mashed up a bit and is a little tight for the rocker guide (lash pad) to fit into. If I want to get the retainer off, I'll have to take off the camshaft and rockers, because I only have one o
  11. ^^Will do. I took off the float bowl covers and found them bone dry. After comparing the two float adjustments, they were way off of each other, I adjusted the one that wasn't fully actuating the valve to match the other. Both were dry though . Sprayed carb cleaner into the float valve, let it sit. Tried to blow from the input line through the valve but no air is getting through, whether the valve is in or out. This valve was also stuck open at first, but it eventually pushed down with a screwdriver. So at least I've narrowed down the problem, but I don't know why the valve's
  12. Thanks for the links Arizona. I'm gonna try pouring fuel into the float bowls now and NOT the oil hole like i was doing
  13. I'm still new to carburetors, not sure whats what. I do know that the cylinder inside the carburetor is slow to pull up (when I'm opening it to spray in starter fluid) How do I check the floats?
  14. Update: fuel is getting to the filter. The hardline between the pump and carbs is unobstructed. fuel hoses right up to the carb are wet with fuel from the tank. I don't know what to check from here. Thanks for the help so far.
  15. It's a mechanical fuel pump. I put in 2 and a half more gallons and still dont see any fuel in the clear filter. I put some fuel into the float bowls and it ran off of that fuel (for a few seconds) How many cranks does it usually take to get from a dry tank to the filter?
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