Big Jon

Heres the thing about "knowing what im doing". It might sound weird, but im not bad at body work. I took a bunch of shop classes back in high school, and since being out of high school ive helped with bodywork on a lot of my friends cars and even made spray booths. What im not good at is welding, which is why i brought up the topic. I literally just started to learn, and i my dad and i have an arc welder, which i guess is a little more difficult to learn on verses a wire feed. But after reading all of the posts, im pretty sure im going to just get a donor roof and either see if my uncle will weld it in, or just take the roof and have a shop do it. But i dont want the sunroof. After much thinking, i definitely dont want a sunroof in my car. Thanks again for the pics posted though, it gives me a nice example of what needs to be done. And ill do searches from now on, sorry bout that! Too bad these cars didnt come with T-tops. I kinda like them actually...

No i didnt. Sorry, i forgot about it. While we're still on the subject, what do you think about the other approach i mentioned? Im not going to be racing this car, so i guess i dont need to worry about approval of a solid metal roof. Does anyone have a good reference for a fiberglass sunroof cover?

could it be done with a stick welder, or would that be too heavy duty for thin sheet metal? once again, im just learning how to weld, so even though some might think its a walk in the park, its going to take me a while to get to that point in confidence and know-how

So sometime in its early life, my 260z had an aftermarket sunroof put in. And sometime between then and now, the sunroof went missing, leaving a GIANT hole in my roof. I am trying to decide whether it is more feasible to have a custom cover made for it, or to have it welded back up. I am not the best fabricator yet, so I would more than likely have to pay someone to weld in new metal. Or i could find someone to make a new cover, either glass/lexan, or fiberglass. Does anyone know of kits that might have been sold back in the day that look like what im dealing with? Or was this a one off?

Well that makes a lot of sense. My car had factory AC. I took it out because A) I dont want it and I dont need it. I still have a bunch of the wires i need to trace down and take out, but until then theyre staying where they are. Thanks again! Free time for you saved time for me...

Ok guys, I have no idea what this thing is. I cant find any pictures, nor descriptions of it in my Haynes manual. I think it has something to do with the 260z SU's because of all the vacuum lines attached to it. I traced each one and they all led across the back of the engine bay and then stopped where the previous owner had cut them off from wherever they went. Also, there is a red button on it that says "Push". There were a few electrical connectors too. My best guess was that it had something to do with emissions, seeing as it is a 260z, but i havent found anything concrete. I just need to satisfy my curiousity about what it is. Im sure its not important anymore and i aint puttin it back in cause ive never seen em in your guys' engine compartments. Any help would be great, thanks!

Mine doesnt look anything like that. I have a feeling i have a little fabbing to do, one way or another. I can either do what arizona z car shows, or i can notch the mount the stock firewall-mounted lever is attached to. That way the gas pedal just has a little more travel. All i need on the Holley side is about 3/8" of more cable travel for wide open throttle. But as you can see, its a bit janky right now. By the way, do i have the linkage mounted to the correct hole on the throttle on the carb? Once again, kinda how it was when i got it, but if i should move it let me know.

I;m pretty sure i put the battery back the way it was, but it wasnt the first brain fart i had that day, so its possible i put the battery in backwards without bothering to check the terminals. It really was one of those days! And i stand corrected, the key was in the "on" position, not "start" like i had said before. I checked my ignition and the spring loaded feature functions properly, so it couldnt have been as i stated before. Looks like i got you guys to keep my head on straight!

Ok guys, I am an idiot! I found out why I got smoke, and you'll laugh. I had the battery out of the car, and I had the key in the ignition turned to the "start" position, because i had moved it around a little and needed to steer. I completely forgot that it was keyed on and something probably overloaded when I was connecting the battery. The weird thing is, i didnt get any noise from the starter, but it was in the "start" position. Anyways, any more help might still be needed. Thanks guys

Oh cool, man, thanks! I was worried that something under the dash got tweaked around, but I was careful not to yank on anything in case of a short.

Has anyone here had any problems with their throttle linkage not allowing wide-open throttle on a 4 barrel carb conversion? I have an L26 with the Arizona ZCAR four barrel conversion, and i cant seem to get the linkage to open the throttle "wide-open". It doesnt have enough travel and with the accelerator to the floor, it only allows for about 75-80 percent throttle. I didnt install the conversion, it was on the car already, so im not sure if the proper brackets were installed, or if i need to modify the existing firewall mounted stock accelerator lever.

Hey guys. I have an early (9/73) 260, and Im in the process of gutting/sorting through what im keeping and getting rid of. I took out my center console and unplugged all of the corresponding wires regarding the hazards, radio, etc. Basically anything that was mounted in the console. I had removed my battery a couple weeks ago, and just recently put it on the charger to see if it would hold charge. The battery charged right up overnight to 100% and so i figured i would put it in and see if i could crank up my engine. As i was hooking up the negative terminal, i got the usual small spark on contact and then proceeded to tighten up the connector. After about 5 seconds, though, i saw smoke starting to come out of the plastic cap on the fusible link. I quickly took the negative back off the battery and took off the plastic cover to find that the black wire had started to melt through the rubber. Anyways... I havent tried to reconnect anything yet, mainly because i have to get a new wire, but im concerned with what might have changed in my electrical system. I bought the car from a friend, and it had been in running condition before with no electrical problems. The only reason why its not running now, prior to this current dilemma, was a clogged supplemental fuel pump, which ive removed and am running new lines. I am VERY new to electrical work, and would like some advice on what may have caused this wire to melt. Bad ground? Blown fuse? Im green, so you can be brutal. Im no dummy, but quite ignorant, i guess, when it comes to a car's electrical system. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys, thanks much. Yeah, I currently dont have any money and I have the spare parts to get it running layin around the barn, but it wouldve sucked if i had to go out and get a replacement, even only at 70 bucks. But what i hear is good news! Pics coming soon...

Hey guys, I am rather new here, and although i didn't find my answer when I searched, I figured someone may have asked this question at one time or another. My question is, is it absolutely necessary to have the electric supplemental pump on the 260z, or is it more used for priming the line or keeping the line pressurized with high rpm performance. Mine is busted and clogged, and all I need to get the engine running is fuel delivery. My mechanical pumps works fine. Would it be horrible to run the car and take it easy driving only using the mechanical pump? Thanks much