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blaze73

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About blaze73

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  • Birthday 06/10/1983

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    Victoria BC
  1. I have a diff and one set of inner CV's that you can have for cheap. PM me for details.
  2. On the topic of foam...if you are planning on using foam to create a shape or for a core of some kind where it will be in direct contact with the resin be sure to check the compatibility of the foam and resin. Polyester resin will dissolve styrofoam and leave you with a gooey mess and a ruined part. Urethane foams are fine however. As for release agents, PVA is a liquid plastic that can be sprayed onto your part even with a common spray bottle and will form a film similar to plastic wrap between your mold and part. The nice part about it is that its not greasy and dissolves in water so y
  3. S13/14s are rear steer, the Z is front steer. You would have to essentially swap in a whole S13/14 front suspension for it to work.
  4. The Subaru rack is the most proven. All the info is here http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/46504-lt1-and-subaru-rack/ E30 setup was made to work in a 510 here http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74875-510-bart-sr20det-powered-wbmw-suspension/ You could alternatively install an electric steering column such as http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0018/s0001/FR40105 Other than that, start plundering junkyards with a tape measure.
  5. The rack needs to be from a front steer car so that limits your choices significantly. Other cars with front steer include: Mustang Miata Subaru BMW 3-series RX7 Probably some others? One of the main issues is that the Z is a very narrow car so most racks are too wide, placing the inner tie rod joints too far apart, causing geometry issues (bumpsteer).
  6. Thanks for the offer PR280z but I don'd imagine shipping 2 large pieces of metal from Puerto Rico to western Canada would be cheap. At this point I'm looking for another shell semi-locally or doing a tube frame front end.
  7. So I took the drivers fender off to see what secrets that would reveal and...well... I am going to give the rest of the car a once over for any more bad structural rust and if there's any there then I'm probably going to scrap it otherwise I think I will attempt a tube frame front end.
  8. Sorry, no progress to speak of...I have uncovered some serious rust issues and am trying to decide if I should attempt repairs before moving on. The project is still alive, just hibernating until more time/funds become available.
  9. The sheet metal in the engine bay has a few patch panels (some welded, some riveted), the main frame rails have some 90deg sheet welded over them, the floors have been replaced etc. The car has definitely had some work done in the past but most of it is in the open and no rust is showing through the paint or anything. There doesn't appear to be any patches in the rear of the chassis although I wouldn't be surprised if the body was full of bondo. Its going to be a autox car for the most part so it doesn't have to look pretty, I just want it structurally sound.
  10. Wanting opinions on my current discovery. PO had patched with an awesome combination of fiberglass and bits of cedar shingle to fill the gaps which was all undercoated over, hiding everything. Think its worth patching in new metal? Also half way considering a tube front end...other ideas?
  11. Good to see Nissan in endurance racing again! http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/02/10/new-cars-gt-gt-signatech-oreca-03-nissan-endurance-racecar.aspx
  12. Seems as though they will be making more! Get out your wallets. http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/07/27/gallery-gt-gt-a-quick-stop-os-giken.aspx
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