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Posts posted by v8wannabe2
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My opinion may be a little slanted
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The bumper began life as a 76. I moved the strut mounts back a 2", built a new inner structure for the bumper with the mounts inset about 2", dropped the air dam down a couple inches, narrowed the bumper, removed the rubber pieces, filled the rubber mount holes and smoothed the lic plate mount area. A lot of work for a mod the average Joe won't notce.
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A little more progress, rear suspension and the beginning of wheels
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My understanding is that to do it right the product is a dye and not paint. Dye will soak in, where paint is a layer on top (more likely to scratch). That's why the clean up is important, so the dye can penetrate evenly. Good luck
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proper cleaning before applying the paint is key, make sure that all the armoral, silicone, grease is off. The dye will penetrate differently and leave blotches if not clean.
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It's 1:6 scale, a little more than 2' long, I used 1/4" & 3/16" mostly. Check my photo album for a few more pics.
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Thought you might enjoy a pic of the latest additions to my wize Z model. The headers are built (check my album to see pics of the engine), rear suspension is under way. I plan to add a trans, drive shaft, diff and who know's what else.
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I sold a truck load of parts to Charlie at Zedd Findings when I moved from Ontario. Great Guy!! honest and helpful. He's got my vote.
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I scraped off what I could with a chisel them used 3-4 wire wheels on my right angle grinder. As the wheels gummed up I threw them in a can of gas and let them soak. Start on an outside edge and work towards the centre so what your taking off is not thrown back onto the clean area. Yes it is messy!!
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In the technical section there is a Z engine calculator program. It may help sort this out for you.
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What do you have available for tools or how much do you want to spend? That will dictate which route to go. Pics would be helpful to us also, sounds like we're talkin' some large holes.
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The best and safest way is coilovers. Performance springs alone will give you 1" - 1 1/2" inches. Cheapest (and least reccomended)...cut'em.
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I saw a blast cabinet made from a 45 gallon drum, laid sideways and cut/hinged in the middle. Add a window, legs...that should get some creative juices flowing.
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Here's my story, I scored a new set of 240z doors for my 280 (not knowing that the male/female door catches were reversed). I proceeded to remove all the rust, prime and coat the inside with truck bedliner, install sound deadener, shaved the door handles and installed the poppers to open them. When I installed them on the car I suspect my neighbors 3 doors down could hear the profanities. Not wanting to start from scratch on the old doors, I cut and migged the old panels to the new doors. I was able to get it to work, the gap was bigger than I would have liked. It turned into a lot of work.
My advise would be to get the right doors and save the hassle I went through. Good luck
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Buy a bunch of large/small zip lock bags, masking tape, sharpie markers and use it to keep everything you take off organized. Take lotsa pictures and make notes as you go. Make a plan on how you are going to store the tagged pieces, I used the $10 stacking storage bins and labeled then for the general area of the car the parts came from (eg. interior, engine bay, etc) You'll appreciate it when you go to put it back together. A rule of thumb is that it takes 3X as much space to store a car in pieces.
Good luck, stay organized and the project will be more fun than frustration.
Foose'd my front bumper
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Ya like that, check this out, I shaved the doorhandles and driprail and filled the b-pillar vent. When I put the new rear quarters on I Ispaced them out 1 1/4" on each side to widen the rear by 2 1/2 inches....look at the ridge behind the door. Oh yeah powdercoated the chrome around the window too. Again a whole bundle of mods a non-Z nut wouldn't notice.