cdk4219
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Posts posted by cdk4219
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Not trying to be rude, but I think you need to take a couple grand off the price.
Its gonna be hard to sell a smog required Z with a Ford engine swap that isnt already BAR approved for the same amount you can get a smog exempt nice driving Chevy powered Z. Nice car though and it looks like you did a pretty good job putting it together. Good luck with your sale
$4500 seems to be a great price,
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Looking for a drivers side inner fender liner, actually the front and rear parts. Let me know what you have.
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WHo carries the rubber brake/fuel line holders that bolt onto the undersude ofthe body, and firewall? I am having a hard time finding them.
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I have always worked with a rising rate FPR, as it will extend the HP capabilities of the injectors. This does'nt mean that it can't be tuned out via HP tuners, although with a turbo, I suspect it to be difficult. I don't think that the stock ECM has the ability to adapt to positive atmospheric pressures (boost).
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i picked up a complete 30k mile lq9(6.0) with pcm harness and auto trans for 1500[/QUOPerfect, buy a set of MLS GM head gaskets, ARP head studs, 42# injectors, Ls1 intake, 2002 up Z06 cam,and a 74 to 76 mm turbo, with at least a 44mm gate. You will also need a rising rate FPR, as well as many other items. Best to get it tuned by a competent shop, unless you are willing to put some time and effort into the tune.
This combo will work well with a 3.40 and lesser gear ratio with this light car. You probably be easier on the rear with the auto trans and an electronic boost controller that allows a variable rate.. Oh yea, if you want to go one step further get some rod bolts.
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I believe the input shaft is not the right length for the LS1 T56. Thh LT1 t56 will go in however. Sell the LS1 unit, and buy an LT1 (you can probably make some $ on the deal)
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Depending on what you have sanded it with, will lead you to the right compound. A Harbor Freight buffer will be fine, but i might suggest that you get a 3M Perfect It III compound foam pad, and Perfect It III rubbing and Polishing compound. THe Foam pads are much easier to use, and will be harder to burn through (worth the $ IMO)
Sanding with less than 1200 grit will be more difficult to polish than a 2000 grit final sand. More work in the sanding department, but less polishing, and a better result. Do a little at a time, and with the Perfect it, you dont need much compound to do the job. make sure to be careful around the edges, and lift the trunk and hatch, and open the doors while buffing the edges. Doing this while the pad is spinning away from the edge so that it doesnt catch it, will lessen the chance of burn through.
If you already know this sorry for the info, but learning the hard way isnt fun. Good luck
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It is highly likely that the stock block will crack long before the internals will go, although I am not familiar with the older blocks (nor VW rods in them!) I have a BMW e30 with a stock 91 302HO with a T66 and GT40Y heads with MLS gaskets that I run 12 lbs on a regular basis. It puts out 560wheel and it has been over revved quite a few times, but it is still together.
I have been told by a few poeple who seem to know their Ford stuff that even the block is the weak point with hyper pistons and a good tune. I have less than 3000 in the turbo including the tune.
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No. I wouldn't shave a dual purpose tire. It would just kill your mileage. If you are looking for that last tenth of a second then shaving would be a good idea, or just run them until the tread get down there. They will heat cycle the first time on the track.
Are they good for straight line performance, or do they have to be heated up before they grip?
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It is quite a bit of work. I have been working on swapping a MarkVIII 8.8 and fabricated all of the suspension> i went with an upper and lower control arm, and had axles machined for the correct length. I went with the knuckles from the Mark, Cobra hubs (because the mark has goofy bolt patterns) and cobra brakes. It isnt complete, but it is a lot of work, and about $2000 or so in cost.
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No mucking up whatsoever. I did a 90 BMW 318is 302 (5.0 T60 turbo FI) swap a couple of years ago, and had to get a different (smaller) booster and different size MC from a Geo Metro. It works, but the pedal pressure is much greater than I like. Just dont want to make the same mistake on the Z.
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Do you think that it will make a difference that I have changed the rear to disc brakes as well? I plan on installing an adjustable proportioning valve, and possibly hydraulic parking brake in the system.
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I am in the process of installing brakes from an '03 Cobra (front and rear) on the 260z, and wondered what the best solution for the master cylinder and brake booster were. I searched and the 280zx 15/16" with booster have come up for a bolt in. Are there some other options that I am overlooking so that i can have a good pedal feel. Thanks Chris.
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How much are the ones from Reaction?
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Where can I find a stock (or stock looking) rear spoiler and some selections of front air dams in urethane?
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This guy (weiss motors) is a monkey dick for sure. I have mailed him a few times asking him for his phone # and he replies that he is too busy to give it out, although you can wire him some money. I'm sure that there are a few people out there that would like to give him a fresh ass whoopin.
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It fits tight in the 93 FD Mazda Rx7 that I put it in. I am in the hunt for a good z car top do the LS1 T56 single turbo swap on this winter. Procharger does 485RWHP @9PSI on a stock engine, but the torque is down because the thing takes a lot of power to turn. I am going to shoot for the 650 to 675 to the wheels with a z car, and a turbo. The Z has lots of room compared to an FD RX7, but every car has its challenge.I've seen sets of lingenfelter heads for about $1500 and was going to do that. How does the procharger fit? Any pics? I want to use some type of forced induction(TT? SC?) down the road when I get another car for a DD. -
Save yourself some money and get an older small block. Carbs are for drag racers (WOT) or people who want the easy way out. The strong piont of the LS1 is the OBDII control, timing and fuel. Once you take that away on a street driven car you take yourself back 25 years in time. Send the stock harness to LT1350.com and Dana will do the harness work for $300, including VATS delete, installing relays, and other things. He has done 3 for me and all have started the first time. This $300 you spend will save you that much in fuel in the first year. the harness is extremely easy to hook up, and includes instructions.But if you're starting from an LS1 block, it really simplifies things. Wiring isn't my strong point, and this would REALLY simply things. -
AN LS1 will put out between 350 to 370 at the crank in stock form. Cam and valve springs with headers will give you 30 to 50 extra HP, giving you the push you need. Heads are reported to give an extra 50 to 75HP as well, but I cant attest to that. I did a procharger and got a little over 500 at the crank with 5 PSI on the stock engine.
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TO get 600 at the crank with an LS1 it will be expensive, to do it NA. ANything less than a big block will be expensive to get 500 to 600 NA. 500 is a more reasonable figure with heads cam injectors headers throttle body and such. You will probably have to replace the clutch at that point as well. Figure 3 to 5 thousand to get you 500.
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I could start out with the old stand by phrase here at Hybrid "use the search button' but I wont. As far as I am concerned, buying anything that is used and that you cant hear run is a gamble, Ebay or not. Especially an engine that is usually 2000 miles away and came out of a wrecked car, or worse a car that wasnt wrecked, just abused and blown up. With that being said I have purchased 2 complete drivetrains out of F bodies from out of state and both have been good. Many of the LS1 deals on Ebay are legit, but I would steer clear of the complete longblocks for the most part, unless they are cheap. it seems that most of these are warranty engines that may need some machine work and parts. It is always a gamble, but unless you can get one locally (which is still a gamble) you may go ahead and bid.
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http://www.northernautoparts.com for a budge minded chevy guy. $211 will get you a MAster kit with everything you need to freshen it up. Or you can go for the re ring kit, or $96 for the re ring kit wit rings bearings and gaskets. the master kit includes cam, timing set pistons oil pump, everything, and all are quality parts.
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Typically the off idle stumble doesnt follow the patterm of an injector problem. I am not familiar with the LT1, but upping the size of the injector on a stock or near stock engine probably wont get you much, but lighter in your pocket. Re sizing injector tables is needed for the ecm to find the proper pulse width. Injectors can be checked and cleaned by local shops that specialize in this, and the cost isnt great. Have you read the real time data from your diagnostic tool? many times this will point you in the right direction. Injectors wont usually wear out all ath the same time, and many times it is the coil that wears out rendering the unit totally useless. that's not to say that it cant happen, but it is highly unlikely that all of the injectors need to be replaced. With that being said a bad injector would show up on one or more cylinders when it ran them lean, or rich which in turn would usually lead to a hard start problem when the injector leaked into the cylinder. I would suspect the problem related with a possible vacuum leak, or TPS, but not the injectors, but I have been wrong before.
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What are the diferences between the models, and can you put an LS1 in the 78? Where do these cars commonly rust out?
WTB 280Z A pillar plastic and sunvisors in black
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Looking for some a pillar trim (at least the passenger side, and drivers side sunvisor for a 280Z PM me if you have any