Dramier
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Posts posted by Dramier
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The motor is now in its final resting place. We had to drop the cross member and notch the framerails slightly. The rigidity of the framerail is not compromised, and everything clears! Here's where it will set....
None of the body panels are secured well so thats why everything doesnt fit 100%
-drool-
-wipe-
-drool-
By the way, I call dibs if you ever need to hire anybody... I would give my left nut to do what you are doing with that car for a living. Wrenching on normal cars at a dealership is awesome, but if I could do that day in and day out... god have mercy!
An awesome swap, and I must say a big thanks for all of the build-up pics, especially that awesome thread on the transmission...
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Couple of easy things..
First, if it has a stock intake manifold, then the last runner on the intake manifold will be indented on the RB20, no indentation on the RB25. If the runners are all even, then it's an RB25. Second, RB25's have a VTC solenoid on the end of the camshaft which requires a bulge in the timing cover. Supposedly it can be removed, but there's no reason why it should be.
Here's a pic of an RB20:
And another:
Now here's an RB25:
Another view of an RB25:
Hope that helps you out a little.
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Congrats on a successfull swap Booztd! Great to see another 300ZX with an RB out there tearing up the asphalt. Looks awesome!
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Here's mine from a while back... not much has changed. Too much work, too little time, way too little money.
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Now the fenders I have never seen on a U.S. car. I would -love- to have a set of fenders. I may get the hatch later on, but I'm worried about the glass transfer aspect of it.
I'm a symmetrics kind of guy, and the offset scoop on the stock hood just hurts my eyes. Only way I can do it is Cowl or flat. I plan to stick a guage under the cowl part old hot rod style.
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Ironically, I think all three of the RBZ31's have the same hood. I have the CF cowl hood as well. Pictures don't do that hood justice, it looks alot better in person IMO.
Racin, don't you have the same hood as well?
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Well, now there's finally two of us actually driving around.
Welcome to the club.
I'm on my 2nd year of daily driving my completed swap, and so far she's still a champ. Congrats and post more pics of the completed swap.
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Some corrections and additions I'd like to add in.
I'm using the RB20 tranny on my RB25 Z31, and there aren't any interference issues with the speedo. Unfortunately, the tranny housing area does have to be "massaged" a bit to get to the bolts and get it snugly in place.
Also, the RB engines are illegal in most states period and are only supposed to be used "off-road or race" only. I think the truth of the matter is the RB is not specifically covered by many state laws, and as long as you don't go around smog shops acting like an idiot I would imagine nobody is going to question a Nissan motor in a Nissan car. Hell you could probably even pass it off as an older L28 motor or something to that effect and most people wouldn't be any wiser.
As far as the mount ideas go, I would stick to making mounts for the 240/260/280Z guys. I mean there are only two guys in the United States with RB Z31's period that I know of, myself and Racin. Most of the questions and emails I get asking about my car and the swap are from folks that have no clue the kind of work and money involved. In other words, people that will probably never actually attempt the swap. Quite frankly I was pleasantly surprised when Racin's project came along as far as it has and I have every confidence he will be the next finished Z31 and almost definitely a much better swap than mine was!
I think what the RB community could use much more than mounts is some options in the manifold department. Both intake and exhaust manifolds in particular would be nice. Not all of us have access to a machine shop or the knowledge/experience to make our own turbo exhaust manifolds or intake plenums/manifolds. But that's just my .02.
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RB26 won't fit.. sorry bro. Steering column barely clears the 25, much less a 26. I have maybe a 1/2" clearance and I think Racin' has a 1/4" clearance with his, so that should give you an idea of how little room there is.
IMO, you should either do an RB swap or do something completely different. Like I would love to see an AWD Z31.. maybe a Subaru motor/setup?
If you're looking cheap, go V8. If you're looking easy, go factory motor. All else break out the wallet and the Tylenol.
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Wait, so are you in South Texas or not? If so, where exactly? I'm in Lufkin. I'd be stoked just to see somebody else with an RB here.
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Thank god! Somebody else finally doing this! Mine is still running strong and I'm ultra-glad there's now a 2nd one in the works.
I wish I had had the knowledge to do mine myself and document it, but unfortunately I didn't. However, anything I can do to help just ask and I'm there. Need pics of anything?? Need measurements?
I can tell you the mistakes and hurdles... god I love finally having somebody to work with!!
You've got the -exact- same IC I am planning on using as well. It's too wide for the stock position though so I am having to figure out how to modify the dash to get it to fit. Pointless at this time until I find a danged speedo cable for it... heh.
I already have all the Japanese crap on the back broken down into English and what it should hook up to if you need it. I can tell you how to setup a quick tachometer as well when you get ready for that. By the way, plan on cutting the front brace between the headlights out and welding flanges on it for bolts. You will want it bolt-in so you can do timing belts later on. Big on my list of to-do's. I have to daily drive mine so I haven't been able to do squat on it.
Also, if your source for that exhaust manifold can make another, man I would be all over it. No way I'm patient and deep-pocketed enough to wait for an HKS one to show up. I was thinking of ordering one of those cheap SS's to chop up and make better while I practice welding..
Have you measured for the driveshaft yet? Might want to do that immediately because you will almost definitely need it cut or made. It was also alot easier to move the radiator down some to make everything fit. I have a female consult connector coming so I can hook up the Blazt software to play with, I'll be sure to post that up when I get it working. If you don't have a female Consult (Think OBD) connector I can tell you where to find that as well.
Heh, look at that. I write a book in pure excitement.. Being first is cool and all, but it sucks when you aren't good at fabrication.. hehehe...
Congrats on the progress!!! Hit me up anytime for help, I completely support what you are doing and will help in any way I can.
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Heh..
Well, for the rest I dunno..
But if you want to know about an RB25 in a Z31, you can email me and I'll answer what questions I can. I don't know of anybody else with an RB25 in a Z31 running or not, so I guess that makes me poster child.
I can tell you right now it's going to cost alot more than you think and probably won't deliver the results you are looking for. I didn't choose RB as much for power as I did for keeping it Nissan, using newer technology and originality. You want power, give Jeg's a call and get a crate.
But if you're curious about the 25 swap.. just email me and I'll answer what questions you have.
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Dear lord.. I have been officially reduced to a state of semi-intelligent drooling craven jealousy...
I don't think I could put that in a car.. it belongs on a stand in my living room as the purest form of poetic art!
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Sorry 'bout that. 240hoke is on the money.
There are multiple ways to measure boost and' date=' even though the scales are different, they mean the same thing.
3 (of the many) ways Boost can be measured:
Bar
PSI (pounds per square inch - absolute)
mmHG vacuum (millimeters of Mercury)
[b']
1 Bar[/b] = 14.7 Psi = -.39 mmHG
Mostly you will find American cars to have PSI gauges. I have seen Bar gauges I think in factory Toyota's but haven't seen any other than that (factory.) Subaru's like the WRX and STi use the mercury measurement in factory form.
I've also seemed to find an average on the SDU forums of 1 bar being the maximum boost any nylon/ceramic turbo will take.. But I also read a very interesting thread that several people stated they made maximum horsepower actually on 10PSI to 12PSI rather than maxed out at 15PSI.. But again, that's merely people's experiences and really isn't representative of any kind of general rule...
I'm currently running my stock RB25 turbo at 10PSI with a Greddy S14 FMIC cooling it, and I feel pretty "safe" about turning it up to 1 bar if I wanted to.. however, I'm just going to swap a T3 from a Z31 and be done with it.. I've already busted one ceramic wheel and have no desire to do a second. By the way, if you bust the compressor wheel you can damage the engine, but I don't think you can hurt it with the exhaust wheel, which is what I broke.
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A electronic boost controller controls the waste gate via a solenoid that gets its signal from the control box that gets it signal from a electronic boost sensor.
If you set it at 25 psi you get 0 PSI to the WG until the controller senses 25 PSI.
With a manual boost controller all its doing is restricting the boost pressure to the actuator causing it to open later.
Ok, so there is actually an electromechanical setup there with the EBC's. Good to know. I've only actually seen MBC's, so I've been wondering for a while.
Thanks Stony.
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AHHHH! Ok, so now I understand what's going on.. Basically with an external it's exactly the same as fooling a regular internal with a T-in style MBC, it's just electronic instead...
Thanks guys.
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Yeah, I was mostly aware of the theory behind the two.. heh.. (Great explanation though!)
What I was not aware of was whether or not an EBC could be used in conjuction with an external wastegate, which I thought was also a mechanical style gate.. (Spring loaded piston basically...?) From what I understand, external's control boost via a pre-determined load spring which opens a valve, rather than a diaphram/actuator like the internals..
If that's correct, then how does the EBC control an external? Or is it a "fool the wastegate" style thing exactly like you do with an internal?
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So I'm carefully piecing togethor which manifold, turbo and wastegate selection I'm applying to my RB25 in the very near future, and I suddenly realized I have no idea about external wastegates.
After a little bit of shopping, I've come to realize the vast majority of wastegates are non-adjustable.. which is strange considering I've been told in the past several times that the proper way to control boost levels is with the remote wastegate...
So... my question is... Do I just slap an external wastegate and ignore it considering the PowerFC will control the boost, or do I have to make sure I get a wastegate that matches or exceeds the boost level I plan to run?
I'm planning on running 7PSI daily and 25+PSI on the dyno/track... (70MM turbo)...
Hopefully what I'm asking here makes sense... sorry if it's a "newbie" question but I didn't realize I knew so little about wastegates until I started upgrading from an internal to an external... heh...
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Well, I'm about to order the roll cage and harnesses.. then I can install the seats and put the entire interior in.
After that, exterior paint and put the R32 cluster in, plus all the little cosmetic BS to get it aesthetically finished.
Then I get to move on to the toys.
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Great, thanks yet again for a valuable piece of advice.
Jamie, I didn't 'buy' the car. I had it built. This is called learning about a new engine and tweaking it the way you want.
I'm pretty sure it isn't boost creep though. It's too precise and regular it seems like. In my experience, boost creep is a gradual kind of leak.. This is very precise.. It runs exactly 7psi, then 10, then 12.. Never changes. I'll still trace the lines and see what's connected. I was merely guessing that it had some sort of factory EBC similiar to the SRT-4's and WRX's. Thanks again.
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Ok, thanks for the help.
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I'm using the TurboXS Type S on my RBZ, and I haven't experienced any leaks or problems so far.
It's a little loud for my tastes, but it looks pretty decent I guess and performs the function.
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So apparently the RB25 engine has a factory EBC (Electronic Boost Controller) like the SRT-4 and WRX employ. My car seems to run 7psi in 1st, 10 in 2nd, and 12 in the rest of the gears...
Does anybody know exactly what EBC is used, where it's located and what the bypass procedure is for it? I would like to stabilize my boost to 10psi in all gears since I've got the FMIC to cover it.
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I'm just trying to establish exactly what straight bolt-on turbo's, preferably with identifying numbers or donor car, that will drop straight onto the RB25 block...
I've been told many things about different turbos fitting or not fitting, so I figured I would ask and try to get something more concrete to go from. I'm in the market for a turbo upgrade in the near future, and I want to make sure I get this right first shot.
I did a search, but only found alot of discussions on upgrade trim and sizes, so if I missed a thread covering this I apologize in advance.
Nissan Datascan on RB25DET?
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Hey guys, just wanted to pitch in here. I've got a RB25DET S2, and I ordered my Blazt setup and Consult connector from Jerry here a while ago.. I hooked it up and have played with Nissan Datascan and the Datalogger quite a bit. If you're running a factory computer, it's definitely worth it to pick one up. I was able to quickly determine I had a coil pack going out and my ECT sensor was failing after one run.
It's a great piece of software and the tech support they gave me was outstanding. Most important things with the wiring is making sure you have GND and a good 12V source on that consult port. I can post up the wire colors and such should you need them.
I'm very happy with mine and highly recommend it to anyone with an RB or a consult connection for that matter.