gsxtcy
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Posts posted by gsxtcy
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Looking for some used or new s13 megan coilovers. thanks
I have some Megan S13 coilovers for sale
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I have a set as well and MM adaptors
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Affirmative. 296mm or 11.6 inches.
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Ok so just to clear up your project... You are fabbing brackets to make z32 calipers work with drilled(4 lug) big 350 track rotors in the stock s30 configuration as a alternative to the Toyota setup? Cool! Please keep posted as interest is peaked!
the Z32 bracket I'm reproducing does NOT use Z33 rotors!
Just to clarify this for everyone right now I'm test fitting 06-09 Honda Odyssey rotors
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Ok I have read through this thread to be clear of what the goal is but I seem lost. I understand it's to use z32 calipers. One post is talking about using the track rotors(bigger brakes!!!î—î—î—) and another wants it for the 5 lug. I have the Toyota set up and four lug. Will be sticking to four lug too. Will these brackets make a z32 caliper work with the track rotor(drilled for 4 lug) in the traditional manner as the stock/Toyota set ups? Or is this for 5 lug and rotor on outside of hub? Is there a weight savings from the Toyota setup to this? I would be interested in a set of brackets if it all bolts together roughly the same.
Great question and I apologize if my research efforts to develop these have jacked the thread. Once I have everything figured out I will create a separate thread complete with pictures and explanation, but I thought this thread would be best to update people on my progress.
I believe you are referring to the 240sx kit that uses the Z33, 350z track rotors with the Z32 calipers. That is NOT I'm using.
These brackets are similar to the 4X4 kit, except I'm not sure if a spacer will be necessary. With the current rotor I'm testing conceivably you COULD have it drilled for 5 lug applications.
Because of the increased size of the rotor and the larger caliper than the 4x4 kit I highly doubt it will weigh less, but once it's assembled I will weigh it all as well.
Hope this answers your questions, As soon as I get the rotors I will update you.
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I am definitely in. Just 1 set. ETA?
I finally bought all the parts to test fit and should know the will update you by the end of the week hopefully
Count me in!
But what about the rears? I.e. if you wanted to use Z32 rears as well.
...and I haven't heard anyone mention a brake m/c-booster combo to go with them. Any suggestions?
-Jose
Not a clue on rears or Mc/ brake booster setups. And I had no plans for a Z32 rear setup.
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Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a push or pull type on the RB25DET? I've been searching around for this and can't find out what the physical differences are. I'm sure it's an RB25 tranny, not an RB20. thanks
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/252552-push-or-pull-clutch-photo-included/
Edit: Answered my own question. Good info for anyone else who didn't know the difference!
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Okay everybody, I got the brackets and still doing some R&D. How many people would be interested in the Z32 caliper bracket? If I get enough interest I will produce them.
Price would be about 150ish, which seems to be what brackets similar to this normally go for like 4x4, s13 rear calipers etc.
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found this on Yahoo Japan auctions
http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e121153869
Just not sure how to order them now. Does anybody have any experience with this? I used a translator to figure out the cost, just unsure if the seller is willing to ship so I sent him an email
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What's crazy is people have purchased kits of this conversion and nobody has reverse-engineered it to sell and make money.
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Hey everybody,
Just curious if anyone has thought of these two items used in conjunction. I just don't get the warm fuzzy cutting into my shock tower mounts. What do you guys think? Also some caster adjustment (albeit limited) seems helpful. Thanks ahead of time for your wisdom
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GTR front 4 pot and GTR 12" rotors in the works
May be selling kits to adapt these and z32/gts calipers to s30's
240Zdan, any new info on this kit?
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You can position the Autopower bar really close to the roofline if you're careful about it. If you're just using the roll bar alone it is entirely behind the seat, so a bit of padding on the bars immediately around the headrest should suffice. I ran one with no padding whatsoever for years, but luckily never got in an accident to see if that was a good idea or not. If you're going to run a full cage, I think you simply cannot get your head far enough away from the A pillar bars, and for that reason it should be a helmet only proposition to drive the car at that point.
The best thing you can do IMO is lower the seat as much as possible. If you do that you'll gain some clearance between the roof and your head and the door opening and your head. I think you're most likely to hit the opening above the door in an accident. I'm 6' and had a spin at an autox and when the car came to a stop I smacked my head on the door area. Rung my bell pretty good with a helmet on. I just don't think there is a good way around that problem when you're 6' or more in a Z car, they're too short in height and there probably isn't enough room to lay the seat back.
I was expecting you to reply on this. thanks for the info. I was just going to run the street autopower bar and s2000 seats, but you are making weary of the bar completely. Any more thoughts?
Furthermore, would you know which seats aftermarket or OEM, lower the seat down the furthest?
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Hey guys, need your experience! I am planning to buy a roll bar for my project. I am 6'3" and bought the car in a million pieces with no seats, so I'm not sure how to test fit and determine if I will hit my head. Can any taller Z owners make a recommendation for me? I was looking at an Autopower Roll bar. Any guidance on other non-custom roll bars would be appreciated as well. Thank you
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Taking over someone else's build... Wow, really that could be a pain since you don't have a feeling for where each part or set of bolts came from. If he did a really good job of labelling things then, yeah it's probably a good deal, if not you could be looking at a nightmare. It's a good idea to go get a few boxes on 10MM 12MM and 14MM bolts since likely you'll be replacing some anyway. Aside from that I'd say you'd be in pretty good shape if you're mechanically inclined and certain the parts are all there.
The Body work.. Well it can be smoothed with lead filler, but that's pretty old school. Modern fiberglass filler is much easier to work with and can easilly be redone. This compared to the lead filler which tends to warp the panels almost as much as it fills them. I completely agree that as little filler as possible should be used to achieve the smoothest surface. But really, Why do you only want to use metal filler?
Thanks guys for the info, I am not necessarily wanting an all metal repair job, but I thought that was the best way to repair the car as far as quality and longevity is concerned. I plan to pick her up on Saturday and start shopping and figuring out the steps for this build. Any suggestions from experience as far as repairing it and starting off right?
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It can be true, depends on the level of quality you're willing to accept. Myself, I would not repair a steel panel with fiberglass.
I want quality with no compromises and am willing to pay/have the work done. He mentioned steel replacement, followed by fiberglass to ensure it is smooth, but I've heard of people doing metal-only repairs
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Also, why is the dash such a pain?
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If you get a few books and take your time you should be OK if you have some common sense. I would reccomend the Factory Service Manual and How to Restore your Datsun Z Car http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022
Installing the dash is the hardest part in my optinion
Thanks man, perhaps i just needed friendly reassurance. I'm going to buy this car, just nervous about the body work. I need to post in the welding section because I want the repairs to be all metal. I talked to a guy today and he said that some repairs will require fiberglass to smooth out the work. That isn't true right?
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Hey everyone, I have been a longtime 240z lover and FINALLY have the opportunity to purchase one and build it properly.
I found a great one not too far from where I am located for around 2000 bucks. The previous owner bought stripped it down and cataloged all the parts. Also, he media blasted and primered the body of the car. The interior parts to include the dash are in great shape. The body has typical rust which was removed from the blasting in the frame rail, fenders, between the fuel cell and the owner before him must have replaced the seat pans (The most god awful welding job ever!) The sum of the parts (outside of the rust) seem like it will amount to a great build.
My only concern is assembling a car that I myself did not disassemble. Should I be concerned with this? The price and the parts seem good. I would like this to be a deliberate, quality build. Thanks in advance for any advice, insight and info you can provide me, thanks
S30 Brake Upgrade using Z32 Calipers
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Yes, please see earlier posts!