IdahoKidd

I am installing the 5 speed (81 zx) behind the turbo motor(83zx) into my 77z. I have both the original turbo flywheel and and aftermarket lightened one (aluminum). I have searched (aluminum flywheel) and came up with lots of information as to what parts mix and match, but my question is, what are the pros and cons? This is going to be a daily driver, not much into street racing, track racing, etc. Lots of rural crooked Idaho roads with lots of hills. Should I stick the aluminum flywheel into my 240 instead and keep the steel one on the turbo? I also have an limited slip r200 with 4:56's I can slip into either car as well. (Currently in the 240, which came with the flywheel and an l26 carbed motor). Thanks! Leonard

Hey Tony, I believe there is something in the bypass circuit that is amiss. Even with a 200 thermostat and driving 45 minutes in 3rd at high RPMs it will not heat. It has new hoses all around so no collapse. When I get some time, perhaps this afternoon, I will go pull the pump off and replace it. I was trying to get someone with prior experience to help troubleshoot so I wasn't just replacing parts. Again, this car didn't heat up even in the summer with a 200 thermostat. It's got me stumped for now............

It isn't the thermostat, I've replace it with three different ones. A 200 came out of it, a 190 was tried and now another 190 with the bypass hole. A motor with 190 thermostat should make 190 water temp immediately before the thermostat. Cardboard/blocked radiator should make an artifical thermostat of sorts. Temp measured at thermostat within 2 minutes of turning engine off with 190 thermostat having run for 40 minutes with blocked radiator. It didn't cool 30 degrees in two minutes.

It is a whopping 0 outside this morning! I have had this 77 280 for a year now and it has always ran cool. According to the gauge about 160 all summer long. Now that it is cold out, it still is running 160. I changed out thermostats and absolutely no difference. I checked the coolant temp with a candy thermoter and verified 160, with a 200 thermostat.... Temperature at the heater core is 90. I have cardboard across the radiator, complete coverage, no better. Two hours of running and I can literally stick my fingers in the water. Heater lines are cool to touch, not cold, certainly not warm. Return line (lower) radiator line cool to touch Inlet line from waterneck to radiator warmer but not hot. Engine runs perfectly, valve cover warm but not hot. The mechanic at the local Toyota shop (no Nissan shop for 100 miles) looked at and scratched his head and said it isn't possible. I am at a loss here. I can only get the cabin temp up to the 40's and not enough heat to defrost the windows. This is not a heater control valve as near as we can tell, shifting it from hot to cold works, there simply isn't any hot water in the engine. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I noticed a sender(?) on the back of the oil pan on my 83 zxt donor motor as I was bolting up a 5speed. It sort of looks like it was sheared off flush to the mounting nut. (may have knocked it off removing the motor) I don't see a wire on the donor car that looks like it would have went there and don't know for sure that anything ever did. Anyone know what it is and is it importanto the conversion in my 280z? Looks like it could be an oil temp sender perhaps? It is 19 degrees outside but I could go get a picture if needed. Thanks, Leonard

I am needing the stock 83 280zx turbo ecu (5 speed tranny) I don't have the original so I don't even have a part number (which would be of great help). Thanks, Leonard

I am working on essentially the same project here in Idaho (with no state smog laws) but with a 77 280Z, using the 83 zx for a donor. I found some information, probably here, about using the '75 280 intake (N42 I believe) without the egr valve assembly. The members engine looked very clean with all the hoses and such gone. I too am using the 60 mm sx throttle body (all of this is scheduled to be here tomorrow) so am very interested in following your project. I'm still in limbo about using the injector cooler fan. If it doesn't screw up any inputs to the computer, I'm going to try to go without it. Good luck! I'd like to quietly follow along if you don't mind. Leonard

I absoloutely agree with Supra510. Well stated!

Got everything but the axles so far. Not sure I'll get them out but probably wouldn't hurt.

You don't say what the asking price is. Based on what you have said, it should be very cheap. It won't stay that way however.................

I have the engine out of my 83 turbo donor car but now I have to get rid of the carcus. I have the fuel injection harness out but the wire to the knock sensor is in a different loom. Do I need to pull that loom out as well or do I run a dedicated wire for the knock sensor and if so, where does it connect to on to on the other end? (this is all going into my 77 280) Before this goes to the crusher, what else do I need to pull for engine management? Once it is gone, it is gone. thanks, Leonard

I'm not being funny, but it will cost as much as you have to put into it. There is no final end to these cars. It is always, "I am all done now except for............" Find a place you are comfortable with and just drive it. Set small, achievable goals, and accomplish them one at a time. Get it running, get it driving, get it looking okay, get the interior done, get the exterior done, tires, wheels, stereo, performance mods, ect. Not all or any in any order, but realistic goals. Tons of car projects start out with great intentions, get stripped down and then are sold on craigslist or ebay because the owner got overwhelmed and or lost interest. Get it titled before you put a nickle into it. Budget 3 grand to go from a heap to modest streetable (with some pride along with) countless hours of work and go up from there. Good luck!

Man you are hard core! I crushed the last one I had in that bad of shape. TOO much work for what it is worth IPO.

I have no affiliation with this car at all! Found this on ebay. Pretty wild! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c0d97e28eQQitemZ120487142030QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

Thanks guys, I'll leave it off. Still in the learning curve on this fuel injection/tubo stuff and didn't want to have to chase a bad signal of some sort to the computer because the goofy thing wasn't there. It rarely gets 100 here and if it does, I'll drive the Benz, it has a/c : )

I am installing the complete engine assembly from an 83zx turbo into a 77 280z. Looking at pictures of others with similar conversions, they don't seem to have the little hair dryer looking fan that pumps air onto the injectors. Is this necessary to have? It REALLY clutters the engine and I wonder if people leave it off for that very reason and deal with the consequences. (it is amazing, the amount of "clutter" attached to this engine............) Leonard

I am trying to find the correct ecu for my 83 zx turbo with a manual transmission. I found the following information on a Jim Wolf site but don't know nor can find what the letters mean: NISSAN / INFINITI ECU CORE IDENTIFICATION LIST This list is incomplete and may contain errors it is only a guide to help identify cores for return to J.W.T. Manufacturer P/N Year Description Turbo Trans Reg. Options Model-Engine Niss. Part # A18-612 475 84 200SX N A F S12-CA18ET 23710-08F12 A18-611 474 84 200SX N M F S12-CA18ET 23710-08F02 A18-611 630 84 200SX N M F S12-CA18ET 23710-08F03 A18-621 476 84 200SX N M C S12-CA18ET 23710-08F07 A18-621 631 84 200SX N M C S12-CA18ET 23710-08F08 A18-660 632 85 200SX N M F S12-CA18ET 23710-24F00 Specifically, Unter "turbo" the letters lead me to believe T for turbo, N for non (although there is not one listed with a "T". for an 83 ZX) Trans is obvious, Manual or Automatic. Don't have a clue what the "Reg." is and none for zx's have anything posted for options. And yes, I know the stuff shown is for the 200sx, the zx stuff is several pages down. Thanks for the help. If anyone has a stock ecu for my car, I'd be interested in hearing from you. Thanks, Leonard

The number I have is A18 603 580 Thanks for the help! Leonard

Thanks for the reply. I am not yet wanting to swap parts, just wanting to get this motor running so I can drop it in my 77 280. Then at some point I may do some 'custom' stuff. I'll go look for the correct ecu. Leonard

I've been struggling getting a new to me 83 turbo car to start. No spark. Turns out somebody stole the ecu out of the thing. (who checks to see if is still in the car.................). The local boneyard had an ecu out that has "84 turbo" written on it. The guy let me take it home and it did plug right in to the harness. Primed the intake and it started right up (has really bad gas in it so won't run worth a damn). I don't know for a fact the ecu is really out of an 84. Do I need to find a known good 83 ecu? This is a donor car with the motor going into a 77 280. Thanks, Leonard

Hey cgsheen, thanks for the info. This is the basic stuff I needed to know. No sense in reiventing the wheel. The plan is to move the turbo stuff to the non turbo car exactly as it is, then make whatever mods are deemed necessary from there. I had hoped to get started last weekend but like any good plan.............ugh! Thanks again for the help from everyone that chimed in. Leonard

Thanks for the leads. I used to many generic terms and not enough alphabet terms. Now the work begins.......... Leonard

First, yes I have searched. For two weeks, 2-3 hours a day. Tons and tons of information available to most of it for technical upgrades I am not interested in. Here's the deal. I have a 77 280z that I want to put the engine (with 83 non turbo transmission) from an 83 turbo ZX. I have the complete donor car sitting right next to the 77. All I want to accomplish at this time is take the stock motor out of the zx, put it in the z, reach through the steering wheel and rotate the key switch and expect it to start. The questions I can't find answers to include, but may not be limited to are: Do I use the turbo electronics that are next to the drivers side kick panel? Is it all pretty much plug and play once I remove and reinstall it into the 280 or do I need to modify and morph some of it? Tons of info on ignition upgrades. I am not ready to do that yet. I have determined the ignition from the 280 is not going to work and that I need to use the stock ignition. Does this control unit and wiring separate itself from the main harness to the point I can pull each respective system and replace it or do I have to morph some of this (wiring harness) as well? Are there any other traps to look for? The mechanical stuff I can do without issues. FWI-I have a donor 77 280 and a donor 83 non turbo as well to cannibalize if necessary. I am looking for usable practical information or links to such. I know I will get better performance with various upgrades but all things in due time. I am an old guy still living in a carbureted world and have to walk before I can run. Thanks for help and input. Leonard