Cobra_Tim
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Posts posted by Cobra_Tim
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The lift under the crossmember hasn't been released.
Its lowered completely
It hasn't been rolled to unbind the suspension after
Everything is unbound
That guy in the picture is very strong and is pulling up on something.
Im not that strong... but thanks for the compliment
You have low profile tires, creating a bigger gap.
They are 225/45/15... not that abnormal on these cars. We can throw on a set of 225/50/15s but its not that big of a difference.
You installed too-tall springs.
See the title of the thread
There's a few clues. You haven't really given any info about the parts. Springs, isolators, perches...every car has those.
Again, See the title of the thread. Its the off the shelf MSA/Eibach kit for a 280z. (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20c01/23-4042)
Filled in the blanks.
Just seems to me that for an off the shelf performance kit, it should be quite a bit lower.
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Anyone have a clue as to why this car is so damn high? I understand we can get the rear lower with an early shock isolator but what about the front? We're building a chumpcar which keeps us from using the typical sectioned struts with coil-overs. Springs are sitting in the perches correctly and the spacers/bearings are installed between the top perch and the isolators. We don't want to sacrifice shock travel to go lower but it seems to me that it should at least be a few inches lower than it is.
Anyone have any idea?
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Could also use the Whomba lever for cruise control
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Have you thought about header design yet? I wonder if just copying the primary length and diameter off a known good K series header would be a good idea.
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I pull the plugs and crank the engine over till I see about 5lbs or oil pressure.
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Oh my... Nice way to open the thread BTW
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BAD John BAD!
These dry rot over time and can pop at high pressure... leaving you with an over heated engine. Its actually best to connect the back of the head back to the radiator outlet, but we've ran it plugged (threaded outlet) for years with no problems.
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Shitty pic from my facebook... This is on our ITS car
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Hey John... It seems like we've burned up our subie diff... Whats the best way to rebuild or shim the thing to get it back into spec?
Sorry for the thread hijack... at least its on the same topic.
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Come to Sebring...
We'll have several Sam powered Z cars there already... Always love to have more
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Or worn stock springs on a ITS 2.4L engine. At Cal Speedway and a couple Buttonwillow configurations you have to run that engine over 7,300 rpm for a time. After a race weekend you see a 5% drop in valve spring pressure on the stock springs from doing that. The next race weekend you will only see 7,150 rpm before the engine flattens out. Keep pushing it and you won't be able to go over 7,000 by the end of the weekend. If you don't replace the valve springs you'll bend a valve the following race weekend on one of your heroic pass efforts at the end of the longest straight. Ask me how I know that.
Ditto... Been there and done that... not too fun
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Convert back to an open diff and give me the LSD?
We use Redline 75-90 with GL-5 in our IT car.... Weres great.
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Could go with a Mini Club Waggon, Acura TSX, Mazda 3, Legacy GT, or Altima
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Car all the way on the right side of the tent
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Damn... I didnt make your cut huh?
I had the white/blue/red ITS car in the tent next to that GT car... Took 3rd in class during the enduro
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Joined
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7 is as wide as we can go... We currently run some heavy aluminium 15x7s with zero offset
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There is a set were looking at picking up for the IT car...spacer would be a must for sure.
If your on IT forums... please dont buy there out from under us
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How bad is the car from the firewall back?
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Three things...
1) These axles seem to stick out a bit farther then a stock unit. Am I right about this?
2) It looks to me the retaining clip is internal to the diff, again am I correct?
3) What kinda fluids should I run in this thing... We like redline in the tranny, do they have a product anyone would recommend?
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148771
This will be your best option if you have to stick with an r180...
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Tony, Like this?
Right now I have mine setup like Mallory has in figure 3B... 3A would be more appropriate?
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/maa-4309.pdf
76 280z with MSA Spring Kit 23-4042 and Tokico Blues
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Thats a good point. Used offset bushings were installed and torqued on all the inner control arm mounting points front and back (the typical kits that have been around forever.) But I swear there was no little to no binding. Still have the oem rubber in the outer rear.
There is a 1" diameter difference between a 225/45/15 and 225/50/15 so I'm sure that adds to it.