jevmaster5
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Posts posted by jevmaster5
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Can somebody at least scan the manuals, and spec sheets? The idea being us n/a guys can have fun with the daily driver, so we can build a proper rocket
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IT'S BAAAAAAAACCCCKKK. But this time....differently. The car started perfectly, warmed up, and pulled out of the driveway. I get 1/2 a mile down the road, the car dies, doing the same stupid clicky thing with the relays. Okay, I pull over, pop the hood, and clean all the wires. nothing. After about 30min of trying crap, I roll start it. IT WORKS. This time I make it about 1/4 of a mile. It hasn't run since, its been about 2.5 hrs... I'm going to try to throw on a charger tomorrow, and see what that does, i suspect nothing... ALSO, now my starter is having issues. I turn the key to start, and it engages perfectly for about 2 revolutions, and then, as best I can tell, the Bendix retracts, but continues to gain speed (like it should.) I have tried it many times, all now with the same result. HELP, its my daily driver, and I dont really own a back up.
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I just cleaned the cables themselves. there was a good bit of superficial corrosion on them, and having removed that, I feel dumb. problem solved, car runs better than ever!
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get your battery load tested sounds bad from your description. Be sure your battery cable terminals are clean and corrosion free. If you have those one size fit all clamp-ons get some real cables. What is a morot?
battery is good, and I cleaned all the terminals. Sorry, meant to type Motor* and Ill try cleaning the cables themselves, since I do have aftermarket connectors, but OE cables.
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My daily driver is a 82/83 280. I recently put a rebuilt morot in it, and am about 100mi in to the break in period. Sunday, I left my lights on and killed the battery. I managed to get a jump, and make it home. Apparently I did not run it long enough to charge properly. Monday, when I went to start it to warm it up, it managed to crank it once or twice, but never start it. Fine, so I grab the battery charger, and hook it up. After about 20min of trying to get it start, it finally does. then promptly died. both the EFI and fuel pump relays are clicking like crazy, the fuel pump doesn't actually run, and now there isnt power at the coil.
Ive checked all the fusible links i know of (near the battery) and the fuses under the dash. I REALLY need help, as I have no more ideas what the problem is.
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Thanks phil! What brand were yours?
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Alright, so suspension it is. The only problem is that my father might not allow me to put them on (the car is in his name for insurance reasons,) but I hope so.... Any brand suggestions? I know that Suspension techniques does a kit, and that runs about $215. I can get the Eibach Pro-Line kit for about 300, as well....
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I'm planning on painting my Z to black, and getting covers and tinting them, so my vote is TINTI'm in the process in looking at getting some lenses for my black S130 and was wondering whether to go clear or tinted.Whats the consenses?
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She corners like a monster. I'm not sure what type of comparison this is, but I'm able to spank my friend's talon, which is lowered/on perf. springs (not sure brand.) So, no worries there
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That's what I keep hearing. I was under the impression it would make more sense to wait on the springs, and do a full spring/shock swap together
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Alright, in about a month or two, I will be purchasing SOMETHING for my Z. However, I have a dilemma; I can purchase a header and lowering springs for about the same price (around $250.) I'm just trying to get opinions from people who have done both, and what their experience would suggest. At present, I have a stock suspension, as well as a cold air intake and cat-back exhaust. I do realize that its a matter of personal opinion, but I am going to do both of them in the end, so it's just a matter of the timing of it all.
On the matter of headers, which brand/company/entity would provide the biggest OVERALL boost (torque+HP?)
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alright, i cant claim to be an expert, as i dont YET have enough experience. BUT, i,too, have an exhaust leak at the header, and have backfiring at that same rpm, so my vote is that it IS due to the leak
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yeah, no worries on the arm rests, mine are fine. its just the top of the panels are faded and cracking like crazy
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Really my only real complaint with the S130 was that they gave you a taste of how awesome speakers reflecting off of the windshield sound but then compromised it by putting the "left" speaker to the right of the driver. (passengers got the good sound)
Anybody who's driven a GM car with a nice set of front speakers knows the awesome stereo separation and "in your face" sound this setup gives you.
first off, i love both the s30 and the 130. i own only a 83 n/a..... i love it, and though i do want to get it faster, and more crisp, I love how i can STILL hang with 4yr "sports cars" in my 26 yr old car. i do slightly preffer the looks of the s30, and can appreciate the lightness, but i think that as the design changed, it was a good trade off. i drive my 280 EVERY day, and rather enjoy not feeling like i just had a bar fight in my car
as far as sound goes, ive got mine with about the very best i could find... and for the placement issue, i put Alpine type-r component speakers in the back, and placed the tweeters on the dash, aimed at the seats. they do a GREAT job of making a REALLY large sound stage, and help keep the system balanced w/the 2 JL's in the back
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alright, so how much you want for those panels? i just got the okay for them... how is the front carpet? i might be interested in that if its in good condition. and i think i might go for the side badges. im learning how expensive and hard these cars are to work on. ive spent now about to be 200 in parts to do a diff swap, rear wheel bearing replacement, and rear pads
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from what i read it should have an r200 since its either an 82 or 83 i believe. i am going to check the vin and validate the year for sure and i will hopefully get the diff out on sat. i can have pics of it then.
that works. my 83 has a 180, and being a ...... to swap out (im doing it as we speak....)
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on the wheels, i was mostly joking... for the badges, thats better than mine. my side badges are devoid of all chrome, and miss a lot of the back (so the are like pure white now) and thats fine on the panels... i got mostly intact doors, but the top of the panels is fading severely, and the driver doos has cracks growing like kudzoo
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also, how much for the side/rear badges?
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alright, i suppose its time to do mine. it had 153k on it when i got it, its not about to hit 167k a year later. and i drive it every day XD
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i would like to get around i dunno 500 for the motor and transmission as a complete assembly. i dont really wanna seperate the two, i would also like it to be picked up or i can meet whoever half way as long as it isnt to far. i live in yankton south dakota 57078. let me know what you guys think. i am open to offers however.
crap. i would like to have an actual `83 tranny in my 130. but i dont really need a motor. if it was a turbo, id kill for 500 for both...
i do NEED your door panels, so id like a price for those, and when you could ship them, and for how much. MIGHT take those seats... mine came leather, would like to go back with leather, but i cant find any shop that can get the cloth pieces for them, so ill talk to my father (helping me restore the car.) and im more than willing to take the wheels off the orange car off your hands
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not sure on the rear end, it has a manual tranny though.
any idea how much you want for that tranny?
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what rear end does that thing have (r180/r200,) also, is it an auto, or a stick?
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ill second that!i no none of this is helping but.. i would sell my legs to turbo my car... i wouldn't be able to drive it but I'd have a turbo zx. -
here we go, sorry about the quality, but i only have my phone's camera, and as you can see, im still using the tranny.
i got 3 diff angles, and i could find NO other badges than that casting number.
http://i27.tinypic.com/ay3k35.jpg
WTB HKS s130 catback
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I am looking for a HKS s130 exhaust. I am aware that they are very rare, however I have seen murmers that they still exist. I am offering $300-$350 USD for a genuine piece. I MIGHT be willing to negotiate for more depending on the situation