buZy

Here is another pic of the underbelly. I did use 4 angle channels on the full rectangle steel frame rails, that was some time ago. Have not riveted the seat pans in yet it's all being fabbed first before final assembly. Just finshed tiging the inside trans x-members last week. You can better see the section in question on the driver side does have more room for more material. I just took off a bit too much off making it before...opps. When finished there will be 6 fasteners used instead of the 4 shown. Brian

Does anyone know how much static weight the transmission crossmember would have to support with my particular set up? And if to project this idea further, How much weight does it have hold under normal street driving use? i.e. inertia loads vibs positive to negative g's FWIW... I have a crossmember cnc from 6160 alum that was in use for about 2000 miles and held great no cracks but instincts to me section or two "might" be pushing the limits. At that time it was bolted to the floor pan only. And mean floor pan only! Now the floor is way beefed. (monoque lowered seat pans with interior trans x-member all in alum not showing pics till its assembled) But anyways here is a pic of the piece in question. Unless someone sees something very wrong here I would to use it again because at this rate, in this lame state, I might get to test it once before winter sets in. Temporary, can always make another one of some kind similar fastened. The section in question is the drivers side from the floor up into tunnel. The size is only 1.50 wide front to rear of car X .52 thick. Sorry for the long thread. Brian

damm hoss dem boyz can run fast

WOW $1250 for all that Z. Yea way piddly. You scored a major deal! Man it seems I always learn the hard way in life. Please post a photo if you can. Would love to see that ride!

Wow it drives and only 3gs....I have that much in my trans alone....... It's Way Worth It! Nice Ride! Awesome, way better than I imagined! 240 or 280 who cares. Buy it for sure!

3 g's for a 240z already V8 converted and runs it's a good deal. Even if there is some rust on it. It all depends on how it drives, very important that will tell you much about the car. If it goes down the road and doesn't shake to death or overheat instantly it's way worth it. In the end it matters if you really like that particular car..... Good luck and hope you end up buying it!

Mine is a TSW185 Thermo Dynamics. TIG function works awesome very adjustable indeed. It will weld .125 alum really sweet. .187 is as far it will go in alum. My best friend is welder by trade. When I ask him what is good and what sucks he says....You get what you pay for.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400226+115+315460&autoview=sku

I just use a direct switch and monitor the temp. Less wires and hastle. Though I have to say that Jons idea does sound like a darn good one indeed.

I'd go with a V8 as Clifton stated above. You can easily get 300hp streetable torque and much more reliable compared to tweaking in a turbo setup. The V8 is not a hard swap. JTR makes it very possible and there are many here who can help you through it. As far as mileage goes my Z does 16 mpg in 6th at a 75mph cruise speed. Not bad for all that power on tap. Compared to my 2006 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7 liter 4 cyl does 19 on average.

Wow looking really good! And plus a 454! I see sub 10 sec quarters in your future! Just a thought you might want to subbrace your fire wall and inner fenders.

It is if you have the money!

Anyone know if this is the oem fuse panel? As you can see I am in dire need of a replacement. It appears to plug into the oem harness. To make a new from scratch would be alot of work so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Brian

Oh my God! That is a killer block! EDIT: WAy Jealous!

Hey guys let's give it a chance. It may just run ok enough to work out the cars bugs. Swaping motors is an easy no brainer task. Getting the car to run and perform as desired is the true hard part. Your better off spending your hard earned money there first. Get the JTR manual. Have you tried spinning the motor over by hand with the spark plugs out? If it's seized to where you need a huge breaker bar and doesn't break free you are better off finding another motor. If it breaks loose some what easily, pull a head or two and check for bores corrosion. If inspected ok then test your static compression with oiled bores and if it's with in 20% as A.G. stated I would say you have a runner! Yea it's some work but it won't cost you much. A cheap basic auto compression tester and some gaskets that you have to buy anyways. If all works out don't forget to replace the oil pump and timing chain too. Cheap insurance. It will be cool to see what you come up with.

Nice ride! Too bad the mill is not in a Z!

It would be just fine, You wouldn't notice a difference if any. Arizona Z car sells the same part for less money than that Ebay auction. AZC parts are the of best quality and performance bar none. Check it out and see for yourself. Brian http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html

Yea way tight! And that clean black finish is killer on a ZX.

A static compression check would be a good idea. Or a leak down test if you have the equipment.