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earlycanz

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About earlycanz

  • Birthday June 12

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    http://www.autogrotto.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario Canada

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  1. I know this is an older thread but I just picked up a set of Chowini's which are Enkeis in the cross lace design or as some call them mesh rims. They are brand new and in the 14 x 7 size. They have the center screw on chrome plastic nut which holds down a smoked plexiglass wheel center which has the following on it...."Aero Bortex's aluminum spindle rotor is transformingengine air int an ally. An air eddy, created by the spindle, results in no-heat, immediate acceleration--one intoxicating in its power and performance." What all of this means I have no idea, anyone else have any idea. I will post a photo if anyone is interested, they look like an Enkei 92 without the dish and a different center.
  2. I have made it a point to not deal with this vendor. After purchasing an item last year from him the postage he charged was at least 10 times what he actually paid and the item also had inferior packaging so it arrived damaged. When I took him to task on these issues i got a smartass reply then after that he simply chose not to respond. I cannot understand how he maintains a decent rating on Ebay. Maybe we all need to just make a point of not buying from this vendor and pass that information on somehow.
  3. I am looking for either 4 rims (don't need the tires and too expensive to ship) and someone willing to ship them. I can live with a pair if they are 14 inch. Obviously on this forum they are for a 240Z.
  4. I have a stock 71 Z series one car that I am not happy with. Not that is not a great car (now that is a stupid statement, what Z isn't a great car) but I have owned Hybrid Zs all along and thought I would try a stock one this time which turns out to be a mistake for me. I am in Canada and I recently imported it as the 2nd owner of the car. Rust free and a southern car it had a refurbishing back in 2000 where it got paint, some work, bumpers etc. Stock rims, slots and even a set of Cheviots if the deal is right. Updated with a 5 speed but that is it for mods. This is a hard ad to place...on a Hybrid site everyone is looking for a hybrid and on a classic site everyone who is looking has a classic. Where do you post an ad like this? If the trade thing doesn't work this will get converted to a V8 which is a shame for anyone wanting a stock Z in great shape, especially an early series one car like this. I would think his car is worth in the vicinity of $7,500. You want to save it get in touch.
  5. Actually does anyone know of an aftermarket slave for a T5. I have not been successful in finding one.
  6. Long time between replies!!!!!!! Has anyone done the hydraulic hose conversion for a stock T5 slave. I have a Wilwood master and the hose is the problem at the slave end. I read the manual (JTR) but don't quite follow the hacksawing of 1/8" off of the casing. Can anyone help here.
  7. Thanks for all the advice. The style I have is the latest. It was the replacement for the original style I had purchased. I have already replaced the o rings once in it and Mcleod actually sent me an o ring set also but delivery and brokerage, customs etc is very pricey. Feedback to McLeod you ask, I have had several conversations with Les and supplied measurements etc to him. I think once you are handled a few times and they can't solve the problem you get ingnored, at least that is my perception now. I have tried to get either Les or Red to respond to me....nothing. I have previously used and recommended to many, many people their clutches but I do not any more as this is not only a customer relation but quality problem and if I am treated with this indifference I won't subject others to it. There just seems to be too much print all over the internet on this product when you look for it. I have several different cars and because of that subscribe to several forums and this product does come up often enough that I will not replace it. You are right with the comment that is looks to be a high quality product but if it fails as often as this appears to then what use is it. I don't think hobby guys like us should be the ones figuring out what they are doing wrong and compromising a "highly engineered product" with home repairs that they will not warranty. I just want to get the product installed in my car and have it do what they advertise it will do. Anyway I am on my way to a "stock" setup and of course would have a new McLeod throwout bearing available to post for sale if I wanted to subject someone to the same aggrevation. I am sure there will be a need for some more advice as I begin to convert this over since I have read there are also adjustment issues with the stock setup. What do some of you fellows have that has worked.
  8. Can anyone offer some assistance with this conversion. I have a McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing (3rd one now) and less than 200 miles on all 3 of them in total and they all have leaked. Even their new design. I can remove my transmission in my sleep now thanks to constant replacement of this product. The 1st 2 were professionally installed so I don't believe it is an installation problem. McLead will not even answer my emails any more so I have an expensive throwout bearing gathering garage dust but I understand this is a problem for many many people using this product. What I need to know (I am not a mechanic, just a quick study) is what do I need for parts to convert back to a factory GM clutch release system. My transmission is a WC T5 from a 90's Camaro behind an early 327 with about 350hp gross. I have a Wilwood master already in, just purchased a "stock style" throwout bearing and slave cylinder. That is all I have and I am intending to stay with the T5 which is newly built. What is needed to complete this....clutch fork and ??????????? Since I am doing this myself very specific information would be greatly appreciated. Because I am in Canada and the problem of sending these hydraulics back and forth to McLeod in California my car has been off the road since last Novemeber, I have given up on their product and i just want to get mobile again.
  9. Not being a mechanic or done this before I was hoping someone could tell me what I need in terms of specific hardware. Once I know what parts I need I am logical enough to figure out how to do it myself. When I installed the drivetrain the hydraulic was recommended so I purchased a McLeod. I have tried both the original design and the new design and both have started to leak within 100 miles. When I purchased the transmission there were no mechanical/hydraulic fittings or throw out bearing on it so I am not sure what I need.
  10. Anyone out there have a mechanical clutch setup in their v8 240z with a 5 speed. I have my 3rd hydraulic throwout bearing leaking with less than 300 miles on all 3 of them! I have given up and want a good old fashioned mechanical. Anyone help me with this process and what I will need.
  11. Thanks Terry, that is exactly what is wrong. The bearing buts up against it. When I returned the 1st bearing I had for the upgrade Mcleod tech told me the replacement was a spin on (like the old one), it looks different but is threaded on the back as the other so I was told to just spin it on. It looks like it should replace the input shaft bearing retainer but I was told no... just spin it onto what you have. Look at the shots I posted in my gallery. It does not look right and does not sit right with me to do it this way but I respect the techical knowledge of the manufacturer. There must be something I am missing here.
  12. I am new to the this forum but not to V8 Hybrids. I have a problem fitting my WC T5 transmission with a Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing to my 327. The transmission had an early Mcleod bearing which of course leaked and I had it replaced with the 2 nd generation spin on bearing. The transmission slides in fine without the bearing but with the bearing will not go any further than about 1/2 inch from sitting flush against the bellhousing. Any one done this, do you "draw the transmission" in by gradually bolting it down or should this slide in easily right up to the bell housing? Has anyone had this experience?
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