Capt_Zorro
-
Posts
86 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Capt_Zorro
-
-
There's plenty of room between the engine and firewall, if I made some more I'd probably move the engine about 1/2-1 in. farther back. There's room to get to the front sump oil plug without any problem. the hood clears the air filter with an edelbrock intake also. These bolt onto the Ford block and to the stock Datsun motor mount. If you are making some serious horsepower an engine strap would be a good idea as the added length could twist the stock mount quite a bit. The engine I have in mine is a .30 over 302 with ported and polished '69 351 heads, haven't had a problem with it in over 15 yrs. I made a trans. mount out of 1" square tubing and welded a piece of 1/4" thick angle iron to the back of it, moved it back as far as I could in the Datsun attachment points and drilled the holes for the ford trans. mount.
I'm at the Firestation today so can't measure the setback of the mounts, I'll get if for you tomorrow if you need it.
Adios Amigos,
-
Here are some pics of the motor mounts I told you about previously they were built about 15-20yrs. ago.
and the LSC motor on the test stand, It's running good, going to change the plugs and plug wires. And see if I can dial in the AVS a little more.
-
Titanium,
I'd recommend a 5.0 H.O. out of a Lincoln LSC '88-90. It's the same as 5.0 H.O. in a Mustang but they have usually not seen the abuse that the Mustang motors have. I picked up one last week out of an '89 for $500.00 that was showing 105,000 that has over 150# compression on every cylinder. The early ones had forged pistons, roller cam, all the good H.O. stuff without having been run hard and put up wet.
If you want to run the fuel inj. Winsor Fox or Painless wireing have a harness that you can use to interface with the Z for around $500.00 I believe. I changed mine over to a carb. to get it running on the test stand, but by the time you buy the intake, carb., new steel gear dist. you have about as much as the harness costs.
Adios Amigos,
-
I'll try to check with him next week. He lives about an hours drive away now. He's wanting to change out the motorsports clutch in his ZX as the pedal pressure is too much for stop and go driving on the interstate around here. Since he has retired he finally has time to spend on his projects again. Our old 55+ legs aren't what they used to be. One reason I'm wanting to put an AOD in mine. I told him I'd give him a hand with it about 10 yrs. ago and he is finally calling in his markers.
Adios Amigos,
-
-
-
Here are some more of the shop and some of the projects I've been working on since I did the Z.
Adios Amigos,
-
305240,
T
thanks for the tip. Here is a pic. of my building garage. -
10-4 on the oil cooler, it couldn't hurt. Let me know how the Summit alum. radiator works out. I have an old Junkyard rad. on mine and have never hooked up the AC as I knew it would be marginal.
Where did you get the ZX rear disc kit at? I have the plans for making the brackets but have never gotten "around to" making them. I don't think I'd warm up the bridgeport for $130.00.
Adios Amigos,
-
305240, Yea I know what you mean. Sometimes I think that this is Aversion therapy. It's great when it all comes together tho.
You might want to check with Summit, they have an oil filter adapter that turns the filter 90 degrees that I would have used if it had been available when I built mine. Think it's around 50 bucks.
Adios Amigos,
-
This is my "parking garage", the building garage is definately not this clean.
If you used a smaller diameter air cleaner it would be possible to put a bar in.
I prowled around the garage today and found a set of motor mounts that I made for the Z project. If my camera and modem will keep working I'll try to get up pic of them on the forum.
My Son and I went to the junkyard yesterday and picked up a 5.0 HO motor out of a 89 Lincoln LSC. We've been working on it today trying to get it cranked. It looks good inside, I did a Leak down test on it and the cylinders ranged from 70 to 80 lb. pressure. Trying to find a duraspark dist. to change it over to Carb. I've got several but the shaft on the dist. I took out is longer. Already got the intake on getting ready to go down and put the Carb. on it.
Adios Amigos,
-
-
Muscle,
My buddy with the ZX with the 302 used the original Z mount and came back with thick angle iron to make his own. I'll check and see if he still has the plans for them. He had some for putting disc on Z that he gave me last week.
Adios Amigos,
-
EZ,
Thanks for the info. Did you have to do any cutting on the floorboards on your AOD installation? Were you able to use the stock trans bracket location or did you have to reinforce the floorpan and move the mount back? I have a C4 in my Z now and am planning on changeing it out to an AOD if isn't a whole lot of trouble.
I'd check around the junkyards for one of the shifters and see how much trouble it would be to modify it to fit the AOD. I have a 2002 Lincoln LSE that has the select shift auto shifter that is sweet, but it's for a 5 speed auto. Might be able to modify one of these, but don't see many in the junkyards yet.
Adios Amigos,
-
I tried to log on Photo bucket but it said something about they had the bucket full... would be down for awhile.
No the steering cleared fine on my Z, my buddy had to rework the same header to fit his ZX tho.
I had to use a remote oil filter and mount and a rear sump pan and pickup. If I had it to do over I would move the engine back about another inch for better clearance.
Adios Amigos,
-
Don't know if I'd cut on the frame, if you do make sure to reinforce it well. Southern Rods has their generic tight tuck headers for the SBF for $109.00 for the plain and $190.00 for the coated now. http://www.Southernrods.com is their webpage I believe. I don't know if this is the same header as the one I have, but the price is about the same.
I used the stock trans. mount holes but made up a new mount, just basically 1'' square tubeing with a 3/8 plate welded to it to catch the trans mount. I just bolted the angle to the motor and used the Datsun rubber mount on the other end. If I can ever figure out how to post pics I have one of the mounts out in the garage I can post a pic of. I made two or three when I did mine thinking I might sell a few but the liability of it scared me off.
Had a good day at the junkyards today, found a pair of T bird Turbo Coupe seats, spoiler and hood for my Son's old T Bird for a "C"note. The guy had a H0 5.0 out of a Lincoln LSC for $500.00 that I may go back and get next week. It has the AOD with it but it looks larger than a Mustang trans. Was the Lincoln AOD a larger unit?
Adios Amigos,
-
Some of the pics on the site the guy's have run stock manifolds, apparently this forum doesn't get much traffic or someone would have posted.
When I built my Z several years ago I used a cheap generic set of block huggers that I got from Southern Rod over in S.C.
I just cut some thick angle plates and drilled them for the ford motor mount holes and ran them foward and welded on some plates that would connect to the original Z car motor mounts. They aint purdy but have lasted OK ;^) .
I used a double sump pan from a Mustang, a remote oil filter and mount, pressure regulator for the fuel pump, new radiator with electric fan, (found it in the junkyard, it's a three row off a midsize pontiac), fabbed up the trans mount, cut the driveshaft, and ran new mufflers and tailpipes. I did it all for less than $1,500.00 including rebuilding the 302, but that's been about 15 yrs. ago.
The C-4 fits in well but that's one of the things I'd like to change when I re-do mine. It's geared to low for interstate cruising. The highest gear you can find for a Z car is around a 3:30 I believe. So I'm having an AOD rebuilt now to try to put in mine.
If I can help you with anything drop me an e-mail.
Adios Amigos,
-
I used a cheap "generic" set of block huggers that I got from Southern Rods and didn't have to do any cutting on them at all. My buddy tried them in his ZX and had to modify them for it. Used the stock starter also, but it's close. Did my own Motor and trans mounts, so your milage may vary..
Adios Amigos
-
Dan,
Thanks for the prompt reply. I talked to the guys at gear vendors at the Street Rod Nats South. They have a nice product, but a little pricey for me.
I've already got a C-4 sitting in the back of the garage so I guess I'll have "bookends" next.
I was primarily concerned about clearance problems, I hate to have to take the plasma cutter to the floorboards. Building the trans. mount and drive shaft shortening aren't a big problem as I've been working on Street Rods for about 15yrs. and have a fairly well stocked shop. There are a couple driveline shops here in town that will shorten and balance a drive shaft reasonably.
I picked up an AOD shifter at one of the Mustang specific wrecking yards yesterday. They had an aluminum headed "trick flow" 5.0 engine for sale. The owner offered it to me for $1,500.00. It has 105,000 miles on the odometer. Has been hit in the front but doesn't appear to have damaged the engine any. He cranked it up and it doesn't smoke or knock, only has a little valvetrain noise. He said that it had roller rockers that was causing the noise. What do you guy's think, should I pick it up or let it pass?
Adios Amigos,
-
Hi Guys,
I'm new to the forum but have had a '77 V8 280Z for about 15 yrs. Started out with one of the Aluminum Buick V8's but changed over to a Ford 302 with C-4. I was never happy with it as it was geared to low with the stock Z rear end. Was considering changing it to a 5 speed but a buddy of mine put one in his ZX and had clutch problems. He has finally retired so we may take it out soon and see what is wrong with it.
I have a friend of mine building an AOD for me now. What problems will I run into changing out the C-4 to the AOD? New driveshaft, different yoke, crossmember, clearance, flexplate, linkage, TV cable, speedometer cable? any or all of these.
Adios Amigos,
thanks for the tip. Here is a pic. of my building garage.
Paint shop in or around Atl.
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Paul,
If you don't mind driveing up to Knoxville, I'd recomend Daniel Kerbo at Kerbo's Kustom Klassics. He is one of the best paint and body men in the Southeast. Used to work for Larry Griffey who does a lot of Hot Rods for the heavy hitters. He likes to do small jobs between the long term project cars. 865-687-9122
Silver is a hard color to paint without getting light and dark spots in it.
Adios Amigos,