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randylwjr

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About randylwjr

  • Birthday 12/26/1986

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Detroit
  • Interests
    I love music, it is my first and foremost passion. After music comes women and cars.

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  1. That was one of the main issues I had with this, if you couldn't get power to the front wheels then what would be the point. I've been doing more research and it seems that these engines can only handle maybe up to 300hp. This is because they are die cast which causes them to be more efficient but have thinner cylinder walls. Also there is nothing on any aspect of this build. No one has dropped in a spec v into a Rogue, I don't if it can be done, or matted the 6 speed manual with the transfer case. Actually I'm getting the feeling that the transaxle and the transfer case are one in the same. Haven't really come across that too much but it would make sense. The down side of that though is that you would be stuck using the CVT, which would make for a great drag car but then you're not really using the AWD. Maybe in a few years when I have the money I'll attempt something of the sort, or maybe there will be more info on it. I'm not worried about the work, in my opinion that is the fun part. Driving it all done is awesome but the build gets me excited and if I wanted easy I wouldn't think about swaps
  2. One thing that I did read about is that it is intuitive all wheel drive which means that it is only AWD when the AWD module senses slipping, but you can set it to AWD lock which puts it in AWD until a certain speed is reached, although there doesn't seem to be any definite answer as to what that speed it. I've read from 10 up to 25 mph. I would imagine that there would be someway around this. Depending on exactly how the module activates the AWD it could be something as simple as running 12v to the transfer case, one could even throw a switch in there to turn it on and off, this is all hypothetical though, I would have to look at the wiring diagrams and schematics. Worse case though is that one turns it on to get up off the line then it turns off, one would loose the AWD handling but I don't think it would be that bad, aside from then having a FWD vehicle.
  3. Have any of you thought about doing this swap? It was an idea I had the other day while doing an oil change on a Rogue that has this engine and is AWD. I briefly looked up performance parts, there is a bit of an aftermarket. I was thinking that one would get a Sentra spec v QR25DE and mate it up with the CVT and AWD from the Rogue. I was looking at the numbers and the spec v did 0-60 in like 7 seconds and has 180 ft lbs of torque, that is slightly less then my Z32 so this thing would get up off the line. I did come across a turbo kit for this engine as well which said it produced 275hp on the dyno. Forged internals, bigger turbo, high flowing injectors, etc, I believe that there is potential for this. The only problems unique to this build that I've come up with is obviously the driveshafts and it may be difficult/impossible to mount the engine CVT and transfer case such as to actually line up with the front wheels and with the engine being die cast it may not handle really high power output. I think though that if this was done right it would be a unique and kinda badass setup. Also I wonder if it would be possible to use the 6 speed manual trans with the transfer case. I haven't really put any deep thought into this, just kinda off the top of my head and researching for about 30 minutes. I searched on the forum here but there isn't any posts about the QR25DE so I thought I would post this. What are your thoughts as to why this would/wouldn't work and if this would be a good/bad swap.
  4. Right now I am in the process of tearing my 72 240Z down to the chassis. Overall the body is in good condition, all things considering. There is a small hole in the floor and normal rear wheel well rust, nothing too bad. I'm going to fix these issues then rebuild the car. This is how I am planning on rebuilding it, any input is always welcome. The car came with a 5 speed, which I have heard is rare in the States, I don't know if thats true. What I'm going to do L28ET Restore the fuel tank Racing seats G-nose body kit (I seen this and I know I will not be happy with anything else) Replace the rotors Rebuild the calipers Replace the pads Replace the rear brake drums and possibly shoes and cylinders (I have to check them out) Megasquirt 3 Replace the brake lines with SS Replace the fuel lines Classic style mirrors New interior fabric (carpet, vinyl, and padding) All new weather stripping Rear main seal Engine rebuild kit for the winter I am planning on using an external fuel pump New bolts, nuts, screws, and washers All new hoses I believe I'm going to use Megaspark but I must read up on it more I have priced this all out and it is roughly $6500 and double it for other stuff and misc. That puts me right around 13000, my goal is to build it for under $15000. Does anyone have any good suggestions for an aftermarket radiator? Should I do anything to the suspension? I don't plan on putting the heater core back in, I will only drive it in the sun during warm months. Any other ideas as to what else I can delete? Thank you Randy
  5. Megasquirt would be nice. I'll have to see how much the ecu and harness is, if they are roughly the same price then I'll for sure get MS3.
  6. I'll look him up when I have a little more money. At the risk of sounding like an artard, I just came across car-part.com. I have found a 82 l28et for $300 thats about 50 miles away from me. I have to call and see if that includes the harness and ecu. I was thinking about dropping that engine(wherever Iget it) in with a r200 4.11 differential. I found one of those too! I feel happy
  7. I wouldn't mind rebuilding the engine, especially if it is an et. Is Nelson a member here? Phar would you sell your engine with the harness and ecu?
  8. I would like to know what the shipping is. If it isn't too ridiculous I may be interested. My zip is 48051. If you could get me quotes for buying it plus shipping, both for yours and the et I would be extremely grateful. Thank you
  9. Thank you for answering my question about the leaded gas! I have read so many contradicting statements about it. When you say high octane gas, do you mean premium 91+? The guy is selling the engine with a l26 head which has to be an e88. With this head the CR is 9.7 Thank you again
  10. I just found a l28 block with a l26 head and carbs in columbus for $150. I emailed the guy to see if he still has it. I'm thinking if I get that engine I'll put on my e31 head to give me a CR of 10.2:1. What do you guys think?
  11. I'm friends with some people who are friends with a guy that restores old camaros and makes a pretty good living at it. People go to him from all over the country. I would buy all of the parts to build it from him. I want to build a 1970 spec lt1 350 and build it up right and put a supercharger on it. To do all of that would cost a lot of money right now. I want to get it running for relatively cheap, compared to the 350 build or swapping in a rb, and be able to drive it while I address the other areas of concern and save up the money for the engine and swap. JTR actually sparked my interest and lead me to this site so when I do do the 350 I'll definitely have the book. I have also been on craigslist for the past couple of days trying to find an engine, I have emailed all of those people and those that have emailed me back either don't have an engine or have sold it. I'm truly in no rush though, I want to have her running by the end of summer so I got time. My original post about the build was with things that i know i can readily get. thank you for your input
  12. That would be awesome. Thank you very much. I must say as well, I love your signature, I laugh every time I read it, and I have a couple of friends who are big into Honda.
  13. I honestly am confused on the whole leaded or unleaded thing. I have been searching for quite sometime and I believe I am right in saying that 77 was the first year nissan/datsun started making unleaded cars. I wouldn't mind the drive, especially for a running one for $400. I appreciate your helping with finding an engine, I've been looking with no luck really. Next week I'll start at the junk yards, maybe I'll find something there. If i could find a engine for less then the rebuild I would most definitely do that. It is a dream of mine to one day own a 1970 240z and restore it to factory everything so i could rebuild the l24 at my leisure and put it in the 1970 when i eventually get her. And I have heard of the saying and I like it. I also like the one "the only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars" it makes me laugh Thank you for your input
  14. Thank you for your response, I'm having a difficult time finding a l28 around where I live, I'm near detroit, I'm going to update my location status after I post this, sorry it isn't there. The only ones I can find are on ebay and they're are around $1000 and I would want to rebuild it so there would be that extra cost. I may just buy a l24 from somewhere close and drop that in for the mean time but this isn't going to be a daily driver, i have my 93 300zx for that, and owning a z makes you at the very least a garage mechanic so I'm thinking about taking the summer and building this engine up. I have all of the parts, aside from the crankshaft, rebuild kit, and the rods, and I have priced it all out to roughly $900. I may just go that route and not overbore the block so all in all I can do everything for about $1100-1200 which would be about what I would spend on a l28 minus the rebuild kit cost. Like I said in my first post, the real goal with this car is to drop in a sbc or rb of some sort and to build one of those is going to be a lot more money. I just want to be able to drive it and I figured for an exra $600 or so I might as well get a little more power out of it since I'll be rebuilding it anyways. I know that was long but that is my thought process behind building up the l24, I hope that makes sense to you and I'm just not going crazy, although I feel like i am with all of the research I am doing. I found ozdat.com and their engine build calculator is amazing. I will be at 9.6:1 CR with this set up so that should suit me quite well. Also was I correct with how to convert this engine to unleaded gasoline, just replace the valve seats to hardened ones? Thank you agian
  15. going insane figuring out what to do with this l24, but I think I got her

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