Jump to content
HybridZ

JFryer

Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JFryer

  1. Yes those pads do fit. But some work is involved. First you must trim off the pad wear indicators. Then the guide pin holes must be welded up and redrilled lower in the pad. Overall about 1 hour's worth of work per set.
  2. I like my wood deck, not as long lasting as steel but very easy to replace. As for full deck or runners, I just have to remove 2 bolts and I can then remove my center boards to give myself some room to work if I have to. Note: my trailer is used to haul everything from furniture to yard equipment to manure, If all the trailer hauled were my car I would spend the money for a nice aluminium one.
  3. This subject has come up several times in the past I recommend that you use the search function. I just tried it using "R200 finned cover" and had 90 hits. Also read sticky #4 much good info there.
  4. Yes you will need the half-shafts and mustach bar from a 280Z for this conversion. 260 shafts are a flange and yolk type vs flange on both ends for the 280. Also read John C's web site after my conversion so I went out to the garage removed my springs and measured the half-shaft and found that I still had 1/4 inch of travel left in the half shaft at the point of max shaft compression. NOTE this was a static measurement on my early 260 with coilovers and poly bushings.
  5. What year Tach? 74-78 Tach is vey easy to mod to work with the MSD. Check out Zhome.com for instructions.
  6. I did the same swap in the early 90's. You will need to replace the side gear's in the 200sx's diff with the one's out of you 260 or get new ones from Nissan. The 200sx uses CV joint half shafts with circlips VS the 260 with bolt on half shafts. Drive shaft bolts right up. The swap is not hard but the Ring gear has to come off the carrier to change out the side gears.
  7. Taking a trip up the I-85 corridor through Atlanta GA up to Richmond VA, and would like some recommendation's for shops that have fixed back racing seats such a Sparcos, Cobra's, Kirkey Road race, or Ultra Shield. I really would like to sit in the seat before I buy so no interest mail order. Thanks
  8. Well Its friday, working on the Z, painting my new 15x8 Centerline wheels (Black centers polished lips) Looking at my brakes thinking upgrade (Have vented Maxima with toyota Calipers Hawk HP+ pads) Would like to go to some day go to a outlaw 2800 caliper. When I decided to get out the old Brake handbook by Fred Puhn and work some numbers. What I did was workout the Kinetic energy of two Z's of different weights at the same speed. Then I figured out the temperature rise in the brake system for both cars stopping from that speed or slowing down to 40 MPH. !!WARNING!! There are lots of assumtions in these calculations. Some of them are Total S30 Brake weight of 30 lbs (Rotors/Drums) Perfect brake bias Equal temp rise among all componants (I.E. Rotors and drums) No cooling during the stop No Aero drag No rolling resistance. And others If you want more info read the book. Well Ok here are the Numbers. 2800 lb Z MPH Kinetic Energy @40 149832.776 ft-lbs @60 337123.746 ft-lbs @80 599331.104 ft-lbs @100 936454.859 ft-lbs @120 1348494.983 ft-lbs 2250 lb Z MPH Kinetic Energy @40 120401.337 ft-lbs @60 270903.01 ft-lbs @80 481605.351 ft-lbs @100 752508.361 ft-lbs @120 1083612.04 ft-lbs Temperature Rise (One Stop) 2800 lb Z 60 - 0 144F 80 - 0 257F 100 - 0 401F 120 - 0 578F 60 - 40 80F 64F 80 - 40 193F 100 - 40 377F 120 - 40 514F 2250 lb Z 60 - 0 116F 80 - 0 206F 100 - 0 322F 120 - 0 464F 60 - 40 64F 80 - 40 155F 100 - 40 271F 120 - 40 413F I hope this helps sombody. If nothing else it was a good way to spend a rainy afternoon. Also sorry about the format I tried to do columns but it didn't format properly when submitted
  9. No real major problems. The allen head bolts that dave supplys with the pan are all the same length so you will need to shorten a few of them for the front and rear of the block. I also had to enlarge the hole for the dip stick. Over all very nice pan. Also I have been dealing with Dave @ Arizona Z-car for years. Can be tough to talk to if you ask dumb ? but If you think before you ask he is a wealth of knowledge. Also you must use allen head bolt's . Nissans how to modify L4/L6 talks about the fact that aluminum pans are so stiff that they prevent the block from shifting and can snap regular bolts.
  10. Just thought I should post some pict's of my American Racing Type 206's With center cap. [/img]
  11. I have a set that I got from top end about 2 years ago. These are the same ones that MSA lists on pg 63 of there catalog. The camber kit works Ok but no where near the quality of a real camber plate. I got my set to use in the front. But after Using for about 6 months I bite the bullet a got real Ground control camber plates. Night and day diff in quality. I now use the Top End kit in the rear. The real problem with that camber kit is that it is very easy to over torque the shock center nut which collapses the center polyurathane bushing and the plastic surounding the thrust bearing. Or overtorque the mounting nuts crushing poly isolator. Over all if you are looking for a set it and forget it 1 to 1.5 camber change the Top End kit is ok. But if you track your car or will be making frequent changes save you money for the real thing.
  12. Dont forget http://www.zhome.com. Most of the tech is older stuff but still not a bad basic resource.
  13. Yes the Diff came out of a 87 300ZX turbo. I wanted to keep the finned cover for cooling and extra oil capacity so I had to mod the cross brace. I have some more picts from about half way through the mod in my HybridZ album.
  14. Fits Great End links are straight up and down. Summit racing sells both the front and rear as a kit for a great price. But if you car is not at stock ride height the supplyed end links are about 3 inchs to long.
  15. Some Picts of my Modified rear crossmember to fit a 300zx LSD with cooling fins and a rear mounted Anti roll bar.
  16. johnc wrote: Is your calculation of the deflection number: 1. The total deflection of both arms measured at the link mount holes 2. The total deflection of both arms measured at some other standard point on the arms. 3. The amount of twist in the bar itself? # 1 is correct. This is the formula I used if any one is interested. 315294.1 X R4 X O A X L R4= effective radius of the bar to the 4th power 0 = angle of deflection in degrees A = effective arm length L = effective bar length
  17. In my search for info on antiroll bars I broke out the text books (Trig) and did some calculations using formulas from Don Alexander's book PERFORMANCE HANDLING. These rates are in pounds per inch of deflection, and are based on stock antiroll bar shapes both front and rear. (if sombody would post the dimensions for the rear type that mounts to the uprights I will calculate it and post.) Front 16mm 75lb per inch 18mm 120lb per inch 20mm 183lb per inch 21mm 223lb per inch 22mm 268lb per inch 23mm 321lb per inch 1" 447lb per inch 1 1/8 717lb per inch REAR 20mm 86lb per inch 21mm 105lb per inch 7/8" 139lb per inch 1" 211lb per inch Hope somebody else finds this usefull
  18. Thanks I guess the real ? is how long is the lever arm on the ST sway bar. I went out and measured the stock one at 31cm. So if somebody could post the length of the ST arm I will work the math.
  19. Just drill out all the old spot weld's all the way round . Plus three or four spot welds up the rear fender at the door then acouple of taps with the rubber mallet and the rocker panel drops right off. Make sure you remove the door first and only do one side at a time. If you have all the reqd equip plan on one day per side.
  20. Anybody know the how stiff the suspension techniques 3/4" rear bar is compaired to the stock early 260Z 20mm Bar. The ST bar that I am talking about is the one that mounts behind the uprights. Which makes a direct comparision hard due the differences in arm length.
  21. Has anybody used a Griffen scirroco drag racing radiator. The size looks perfect at 22' X 13' and would be able to sit right on top of my mazda oil cooler.
  22. looks like the same thing Top End has listed as there "Street Camber plate". I got a set from them about 2 years ago. I got them for my front but found out that you could only reduce camber with them. And it is not very easy to adjust. I Have since moved mine to the rear and installed GC camber plates in the front. Jeremy Fryer
  23. If you had to use lots of heat to try to get that pin out. You should look at replacing you wheel bearings. I removed my pins last year to replace the bushings and had to use the melted wax trick on one pin. Then less then 2500 miles later I had to pull that stub axle to replace the bearings. I can't say for sure if the heat caused the bearings to start to fail or not. But it looks like the most likly cause.
  24. Well glad to know I was on the right track with mounting them under the strut tower. The reason that I was unsure was due to the pict's of Don Bunt's E prod car that was featured in both Zcar & Sport Z mag. On the Ground control plates I must say very nice parts but really awfull instructions. I think the install would have been easier if they just sent you a befor and after photo. Now If I can just get some Idea of how much bump versus rebound travel I should have, I might be able to lick the understear demon
×
×
  • Create New...