oldzdood

thanks for responding EuroDat, i think you are right about the rings and thanks for the part info. i think the bad o-rings leaked when i tightened the collar and somehow backing just the nut at the end of the cable off a bit stopped the leak....maybe from o-ring rubber flopping around. anyway, i will order the parts and go for it. thanks a bunch!

hi Domzs thanks for helping me again. try again: there are 2 things to tighten, the line nut and the threaded collar which attaches to transmission. when i tightened the collar the line nut moved with the collar. as i tightened the 2 which moved together a small leak started. i loosened the line nut which did not back off the threaded collar and the leak stopped so i stopped at that point. if u need a pic of the cable attachment i will get one.

oops. it is a stock 77 280z 2+2 transmission.

i got brave and crawled under the beast after steam cleaning. there is a leak at the transmission located at the speedometer cable. i have done some research and figure that the O rings inside the pinion are bad? after cleaning i inspected the cable at the transmission and it was loose to the point that i could easily tighten the collar on the line to transmission by hand. is this the adjustment for the speedometer or should this be tight? the speedometer cable has a nut and a collar which are both adjustable and both were loose. while tightening both the nut and collar move together. when loosening the line the nut type adjuster moves independently from the collar. is this normal? i am going to take it apart and replace the O rings but i am worried about tightening this cable after repair. i am not trusting my instincts on this one. excuse my ignorance but i am slowly coming up to speed with the average site member here. should take me 10 years or so and i am so there.

actually u r right. sorry 'bout that. my degree is in math but i hate typing and actually don't know how to capitalize.

I have got one really concise, properly punctuated and complete sentence for you. One word starts with "F" and the other word starts with "Y". Thanks for your positive comments.

i appreciate all the input guys. well it turns out the hazard switch was FILTHY and cleaning was all that was needed for the system. all works: turn signals, hazards and my dash indicator lights are brighter (unless i'm on drugs..hhmm). so i order the signal flasher for nada. thanks Domzs! and thanks bludestiny i will check for the leaks when i crawl under soon. now remember guys i am an old fart. i am suffering from TSB.

hey Domzs, thanks for response. i just went through suspension and tires. the noise is a low frequency vibration coming from tranny area. i was going to have the tranny rebuilt and a new clutch anyway as they are original so we'll see. the guy that did the suspension work says the drive train appears fine. i will look at the halfshafts when i figure out what and where they are (laugh) what should i look for and which loose parts are you talking about? i can crawl under and examine. i will pull the haz switch and clean. let u know what happens. thx again. (u guys are the best)

hello guys, i've got a 77 280 2+2 that i am restoring. i picked an arbitrary place to start with suspension, struts, tires, rotten rubber parts (sway bar stuff), brakes, tires. i've brought the engine up to speed and runs great. someone did a half ass job of restoring and let it sit for 10 years. just fought thru a fuel delivery issue caused by the fuel pressure regulator and gunked up charcoal canister. my gas tank is shot...no comeback. does anyone know of a place that sells new gas tanks maybe stainless? also i have an issue with the turn signals and hazard flasher and/or switch. i've read a lot on this issue but thought i would ask if anyone has been through a troubleshooting sequence with this. my hazard was not working before the light signals stopped flashing. i ordered a new flasher for the signals. could the switch for the hazard lights be the root of the problems? should i replace the switch and haz flasher or does cleaning help anything? in what order should i replace parts? thanks a lot for any input as you guys have helped me immensely with my work so far. i have just read previous postings to get ideas. thanks again. wait another question: if your clutch is fried but working what signs do i look for. i get a low end prominent vibration type rumble when over 55mph. also leaks a little fluid from tranny/clutch area. please take pity on my dumb soul as i have a mess going with this little moron car. the engine is scary tight. i put new fuel lines and injection, wiring and relays, and vacuum parts on the motor. got a straight thru exhaust low flow catalytic w/k&n air filter. only 144k on original. runs like bat out of hell. thank god for something right. other than that it is a rust bucket from hell.

howdy, i've had this 280 2+2 for awhile. i've really got it running about as good as it has ever run in 25 plus years. 2 questions for all you guys that know way more than me about these rice rockets (70's term) than i do. whenever i run this dude after it sits it vapor locks if you start while still warm. if i leave the hood unlatched it seems to help. very annoying. Also, the fuel mix seems to change randomly but slowlt changes back and forth. run's best when cold. i think it needs new connectors on all electrical anything. it's very clean but i am getting pissed about the random performance of this monster. it's got new f'in everything .... help expert Z people

whoa dude .. CA is beautiful and full of non-eastern cool people. say hello to canada from all you cold people who experience cold start valve failure often. say hello to Malibu, Carmel and Huntington beaches where fun is in the sun baby.

thanks zedsn, it turns out not only were the vapor lines bad but also the filler neck?**& it took me quite a few phone calls and internet searches to find one for 20.00....next test the jerk smog guys.

zedsn, thx for responding. i will pull the tank and trace the hoses and replace them. what type of hose should i get?

hi guys, there is a new part of the Ca smog test that checks vapor pressure from the tank. they take your gas cap out and put this cap on that has a pressure line going to the test recorder. he pinched off a line from the carbon canister or thereabouts before testing. engine is tight and runs great. passed all parts of test except this portion. does anyone know what type lines come out of the tank...i believe there are 3 coming out of the tank from the upper/side front side that look completely shot. i've tried finding them on the net with no luck so i'm hoping to be able to make the lines and clamp them in or any suggestions are welcomed.