cdk4219

Looking for some a pillar trim (at least the passenger side, and drivers side sunvisor for a 280Z PM me if you have any

$4500 seems to be a great price,

Looking for a drivers side inner fender liner, actually the front and rear parts. Let me know what you have.

WHo carries the rubber brake/fuel line holders that bolt onto the undersude ofthe body, and firewall? I am having a hard time finding them.

I have always worked with a rising rate FPR, as it will extend the HP capabilities of the injectors. This does'nt mean that it can't be tuned out via HP tuners, although with a turbo, I suspect it to be difficult. I don't think that the stock ECM has the ability to adapt to positive atmospheric pressures (boost).

I believe the input shaft is not the right length for the LS1 T56. Thh LT1 t56 will go in however. Sell the LS1 unit, and buy an LT1 (you can probably make some $ on the deal)

Depending on what you have sanded it with, will lead you to the right compound. A Harbor Freight buffer will be fine, but i might suggest that you get a 3M Perfect It III compound foam pad, and Perfect It III rubbing and Polishing compound. THe Foam pads are much easier to use, and will be harder to burn through (worth the $ IMO) Sanding with less than 1200 grit will be more difficult to polish than a 2000 grit final sand. More work in the sanding department, but less polishing, and a better result. Do a little at a time, and with the Perfect it, you dont need much compound to do the job. make sure to be careful around the edges, and lift the trunk and hatch, and open the doors while buffing the edges. Doing this while the pad is spinning away from the edge so that it doesnt catch it, will lessen the chance of burn through. If you already know this sorry for the info, but learning the hard way isnt fun. Good luck

It is highly likely that the stock block will crack long before the internals will go, although I am not familiar with the older blocks (nor VW rods in them!) I have a BMW e30 with a stock 91 302HO with a T66 and GT40Y heads with MLS gaskets that I run 12 lbs on a regular basis. It puts out 560wheel and it has been over revved quite a few times, but it is still together. I have been told by a few poeple who seem to know their Ford stuff that even the block is the weak point with hyper pistons and a good tune. I have less than 3000 in the turbo including the tune.

Are they good for straight line performance, or do they have to be heated up before they grip?

It is quite a bit of work. I have been working on swapping a MarkVIII 8.8 and fabricated all of the suspension> i went with an upper and lower control arm, and had axles machined for the correct length. I went with the knuckles from the Mark, Cobra hubs (because the mark has goofy bolt patterns) and cobra brakes. It isnt complete, but it is a lot of work, and about $2000 or so in cost.

No mucking up whatsoever. I did a 90 BMW 318is 302 (5.0 T60 turbo FI) swap a couple of years ago, and had to get a different (smaller) booster and different size MC from a Geo Metro. It works, but the pedal pressure is much greater than I like. Just dont want to make the same mistake on the Z.

Do you think that it will make a difference that I have changed the rear to disc brakes as well? I plan on installing an adjustable proportioning valve, and possibly hydraulic parking brake in the system.

I am in the process of installing brakes from an '03 Cobra (front and rear) on the 260z, and wondered what the best solution for the master cylinder and brake booster were. I searched and the 280zx 15/16" with booster have come up for a bolt in. Are there some other options that I am overlooking so that i can have a good pedal feel. Thanks Chris.

How much are the ones from Reaction?