sparticus13

Is there anything that needs to be done to the ECU when you remove all that emissions and idle equipment/sensors? I was hoping to do away with it as well. I know with a lot of modern cars if certain sensors/equipment fail/disconnect the car will not run well. Fuel maps are altered/retarded, etc. Also does it cause a check engine or other dash light to come on? Thanks Chris

Looking again I realize that only the rods are forged. The pistons are cast and can be the weak spot at very high HP and extra boost. On that note anyone know if forged pistons are being made for the VG30ET. I can find various comps making them for the VG30DE and TT but nothing so far for VG30ET. It seems I could use these pistons for the VG30DE but would they require z32 Rods or Pins or could they be installed on the Z31 Rods and Pins. I am looking at these pistons but would prefer a VG30ET forged set. http://atomicspeedware.com/nissanvg30.aspx Thanks

Anyone have any comments about pistons and rods. I have been reading allot on redz31.net and learned that the VG30E engines already have forged rods and pistons and do very well. I plan on porting and polishings the heads. Is there any service work or replacements for pistons or rods that would be recommended. Thanks

Also I will be replacing all the vac hoses. I am considering this kit http://www.hiperformancestore.com/HoseKits.htm They have one for z31 turbo. Anyone have any info or comments on this kit or know of a good one. Price is not a concern for me, but quality and color option is. I would like either Red or Orange. And on that note I am thinking about CoolFlex for the rad and heater hoses. http://www.coolflex.com/cfm/welcome.cfm Again any info or know of other kits for this car. Thanks

Great info. The FSM is very nice. I have a haynes as well but can't compare to the FSM. So far I have a mix of tools from Harbor Freight and Lowes. I plan on getting the engine hoist and stand, trans jack stand and what not at HF to save some money. It sounds like a lot of peeps have used the china cheap stuff for project like this. I don't plan on doing much auto work after this car. Some of the hand tools that I felt I wanted quality in I got at Lowes. I did get a set of metric allen keys that are set in a socket for a ratchet as well as a standard set of L keys. I will have to get an impact gun. I guess the part I am most worried about is the wiring. Right now the current engine bay and efi harness have damage. Car runs ok but there are some broken connectors, spliced stuff, and missing connectors, as well as some dangling ones. Since I am going for show room quality I purchased a new EFI and engine bay harness. I work with computer builds all the time and it looks like a giant ATX PSU set of wires Just allot more. I think the task that is most daunting to me is the total replacement of the harness and getting it all reconnected when I'm done. So any info on harness tips would be great. Thanks

Thanks for the info. I was think of using Harbor Freight for some stuff. Any other suggestions/info is welcome.

Hi I'm new at all this. I am not a mechanic, I am an IT engineer but am very confident and can learn just fine. I have a Z31 1987 300ZX Turbo Auto GLL with Digital Gauges. I am planning a lot of mods for this car. I have spent the last month or so in research and am now ordering parts and tools. I just finished building my work bench. In the next month or so I will be ready to work on the car. I am planing on turning it into a show room race car. I will be having a shop do the body and paint. I will be doing the mechanical work. As part of the project I would like to pull the engine out and do a rebuild. New gaskets and what not. I also have a brand new EFI and Engine bay wire harness. I will be replacing the old damaged ones with. I am looking for any advise on tools, procedures, etc. I know the main tools and equipment I will need but recommendations on tools, brands, and types would be great. Also the best order and general steps to remove the engine. Thanks Chris

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I have a 1987 300ZX Turbo Auto. It has stock tires and wheels on it. I am planning on buying some new custom wheels and tires. According to http://www.az-zbum.com/information.wheels.and.tires.shtml My car has a stock of 16"x7" wheels with and offset of +30 on both front and rear. Has a bolt pat of 5x4(5x114.3). I am looking at a few different wheels right now. All have the same specs of: 17"x7", 5/114.3, 40mm offset. So its 10mm diff in offset. I tried looking at the guide on http://www.az-zbum.com/information.wheels.and.tires.shtml I think Im not reading it right. If some one could tell me if these wheels will work without a spcer or if I will need one and what size, that would be great. According to the guide "To figure out how much of a spacer/adapter you need, it is only simple math. For instance, you pick up a set of wheels that are 17x7 with an offset of +42 for your 86 300ZX. First, expect people (especially butter) to laugh at you. Second, get some adapters IMMEDIATELY. To determine the actual spacer width you need, look at the chart above. Find the 7.0" width row. Find the applicable year column. Look at the number where they meet. Minimum recommended offset is -16mm. To determine thickness, you subtract the recommended offset from the wheel's offset. In this case, you'd subtract -16 from 42. 42 - (-16) = 58. You'd want spacers/adapters that are 58mm thick. Or roughly 2". " If that is right and if I'm reading it right (proly not). The wheel chart shows -6 for the min offsett on both front and rear on the 1987 model and a 7" tire width. So I would do. 40 - (-6) = 46. So do I really need a 46mm spacer for a wheel that is only 10mm diff in offset????? Any help would be great. Also I will be lowering the car by exactly 1" all around. Thanks Chris