buZy

side view of car and top view of car. which make two planes of viewing. True paralell axis of trans output shaft and rear pinion. With the paralell set run your driveshaft at 1 to 2 max. Do a search there is tons here on that subject. Also see Petes Z pages are most exelent! I dont have the link off hand but maybe some here could chime in on that. Good luck!

Killer Gauges Man! Nice work!

If one goes that far..... why not swap in a LS1? Alum V8 sounds good to me.

i just removed my rears. Easy. Remove gland nut, DS and upper strut mount. Brakes intact. Tipped the housing out and slid the strut past the fender wheel well, just barely though. If you have flares I don't think you could pull it off that way.

I like these cambers plates and they dont require welding either. #204-1017 http://www.designproductsracing.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=513

I understand what you mean by suspension and motion binding in reguards to travel. The rear bar I checked its motion and it does not hit the frame. Bar also pivots freely in car when end links removed. Would it be safe to assume that the bar is working properly for most part?

What is sway bar bind? If possible in what basic ways can I begin testing to find out? Curious if my rear bar facing front is doing just that.

Cool Swap! Means you might have to dent a tube or two. I had to do just one and minor at that. No big deal really.

Wow those trucks are sick!

Cool Thread!

Rear poly control arm bushings for a 71' Z? I checked with Summit and Jegs and they are a special order item at least a month away. I can't wait that long and thought someone here might know of a better source. Thanks! Brian

I wish there were that many Z's and auto repair places like that here in salt rusted to death and freezing cold MN. You are lucky to have such a find. ...Yea, I would get both too!

Cool Lights and great progress on the Z!

Nice welder Doug!

Looks Great! Sweet roll cage too!

Holy huge turbo batman!

Thumbs Up and nice job!

Are these exhaust pipes and front air dams for real??? YUK Have to say though that blue 300Z is tasty!

Yea! Cool Thread!

Wet sand with 600 grit, then 1000 grit, then plastic polish and a lot of rubbing will bring back more shine than thought possible. It works! Have done this many times before on these headlight covers and old faded tailights. For almost that cost you can just obtain new headlight covers from Altec Products. They will sell direct and beat MSA's cost. Ask for Greg. Here is the link... http://altecproducts.com/products_zzxlenses.htm

Ok then how much can I lower a 240z car with out doing the sections? Or same question but phrased in a different way, What is the minimum available strut travel distance needed for street use? This is not a race car..... nor is it a daily driver. I just want to lower the ride height a bit. Thanks! Brian

Cool Z race car!

I often see many who cut and section there struts on z cars. And some who don't too. I did do a search and found much but still have questions. My questions are.... What is advantages and disadvantages and or fuctions to this process? Is it just to gain move travel when the car is lowered? If so then to me (with out knowing thing about this) it would seem like a win/win situation with no compromises having to balance or sacrifice. Thanks everyone this site truly is the best place on the interent.

Yea! Looks really nice! Great job Austin!

How about this idea....just maybe... Worn out steering colum u-joints. There is two of them between the steering wheel and rack and pinion. Also too is an 'isolator' that looks like a typical 3 inch round rubber donut near the upper u-joint. That too gets loose/soft/worn over time. Have you checked these three areas for wear and or movement?? Undesired motion in those jointed intersections would be magnified at the steering wheel outside diameter and may be part of this tracking issue.