bigbreak_2000

Does anyone use wheel caps on the rota shakotans on a 280zx? If so, what caps are you using? I have these wheels on my car but none of the stock rota caps fit over the dust cap of the 280zx.

Finally got this figured out - the problem was angulation of the axles. Once I installed CV style axles made by wolf creek racing the vibration is entirely gone.

After slotting the rear diff mount, effectively moving the diff up by about 3/8 in, I'd say 90% of the vibration is now eliminated. I'm now convinced the tokico lowering springs caused the geometry of the rear suspension to change to the extend that alignment of the differential (with deflection under full power) was thrown off and thus resulted in a vibration. Keep in mind this is a 280zx 2+2. I find it strange that no one else reported similar issues with lowering springs on a 280zx. Originally when the springs were installed it lowered the car by no more than 1 inch, so not extreme. I could slot the diff mount further, perhaps another 1/4 in, in attempt to completely eliminate the vibration, or re-install the stock springs. Slotting may be a fix but not necessary curing the root cause of the issue. My question is still, have we perhaps overlooked something done wrong in the process of converting the R200 to a Qauife LSD unit?

I desperately need some help on this vibration issue. Car still has bad vibration under hard acceleration, and now hearing somewhat of a low humming sound coming from the right rear end at speed between 50-70mph....even after we've done all of the following: All nuts and bolts on suspension was checked, mechanics combed this car front to back and there is nothing on this car loose or show any abnormal wear or tear. Car was never in any kind of accident Replaced driveshaft with a new unit. The u joint on the original unit, at both ends of the shaft, locked slightly. The new unit was fully balanced and upgraded with higher strength splicer u joints Checked the crankshaft for play or looseness, no issues there Re checked the flywheel installation - it is a new JWT balanced flywheel. At same time inspected the clutch and pressure plate yoke and bearings on transmission side, relative new unit, no signs of anything loose or uneven wear. Bellhousing bolts was little loose on first inspection but those are tight now absolutely no noises from transmission and it shifts hold gears etc like a brand new unit Re checked alignment, Re balanced all 4 tires/tires, brand new wheels and tires, rotated and no issue Replaced both rear cross member insulators with Nissan OEM parts Replaced transmission mount and rear diff insulator with Nissan OEM parts, did notice that the diff insulator was previously installed incorrectly with the "U" upside down Engine mounts are good and tights Opened diff carrier (R200 longnose), visually inspect Qauife LSD (new) ..did notice some backlash and wear on the main gear but will pull unit out next week to have indept inspection and have backlash corrected. Removed and inspected both side shafts - straightness, bearings all seems good Wheel beatings checked, no play Swapped new tokico struts with new bilstein struts, did not reduce any vibration Checked exhaust brackets and experimented by removing solid mid mount to see if exhaust shaking could cause issue, but it was not it With the car jacked up in the air, rear suspension fully decompressed, visually it looks like the right rear wheel is at a very slight different angle than the left. Not sure this is an indication of anything. Suspecting next step is to disassemble the entire rear suspension, check that cross member arm bushings are not bad inside, control arm is not bent, check bearings holding stub axle and that the stub axles itself is not bent. Highly doubt because the car was never in any accident and the vibration was not there before we installed the LSD diff and lowered the car with tokico springs. I do remember hearing occasionally a squeaking noise from the right rear wheel at low speed but thought this was just the clip on the brake pad. Anyone here have suggestions on what else I need to look for that would cause the vibration?

Thanks for the replies. How many hours of labor would be involved in changing the rear mount bushing and cross member bushings? Assume that I have access to a technician that are skilled and familiar with working on the datsuns.

clutch in no vibration. the diff is the r200 with 3.9 ratio.

Sorry I cant answer your q on fitment of the 280zx filter housing in an earlier z. I share the quest for a better intake system. I had a big cone filter on my car mounted in front of the radiator but was also worried about water filtration. And I've often seen little stones and road debri caught in the filter element. My experience on the housing itself is this: The k&n oval filter that fits in this 280zx filter housing flows about 500 cfm. I was told that by the k&n technician. The 90 degree elbow on the 280ZX NA filter housing has a relative small ID (2.5 in). The inlet size and tubing ID is going to be your restriction. So, I modified the stock NA 280ZX airfilter housing so I could fit a 3 in ID tube that goes to the engine. Before I went through this trouble I should have done my homework. I later found out that the 280zx-turbo housing already has a larger 3 in elbow and also 2 intake ducks. This flows appropriate for my application (3.2 stroker making 240+whp). I bought a turbo filter housing off ebay for $10, cleaned and painted it. It looks all stock and I have not noticed any performance loss going to this setup vs. a open cone filter.

Any suggestions of what to inspect/check that could cause this vibration?...car is 1981 280zx 2+2 NA. Under normal driving there is no vibration. Smooth at constant speed, shift up/down gears easily, no vibration on deccel, no vibration on smooth acceleration all way up to top end, etc however only bad judder/vibration when hard accelerating, in lower gears (2nd, 3rd) 4500 - 6500 rpms. Makes about 250whp. Recently installed quaife LSD, JWT flywheel, tokico lowering springs. Technician says both front and rear u joints on the driveshaft is stiff, will get a new driveshaft with beefier dana spicer 1802-5-1310x u joints. Just yesterday installed a new OE transmission mount but it made no difference. They looked over the engine mounts, suspension bushings and everything else seems ok. When they have the car back on the lift next week just want to make sure they don't overlook something else that would need tightening or replacing. Driveshaft replacement is not cheap and unnecessary if that's not going to resolve the problem.

IncompetentOne..shoot me a PM with your contact number. I have several stock parts if that is what you're looking for. They're all like new and usable for any restore project. Came of my car that only had 14k original miles on. Intake manifold, ECU, wiring harness, fan clutch, MAF sensor, intake rubber boots, different Fuel Inj sensors, air filter (stock and K&N cone style), fuel pump, fuel rail, bake pads, etc. I basically restored the stock 2.8 motor to a like new condition, this way I learned how all the OEM stuff worked together, and than I got bored and decided to go a different route with a more performance orientated motor. Over time I also upgraded flywheel, clutch, suspension shocks and springs, front brakes and differential but those OEM parts have already found a new home. In a few days I am replacing the steering rack, and swapping Tokico rear shocks with Bilsteins if you want the rear set of Tokico's let me know..they have less than 500 miles on . I originally ordered the Bilsteins from Germany but they took 3 months to get and now I have them so I will try them out. I am also considering selling the Compomotive ML wheel and BFG tires, this is an extra set that I kept for summer driving. They are just taking space in my garage. The wheels and tires are also like new and less than 2000 miles on. The wheels are 15x7 front and 15x8 rear, all 0 offset, bolt pattern 4x114.3. Really strong wheels. I special imported them from the UK. Gunmetal color. The tires are BFG 205/55 front and 225/50 rear. Its BFG G-force sport tires. V rated tires. The sidewalls are hard and the profile is just too low for my car, it dropped my ground clearance to 3.5 in and road surfaces are bad in my part of town so I changed to a 60 profile and slightly softer sidewall tire, on 7 in wheels. But the compomotives are sturdy and BGG tires have excellent grip, a very nice combination for a track car.

What could be potential negative impacts if I run the LD28 waterpump? I got hold a brand new Aisin pump and getting ready to install it, but now not certain if there are other impacts I may need to compensate for. For ex. is it going to cause gasket leaks over time, would it also be a strongly recommended to upgrade the lower radiator hose to the style that has the inner spring to prevent hose collapse at higher rpms? I bought the pump because I liked the idea of extra insurance against knock and overheating related issues but now not sure installing the pump is worth the effort and money installing it in my scenario. Once you go through the effort to modify the front cover to fit this pump there is no return to using the stock L28 petrol engine pump (more freely available). This question pertains to my 3.2 stroker motor, using a stock 280zx cooling system (radiator, rubber hoses, 50/50 blend water/coolant, no mods to water passages). Only mods I have is a 160 degree F t-stat, replaced the fan clutch and took shroud off in lieu of a large electric fan (set to turn on if I remember correctly at 170 degrees F). Most time the motor turn between 3000 and 5000 rpms but occasionally 6500rpms. I don't run it over 7000 rpms and never constant (for longer durations) over 6000rpms. The next owner might, but I don't (not for now). In the humid summer days and at stop lights I would see the water temp go as high as 81 degrees C (178 F), and it appears the ave operating temperate of the motor is around 76/77 degrees C (170 F, or just below the point where the fan turns on).

PM sent. Adaptronics E420c ECU and yes it has a knock sensor and two O2 sensors, one for sure I know is AEM wideband

I take my car to Nisstech for regular maintenance, factory stock parts and light mods - they are super super good at that. But for standalone ECU map tuning I need someone with access to a dyno. The idling is smooth, drivability all been sorted out already. I do most of the ECU tune just by analyzing log files. The areas I need help with are 1) to set the max safe timing in the mid range (3000prms up) at 60% load and up. I had audible knock which I adjusted the timing for, it is quiet now but I may have retarded a bit too much. I also need to recalibrate my knock sensor to mask valve train noises. I still see knock values in the 3k-3.5k range. My timing between 3-4k rpms is low 20's.. 2) I had the top end tuned by Franz Diebolt up in Virginia. We only got 240whp and the motor was maxing out at 6.5k rpms. However since then I discovered that there was an issue with the throttle linkage not opening the butterflies all the way...it was maxed out at 81% according to the tps reading. So I made an adjustment to the gas pedal and now I visually can see the throttles are wide open when the gas pedal is fully pressed, and the tps now reads 100%. So I want to get the top end retuned. But before I have that done I want someone to help me think through the best intake solution for the motor. Right now I am just using a TWM Airbox with a Vibrant filter (5W X 3L) at the end. I don't know if here are better filter options and if I should move the filter out of the engine compartment to the front of the radiator where I presume it will get cooler air and perhaps the "piping" will give a little better airflow (velocity effect) into the airbox.

Can anyone recommend a good tuner within 100 miles of Charlotte NC? I have a Rebello 3.2 L6 with ITBs and aftermarket ECU, it needs a good re-tune. I think the motor is also restricted on the intake side so I need someone to see what I have and give me good advise on getting the motor to run optimal.