namz7791

Any input on which of the 2 that you have is better? Thanks,

I am in the market for a plasma cutter and you can get some of the knock-off cutters from Ebay for under $400. Has anyone ever tried one of these and do they work? I expect that they wont last as long as a name brand but can buy 3 of them for the price of the name brand. Thanks

I have a 77 280Z with a 355 Chevy and T5 set up. I am currently running Patriot sidepipes on the car. The engine has a mild cam (Comp 270H grind) so it has a noticeable idle. The car is in the garage to get the body work done this winter. I had to move it the other day with out the side pipes hooked up and MAN! what a different sounding engine ( and no, not just louder!). The lopey idle became very noticeable with just the headers and about a 1' section of tubing. When the side pipes are on the cam is no where near as distinct. Finally my question: If I replace the approximately 3' long straight thru muffler in the side pipes with a shorter one, keeping the diameter the same (3") will this help the sound of the idle to be more noticeable? or is it strictly related to the length of the pipe and changing the muffler length will not have any affect? Thanks to all who reply.

The hood is from betamotorsports and really looks great! I emailed them and they indicated that I needed to make plates similar to the factory plates and should install threaded inserts in the hood itself in the area where the hinges attach. They didn't have any photos to send me so I could see what they meant. So any photos of actual installs would really help.

Just got my fg cowl hood for my 280Z. It is set up to attach to the factory hinges. Does anyone have any photos of the steel plates required to go between the hood and factory hinges. Help would be greatly appreciated!

Excuse me should be TBI or was a throttle body engine.

Hey guys. Alot of stuff on CA emissions in the search mode. Wasnt able to find anything regarding Las Vegas. I have a job opportunity in Las Vegas and currently own a 77 280Z with a Chevy 350 in it which doesn't have any of the smog stuff on it. Engine was out of an 88 Suburban with TPI and now is carburated and such. Any one know the rules in Nevada or maybe a link to the state site that I could search on? Thanks in advance.

Hood looks great! Do you have a web site for the manufacturer? What about cost and fitment? Do you know if you can get it without the side vents?

Mike, Thanks for the info. The picture didn't come thru though - just says image by some web site. Please try the pic again. Also, what fuel pump did you go with? Thanks

Yep - I have a filter between the tank and the pump. I talked directly to Holley and they indicated that the pump does have a thermal overload device built into the pump. Since the pump worked again a little while later they think that the pump is ok it just overheated. Low fuel flow to the pump is usually the culprit. I mounted the pump in the same location as the Z stock pump. I am wondering if I am not getting enough gravity feed to the pump when the tank gets around half full since the line has to go up and over the half shaft. Does any one have a better way or place to mount these pumps to ensure constant flow? Thanks!

I was on my way to work this morning when my 77 Z decided to die at a red light. It didn't take long to notice that my fuel pump was not buzzing merrily along even with my primer switch. After sitting on the side of the road for about 10 to 15 minutes the pump started working again and I continued my journey to work. I have had the car on the road for a month now and have had no fuel pump operating issues, but on my test drives I was driving the Z pretty hard and using the fuel up. On my way to work I was in traffic so just drove casually along. My pump is the Holley red, does anyone know if they have some sort of built in thermal protection that shuts them down if they start to overheat when fuel is not passing thru as fast as required? I do not have a return line - should I put one in to keep the pump pumping and not use its internal regulator? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info everyone! I have exhausted the bleeding route and wish to pursue the longer rod approach. What are you guys using for a longer rod on the slave? or does someone manufacture these? Any insite will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

On my 77 280Z I used the JTR kit and installed a Tilton 7/8" master cylinder and am using the stock slave cylinder off a 89 Camaro T5 set up. I cut 3/8" off the rod per the JTR manual and installed. My problem is the clutch is basically at the floor. It releases fine but is a pain to drive with it so near the floor. I used the stock clevis from the Z and the rod is only a few threads into the nut welded on the clevis. I cannot get the pedal to release higher up since I am out of rod. If I screw the rod into the nut any further the clutch will not release all of the way. Has anyone else ran into this? I was thinking about using a longer clevis or a longer rod off of the slave cylinder. I have bled and bled the system and just do not get any more air. Looks like I should have not shorted the rod per the book. How did the rest of you T5ers handle this? Thanks in advance!

Thanks Mike I appreciate all of the great support the moderators on this site provide

Hi Mike, That is not the picture. when I go to Photo album and hit General Photos and then sort on date with the "+" or ascending order the picture comes out on page 61. It is now 722 of 723 as someone has just added a picture of a drag racing Z. Thanks again for your help It is a white Z car drivers side shot from back to front.

I just wired in a toggle switch so I can prime the fuel system prior to starting. The toggle energizes the fuel pump after the oil switch.

I finally figured out how to set up my photo album. The pictures can be viewed on page 9 of the Users galleries under namz7791 photo album. Does any one know how to post pictures to the forums?

Please delete picture 722 of 722 in the General Photos section. It was justed posted a couple of hours ago. It is a back to front side shot of a white 77 280Z 2+2. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP

I uploaded pictures to my album I created but didn't realize that you had to select which album each time. One of the pictures ended up under general photos and I would like to either move it to my folder or delete it. How do I go about doing this or can someone at Hybridz do this for me? My album is namz7791. Thank you.

Went for the first test drive last night and WOW I got the car the last week of December 03 and have it on the road in 8 months including suspension rebuild for those wondering how long it takes a rookie at this. Still have some wiring gremlins to work out but what a ride and I even did the patriot side pipes! Thanks to all of you and JTR who have provided info along the way

I have the 7th Edition of the JTR Manual. On page 9-6 it shows a schematic of the basic wiring. Wire 1 shows it being attached to wire 2 which goes to the fuel pump from the chrysler fuel pump switch. Wire 1 is called a starter by pass circuit and says to see page 13-2. Wire 10 Black-Yellow says to connect to S terminal on starter soelnoid and to connect to Wire 1 above to provide power to electric fuel pump during cranking and also refers to page 13-2. Page 13-2 talks about the Chrysler fuel pump switch which I am using and that this energizes the fuel puimp when there is oil pressure. The next paragraph down talks about pumping without oil pressure. The following paragraph tells you to not connect the wire that operates the fuel pump to the starter solenoid because when the pressure switch turns on so will the starter. It goes on to state to hook up a black-blue wire to the fuel pump wiring if using an HEI which I am. I AM SO CONFUSED Page 9-6 tells you to exactly what page 13-2 tells you not to. Could some one please tell me the correct way to wire the pump when using the Chrysler fuel pump pressure switch! Thanks in advance! By the way side pipes are on and all that is left is wiring to bring life to the beast

Tekira - glad to hear that you got it going! I am facing a similar issue on my 77 280Z. Does the 5/16" fitting screw into the metric threads or did you have to tap them? Is this something that could be accomplished with the tank in the car? Did you continue to run the fuel line in the stock location or did you flatten it out and go under a non pivoting point on the rear suspension? Was a high flow fuel filter required between the pump and the tank? Thanks in advance for your insight!

I have about 6 gallons in the tank right now, so it is common for the pumps to not do well without a sump of some kind? I did block my vent line and have the return line blocked as well and then pressurized the tank with my air compressor. This really didn't help. I did pressurize the tank before I hooked up the pump and had a nice steady siphon going thru the filter and all. Does anyone know if the return line inlet can be used as an additional suction point for the fuel pump to aid in the parallel filters that holley recommends? I don't know if it places fuel into the bottom of the tank or runs it up to the top and then in. The inlet is lower than the actual outlet on the tank unless I grabbed the wrong one. Thanks!

I finally got my new 3/8" fuel line ran from the rear of my 77 Z to the engine compartment and hooked up the new Holley red pump. I placed a 3/8" hose on the original fuel tank outlet went 6" to a filter and then to the red pump that is mounted where the stock Z pump was located with new 3/8" fuel line along the original route used for the Z line. When I hooked up the power to make sure the pump worked I get a very irregular flow, almost as if it is sucking air or something, is this normal on an electric pump or should the flow be a steady stream? It quickly fills up a 2 gallon gas can that I was using to catch the gas near the engine but it just wasn't very steady. The pump never missed a beat so I know it is not an electrical problem with the pump. I even tried blocking of the fuel line to see if it built up pressure it would help but it still did the "spurty flow". I also noticed that the plastic filter is almost full when I start the pump but goes almost empty when the pump is on and the fuel seems to get "foamy" in the filter. Holley did recommend that 2 filters in parallel be used between the pump and the tank, is this because there are no filters that can flow as fast as a pump can pump? Also, I cannot seem to locate a "Y" fitting for 3/8" hose to do this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I have an 88 Chevy 350 and yes it is actually in the car . Used the JTR set up and am now working on the cooling. The JTR Camaro radiator doesn't have a nipple for the heater return line so they recommend using a T in the bottom radiator hose. I remember that the older Chevy's use to have a heater hose out of the water pump and then one out of the intake. The long water pump out of the 88 Burb had the top pipe thread plugged since the heater hoses attached to the radiator and the intake. Can I just take out the plug and insert a nipple for one of the radiator hoses? If so which out let should go into the heater core and which will act as the return? I don't want to have both hoses fighting each other with the flow at the heater core or it will never heat up. Thanks in advance!