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JFryer

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Everything posted by JFryer

  1. Im in the process of installing coilovers with 200 inlbs springs front and 225's rear. ? is how much bump travel VS rebound travel should I shoot for. How much for the street VS autocross and track days. Also for those out there with GC camber plates would like to know if people mounted them under or over the strut tower. Thanks
  2. Hi would anybody know what the factory spring rates are for both the 280Z and the 2+2 are. I could also use number of coils and free length. Thanks
  3. John Fenders and bucket should be the same for a 2 seater or a 2+2. Should unbolt very easy. just watch for hidden bolt near intersection of door/fender/A piller. and then 2 bolts ant the intersection of the inner fender panel/outer fender/ headlight bucket. Good luck Jeremy
  4. Has anybody tried brackets from a 82/83 200SX. It uses the same rotors as the 280zx and looks like it has the right offset just might have to redrill some of the mounting holes. Jeremy
  5. The rule of thumb for max oil psi is 10 psi per 1k rpm. So if you twist the motor 10K sound like your still safe! No really most people find a max of 70-80 about right for a high performance Z. If you oil pump came stock with both an inner and outer spring try replacing just the outer with the comp spring and see what you get. ------------------ Jeremy Fryer Early 74 260Z Worked hard and put up wet
  6. Well This weekend I am having a rollbar custom built by a local race car chassie fabricator. But he does not have a copy of the SCCA GCR. This is what I am thinking of for the bar. Main hoop would tie in to the intersection of the floor and inner rocker panel's just behind where the seat belt retractor bolts to. Rear braces would run from the top of the strut tower to the main hoop. Diagonal brace would run from main hoop low on passenger side to top of drivers side. Would also like to encorporate a harness bar but don't know if I should have is run between the rear braces or have a U shaped one that runs from one side of the main hoop to the other. All welded mounting plates will be 1/8 inch mild steel. Rollbar tubing will be 1.75 X .120. So does anyone know if this will be ok under SCCA rules. I am thinking about doing some time trial's this summer. Thanks Jeremy P.S. yes I know I need to get a copy of the GCR but I wasn't going to have the bar installed so early, But a spot opened up in this guy's schedual and I would like to get my car done.
  7. Well started installing some Top End street camber plate's on my 260Z and made a very rude discovery. My car is riding on the bump stops in the front. It turns out that the springs set that I got from Vic Brit about 3 years ago aren't stiff enough. Now here is the delema. As the car is set up right now I am running Koni shocks front and rear. With the vic brit (ground effect) springs on the front. In the rear I have Nissan Euro springs cut 3/4 coil. Anti roll bars 20mm front and rear. Here is the problem. As the car is now when I go out on the track. The car handles very nicely with just some light understeer. If I screw up in a turn and backoff the rear end comes out very gently and is easy to catch. Now the ? should I leave the car as is until the day comes when I can shorten the front struts and go real camber plates and coil-over's, or should I replace the front springs with the rear springs from Vic brit that I never used because they were to short for the rear (one more coil then fron springs). Or if anybody has any ideas would love to here them. Also what about rollbars. right now with front end on the stops there is very little body roll but I guess that would change with new springs. Are the 20mm bars enough. Thanks Jeremy Fryer Early 74 260Z
  8. MYRON Not to confuse the issue but normally Vac advance is at it's least under WOT/ low manifold vac conditions and high(advanced) under low throttle high vac conditions. That is why you disconnect and plug the vac line when setting the advance. It sounds like what is happening is that there is not enough initial advance. so what is happening is that as you stepped on the gas hard the vac advance unit retards' the advance causing the engine to bog until ether the mech advance kick's in or manifold vac increases again. Good thing Z's are very light for most V-8's if it were a normal car 3500-4000lbs the stumble would be very pronounced.
  9. The Weber charts are all for individual runner systems. Iff you are running the cannon manifold you can go much smaller. I would bet that your cannon manifold is like mine and the balance tube is cast open with no plugs on the ends. Also if your system probably has 28mm venturies which are alittle small for a hot 2.8 I currently run 32's but not a big deal, only about a 30-40 CFM differance in air flow if I remember. About 160CFM per barrel for 28's vs 180CFM per barrel for 32's. This is not exact as the numbers required interpolating off of a chart. Last but not least when I was running 28's in my car I tried 110 mains but could still not get the car to lean out. I then called the guys over at Top end. They recommended that I go with the bigger ventures. according to them, when you run a large motor on small ventures the airflow is to high which causes even higher fuel flow. this would normally be compansated for by a larger air correction jet. But because of the small ventures this large fuel flow happens below the level at which the air correction jets start making a real differance. and instead would have to be compansated for by emulsion tube's which unless you have tons of money and a engine dyno are best left to the pro's. Also new ventures are about $10-12$ each ------------------ Jeremy Fryer Early 74 260Z Worked hard and put up wet
  10. What type of manifold are you running.Is it an individual runner type (Nissan comp) or is there a balance tube running between the runners (Cannon). Also what size are the ventures (chokes). For good prices on jets try www.webercarbuetors.com
  11. Try Arizona Zcar at www.arizonazcar.com They have Koni D adjustables for $59.00 each. The ones that I have on my 260Z work great with my cut down Nissan Euro springs. Also if need be Koni's are rebuildable
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