jtpaintballwdp
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Posts posted by jtpaintballwdp
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As the title says. I have an early style slave (new) with the adjustable rod. I have not replaced the clutch master yet. Bench bled the master, bled the slave.
With the return spring attached I have no pressure in the pedal. When I unhook the spring I have pressure and can shift in and out of gear.
Does this sound like a bad master, an adjustment issue? Still air in the system?
Thanks!!
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I saw those lips after I posted. Many people use a rubber snubber with the Techno Version mount, Maybe it's a little too wide for use with the GM mount. If you got the rubber diff mount with the R200, you could attach it and check its position over the crossmember to verify the diff's in the right spot. But your mustache bar looks correct and it's not going to move much.
Check the fit of the GM mount holes over the diff holes side-to-side before you put things back together. I seem to remember needing to enlarge the GM mount holes to the inside. A round file worked.
Look at Post #5 here if you want to compare TV dimensions to the original RT design. Notice the mounting area is different on the later cars also, at least one less lip, and maybe wider.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58895-what-is-the-deal-with-solid-diff-mounts/
Thanks for your help NewZed. The factory rubber mount does indeed line up. I'm thinking the early cars are just a bit different. Not a big deal I can grind/hammer and get those areas flat easy enough.
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So it looks like if I flatten the high areas(where the sheet metal makes a 90 and goes toward the diff) I can slide the RT mount back and use the two mount holes that are more forward. Looks like that will get it to line up.
Pics are coming up on my phone I'll upload when I'm at my desk.
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There are three. I used the back two which seems to be the only way possible to mount them up. I will go double check.
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Installing my Techno Version RT style mount with the poly bushing in my 1970 with R-200 diff. The mount is bolted to the car, but the R200 looks like it is about an inch or so too far forward. What have I done wrong? I have the later model R-200 moustache bar, as well as the curved lower transverse link. From what I can tell the moustache bar and everything is in the correct position.
Any ideas?
Sorry for the terrible cell pics.
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M 10x125 by 25 or 30
Here is the link to the correct bolts http://www.courtesyparts.com/bolt-p-234543.html
Awesome, you are a life saver.
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Sorry....can't help you there....BUT, while you have things apart, have you considered using an RT-style diff mount vs the factory strap? 'Tis much more secure, and can be had for just a few shekels. If you'd like more info, just search for "RT mount" in the Drivetrain sub-forum. (My apologies in advance if this is old news to you.)
I did indeed get the RT mount with poly bushing, I had to take a break from working on the car(moved), and am now just getting back to working on it. It mounts using the same bolts where the strap used to mount correct?
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I managed to misplace mine when I tore the rear end of my '70 apart. Anyone know what size/pitch these are off hand? (the 4 bolts that attach the diff strap to the car)
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As the title says, needed for my r-200 swap on to a 70 that has the straight bar. Have the mustache bar already.
Thanks!
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Bumping this, as I am looking again, for clarification, this is what I'm looking for.
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Should be one of those 4 bolt flanges. I can go meausre my bolt spacing if you need it.
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Aren't Z31 non turbo 4 lug?
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Bumping this as I am looking again
thanks!
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I need the output stub axles, the R200 is out of a 77-78 280z if that matters, flanges would be good too.
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Pulled the l24 this weekend, Hooray progress! Have a little bit of rust to take care of under the battery tray, other than that the bay is going to get a deep clean and I'm going to leave it at that.
Once its cleaned the L28ET will be going in and wiring will commence going MS3x running full sequential spark/fuel using LSx coils that i already have laying around.
Though I would also finish up the brakes this weekend but alas, it wasn't meant to be. The passenger side caliper is leaking around the flare fitting. It looks like when it was re-manufactured, they used the wrong flare and the line is bottoming before it creates a seal. time for an exchange.
Pics can be found here:
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Looking for an 82-83 Distributor to use with my MS3/MS3x Also the driveshaft for the dizzy as well if you have it.
Thanks!
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Im going to second what NewZed said. You are burning a ton of fuel because the ECU has no idea what to do with the injectors that are so much bigger than stock, could be wrong though
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Ordered a set of Toyota 4x4 calipers to replace the seized stock calipers. Also ordered some Axxis ULTs to go with them. Hoping to have the brakes done next weekend... FINALLY.
Once the car is back on the road, I also plan on a rear disc conversion and a 1" Wilwood master, but this is going to be a while down the road.
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Just been rattling off ideas in my head.
So I have a L28ET to swap in to my car, engine is of unknown mileage, and has been sitting as long if not longer than the Z (10+ years). It was known running when we scraped the car it came out of, but we all know how that goes.
Either of these wont happen for a while but these are my 2 options as I see it.
1) Small top end over haul of the L28et, replace seals and all that good stuff and hope for the best.
2) Run the L24 for a few years, while I accumulate parts for a complete overhaul of the L28et. This would probably involve a slight refresh of the E31 head and possibly a cam to make it a bit more fun to drive, along with a header (Nissan Motorsport or MSA) and exhaust.
I figure with that, I could possibly recover a slight amount of money from the E31 head when it comes time for the swap, of if i decided to, I'm sure I we have an extra L28 block lying around that i could throw some flat-tops in and stay NA.
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Another update:
Of course nothing goes as planned.
I get out to MD with what I thought was all of the parts I needed, only to find that i forgot the seals for the front hub... alright Ill just do the rears and save the fronts for next time... Flare wrench is also back in NoVA. Was able to replace the pass. side rear wheel cyl. with a standard wrench, but didn't want to risk rounding off the flare nuts to the rubber hose, nor did it feel like the other side wanted to budge either.
So all in all I really got nothing done... I think once we get the brake system back together I'm going to take T-Bones advice and just haul it back to NoVA so i can work on it at my house. We actually have the tow dolly and a vehicle to tow with.
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T-bone where in NoVA are you located? I'm out in Aldie, few miles west of South Riding.
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Uhaul truck and trailer, a little sweat, and get that sucker trailered back to your house. Nothing like staring at the z to get you even more motivated. plus the truck helps with all the spares you can haul!
This is a good point. I would if I was in the position where I could spend a bunch of money on it right now, but as it is, I'm enjoying taking my time =D
Going down this weekend to get some work done
Got my rotors and drums turned
New wheel cylinders/brake hoses should be here today
Pads and shoes that are on it have plenty of meat left, and aren't contaminated, so I will reuse those until my rear disc conversion, and Toyota 4x4 front conversion.
So brake overhaul this weekend. Hoping to get it moving/stopping under its own power this weekend.
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Another quick update, still nothing big. Narrowed down the fueling issues to blocked lines or the tank feed. Unfortunately the car being 2.5 hrs away really cuts down on time I can work on it.
Also put together a list of everything that needs to be done before I can even think about driving it.
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Nice, let me know if you asked him!
Looks like he wants to hang on to it =/ sorry.
70 240z looses clutch pressure when return spring is attached
in Drivetrain
Posted
I'll check it out, thanks!