Sven
-
Posts
362 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Sven
-
-
Here's a little better markup. I am asking for the length of the yellow lines I've drawn in.
-
1
-
-
Thanks 72240Z. Yes, jhm, you got it, looking for the length of the yellow line. To everyone else, i just scribbled this quickly on my phone while in a doctors waiting room. And yes, I'm working on an LED insert.
-
Does anyone have a 240z taillight handy to grab me some measurements? I would really appreciate someone getting out their tape measure for a minute. My car and parts aren't nearby or available on short notice right now.
I need general width and height of both color sections (not reverse light). Ideally, just inside the upper inside end around the curve and vertical to the middle horizontal, as crudely scribbled in my attached drawing (in yellow). I'm sure you can see where this is going...
Thanks for the help guys!
-
Rick, thanks for the info.
I have 17x9.5 and 12.5, already have 315's and planning on 275 fronts.
With my mustang offset front brakes and wheels it should end up close to yours
... Just thinking out loud, keep up the good work!
-
Rick, I've just found your work on your Z body. I had a question -What size wheels/tires are you working with?
I really like what you're doing.
-
nrS30,
Did you also end up with the mould for the headlight cover?
Thanks I will email the guy selling the white one.
I found as much info as I could. I recently acquired the Jim cook moulds to make this complete kit, plus some other air dams and wings.
Just want to see what people know about them and if anyone knew where any of the kits where these days.
I hear there the steel bodied original California Z pictured is in Tampa fl so where. Would love to talk to him.
And Tim, thanks for being a smart a**. I am one too:)
-
Here are the pics. Luckily I saved them
Vote for HybridZ most useful humanitarian post of the year!
-
Good work, a lot of excellent info here . I'm excited to see where you take this. The Merc V12 is a little used motor (in any car) you seem to be working out a lot of the kinks.
-
tide75,any thoughts on weight differences after handling the removal and air strut install?
-
While we have this ancient thread bumped...
The head cross sections are awesome to study and compare. I missed this one way back in '03.
I would like to mention something to correct a misconception for anyone else reading this thread in the future. Maybe I'm being pedantic, but the O.P. completely neglected including (subtracting) the diameter of the valve stem from the valve seat throat. The effective diameter ends up being around 1.391" versus the 1.525" mentioned, assuming a 5/16" stem. So, it's not a huge mismatch between intake port and seat at all. Sixteen thousandths, not fifteen hundredths. That number is an over simplification, but a decent ballpark.
Back to our regular scheduled programming...
-
If you look a little further down the page, there are actual pics of the real car, it looks like flat black or grey. Not sure if this car is the blue Z revamped, or if that was just to show an example of a powerful Toyota L6 swap?
-
They're downdraft, aren't they?
-
Any chance you could scan or take a better pic so that everything in the ad is legible?
I put one of those on my green 73 that I got BNIB with a parts car.
-
In for the raffle
-
Looking on Fontana's website from one of the previous links, it appears to me that they are cnc'ing their own aluminum bock and copies of LS heads. Their listed data does no mentio bore spacing, but the deck height is in the ballpark to be a 4 cylinder LS3. I'm not in a position to do this now, but has anyone contacted them about the crank for their "new" midget engine? I have dreams of a dry sump ITB titanium rod flat crank LS7 dancing in my head.
-
I dont know that I ever posted pictures of it on here before and its probably not the lightest choice... but here is what I did.
In the second photo is my SPA kitdash. When I added up all the cost of individual gauges wiring and messing with fuel senders the cost of the dash made a lot of sense. I made an account with SPA they gave me a deal. It is a SWEET setup.
I really like your setup alot. I do wonder if you will have an issue in sunlight though.
-
Cool,
Where did you get the board from and how much? I've been thinking about an Atom N450 hidden desktop myself.
-
John,
It is not quite as simple as a merge collector. I think you're missing the "cool outside air" entering point in his drawing. I believe what Prox is describing is also known as an eductor nozzle/pump. It's used in shipboard dewatering among other things.
The usage in that case is to pump a volume of water through that nozzle, drawing a suction on that secondary ring, which pumps/pulls fluid along with the original fluid pumped in.
The same concept as used on newer diesel exhausts is a method of pulling in a high volume of cool ambient air to cool the tip and exhaust gas leaving the diesel particulate filter at potentially litigious temperatures.
-That being said, I don't believe it will work in the manner hoped for. The problem is that your low pressure point is the opposite of where you want it. Unless you plan on running very rich and using a secondary ignition system... like John said
-
I really like your linkage and "L-crank" setup, wish something that nice existed for sidedrafts (without spending TWM level of money, that is).
-
Count me interested too. I've never liked the quality of the repros, or NOS weatherstripping I have.
-
For me it's Lagavulin. Smokey, peaty, just right.
My old roommate recently gave his sister $500 to buy the best scotch she could get her hands on (she's lived in Scotland for 3 or 4 years now). I think I may need to visit him...
-
I'm afraid that you guys are making this too complicated. Here is how the swap goes. Your Subaru rearend (call it whatever you like) is relatively new. The seals are probably fine. The rear cover is the same. Leave the thing alone. Pull the output flanges with a puller or two leavers (screwdrivers work). Put John's new output flanges in - light tap with hammer and block of wood. Take your Z input flange off with an impact wrench, a 27mm socket and a gear puller. Do the same with the Subaru flange. Put the Z input flange on the Subaru input shaft and torque it as best you can (spec is 125 ftlbs). Put oil and LSD lube in the Subaru differential (1 quart). Put the differential in the car and hook up the half-shafts and drive shaft with the original hardware. Go racing. The rear cover studs are longer on the Subaru diff. Swap them if you can - mine were in too tight. I left them. It made for a bit more wrestling, but I still got it in. This is a 1-day job tops - a couple of hours if you are good and have the tools I listed.
You deserve something for that post! To the point and simple. It was pretty much what I initially suspected, but this thread and the endless dialogue made me start believing there was going to be more involved in the swap.
-
Autozone has code readers that will work. Don't get hung up on the OBD1 crap, you just need a run of the mill EFI code reader or flasher with a Ford adaptor. Or, you could just get the CEL codes and start counting flashes. I forget what the trick is to trigger them, it's been a while since I bought my reader.
-
I have a similar problem. My stroker came with a Malvern Racing cam, but the PO had no paperwork with specs. He said he asked Malvern for, " A decent street cam for a stroker with triples". Not exactly specific. It does not seem too rowdy, but just wondering if I should re-use it come rebuild time as I have the big Schneider cam sitting around.
With the death of the owner, Malvern disappeared. For a short bit I was able to find cached versions of the webpages, but nothing of use and they are gone now. Does anyone have a price list, parts list, copy of their website, old cam card... anything?
I can pull the valve cover again and get the part number (I lost the post it).
Looking for Taillight Dimensions
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Thank you very much good sir!