IdahoZ

So I want to ask for a "Locking" differential. Got it. If I find one, I understand from past posts that I will need to rebuild it. Is that correct? Is this something that can be done by a home mechanic or do I need to take it to a proffessional? I'm not afraid of trying if I have really good instructions. ow much does this usually cost to have done? Maybe I would be better off buying one that has already been rebuilt? Thanks.

I am thinking about putting a CLSD in my 240z behind a 400SBC and T-56. When I call the local junkyards and ask them if they have a differential out of a 4/87 - 89 300 ZXT, they ask me if I want the locking or non-locking one. What is the difference?

Hey that looks like it will work great. Thanks, I'll give them a call.

Can anyone tell me what is involved to convert the T56 from a speed sensor setup so you can hook up a speedometer cable? I am going to install a 400 carbureted sbc with a t56 and did not want to purchase the TBI manual from JTR just for the speedometer mod. Thanks.

Has anyone driven a car with one of the new style Tremec TKO500 or TKO600 5 speed transmissions? Rumor has it that the new models are smoother shifting and not as notchy as the 3550s and the older TKOs and TKOIIs. Here is the write up from the Tremec home page on the new models. TTC INTRODUCES AN ALL NEW LINE OF TREMEC TKO 5-SPEED TRANSMISSIONS FARMINGTON HILLS, MI — The new line of TREMEC TKO 5-speed transmissions was designed with flexibility in mind. The unique internal shift-rail system accommodates up to eight different shifter locations, ranging from 14†to 27†from the face of the bell housing. An optional shifter provides a 2†offset, left or right of the centerline, virtually guaranteeing a perfect fit in any stock console. The rear cross-member bolt pattern will fit both Ford and GM applications. All models come standard with an electronic and mechanical speedometer pick-up. Other standard features include a neutral safety switch and a back-up light sensor. Adding to the flexibility is a high-performance, billet aluminum, short-throw shifter. This specially designed shifter isolates road noise, while providing a clean crisp feel. The shifter has a unique biasing system, which is adjustable to fit any driving preference. Consistent with all TREMEC transmissions, shift stops are not necessary, since the stops are internal to the transmission. “Achieving torque-carrying capacities in excess of 600 lb. ft. from an 83mm box is no easy task,†said Jon Vieth, Product Line Manager, TTC. “Sure, we make 18-speed transmissions rated at 2,050 lb. ft. but you can’t put one of those into a passenger car. In order to achieve the desired torque capacity, we went to a higher alloy steel (4615) on all gears and shafts, increased the diameter of the output shaft to a 31 spline, and eliminated the woodruff keys on the countershaft by going to a one-piece design from the previous three piece. The shift forks were completely redesigned and are now all made from cast iron and use a three-pad contact system, virtually eliminating any deflection,†continued Mr. Vieth. According to Jim Averill, Marketing Manager, TTC, "The redesign of the TR-3550 transmission product line officially started nearly two years ago when we held a focus group meeting to obtain customer input. We gathered additional input from our distributors and the two racing schools (Bondurant and Panoz) that we sponsor. All of the feedback supported our findings from the customer focus group. With the introduction of the all new TKO-500 and TKO-600 in early March, we can deliver a 5-speed overdrive transmission sure to fit just about any application, including street rods, muscle cars and kit cars. The optional gear ratios make the TKO perfect for street, strip and road racing.â€

I would not "sand" blast a Datsun! I had my 1968 Firebird hood sand blasted by a so called expert. He told me that if he blasted it from a greater distance and at an angle it would not warp. Well, it warped pretty bad and it took a good deal of body work to get it straight and flat again. I would have purchased a new hood but the 400 hoods are very pricey. If a Firebird hood warped that bad, with all of the bracing they have, I would hate to see what would happen to a thinner Z hood with no bracing (or any other body panel). I talked with one of the local body shops and they tell me that soda blasting is the best, but very expensive. I have no experience with other media, i.e. walnut shells but would not recommend "sand" blasting. Just my 2 cents.

I'm pretty good with Photoshop if you still need assistance. dblewis@cableone.net

I talked to the local body shop that installs frame rail connectors on mustangs, camaros, firebirds, etc. and was told to support the car via the suspension (not body or frame) or put it on a lift so that the car is sitting on its tires (natural stance) while welding frame rail connectors. They strongly discouraged installing frame rails while the car is supported on a rotisserie. Found this website the other day and was considering building me a pair of these ramps instead of the rotisserie I was planning. Looks easier to build too. It would also come in very handy once the car is assembled and too heavy to put on a rotisserie. Anyone ever build something like this? I was thinking of a 12 foot long ramp. http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/

That oval shaped SS tubing would work great. Kinda pricey though. I think I will talk to the local hot rod exhaust shop and see what they are capable of doing, as I am not convident enough to make my own exhaust system. Thanks everyone for your imput.

Hey a fellow Idahoan. Good to hear from you. I live in Idaho Falls (SE corner of state). I never considered a dual inlet single outlet muffler? Wonder what the flow rate difference is compared to a dual muffler setup? I'll have to e-mail Magnaflow and ask. I was thinking of something like these sitting vertical side by side with the outlet being on the bottom so I can gain more ground clearance. My car will be a daily driver and I need as much ground clearance as possible, which lead me more toward a dual 2.25" setup vs a 3" single. Magnaflow also makes a dual inlet - dual outlet muffler? Again concerned about decreased flow rates. I'll be running around 400hp and want something pretty mild sounding / quiet as not to attract attention. I would also would like to hear my stereo when cruising down the freeway. I also plan on installing a crossover pipe behind the tranny. I like the exhaust system shown on pages 14-3 and 14-10 of the JTR manual (17th addition). Just need the clearence on the left of the spare tire well.

I will be installing a 400 SBC next year along with a 2.25" dual exhaust system on my 240Z and have a question about muffler clearance and spare tire well mods. I have read all the posts I can find about this subject but could only find mods done to the well rending it unusable for a spare tire. Has anyone installed a 280Z space saver (inflatable) spare tire and associated well in a 240Z and then installed duel mufflers to the left side of well? I started this mod the other day and looks like I should be able to gain 4" to 5" of extra clearance if I install a custom well as far to Right as possible without having to modify the fuel tank. My new well will be around 21.5" in diameter compared to the 26.5" stock well.

Didn't get a chance to talk to an upholstery shop today but will post what I find out. There are a number of automotive shops in my area so hopefully I can get the help I need. Just looking for a way to repair rips and missing pieces in my MX3 seat foam. As for junk yard seat prices, in SE Idaho, a pair of seats will go or around $30 to $100 depending on condition. I got my 92 seats for $50 a pair because of fabric wear and rips on the drivers seat along with the foam damage I am trying to repair. It also helps when your haggling if you can flirt a little with the cute girl that is working as apposed to the crusty old man that hasn't taken a bath in a couple of weeks.

OK, I decided to change out my stock 240Z seats for '92 Mazda MX3 seats I found at the local automobile grave yard. I found that using parts off both seats frames, a little engineering and some welding I was able to fabricate a functional seat frame with rails that bolt to my stock supports without sacrificing needed head room, as I am 6'3". Now I have to figure out to repair the ripped foam on my MX3 seats. It appears that damage to the foam was repaired at the factory with some type of very strong , blue fabric type material that is either very sticky or is glued onto the foam. It looks like it works really well. Does anyone know where I could get some of this material and the glue used to apply it? I did a search on the net and in HybridZ but was not successful. I'm going to try calling some upholstery shops tomorow to see if they can help.

I like the Reaction Research vents on Dan's car. Very nice. It looks like you started with a 280Z hood? I tried to photoshop some Pontiac vents on my hood to see what they would look like. Kinda cool, but not sure if I like the shape of the vents? http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&pos=-1485 I don't know how to post photos, so I uploaded the image into the Photo Album and provied a link. Hope this works.

I am seriously considering hood vent for my 72 240Z, as it will receive a 400 sbc very soon and a little help cooling the engine compartment will be needed. I have looked at using Pontiac Grandprix GTP vents, 280Z vents, even Camaro vents. Has anyone tried installing other type of vents other than using a stock 280Z hood? Dosen't look like it would be too difficult to install some vents, just not sure which vents would look good? Any suggestions would be appriciated. Has anyone installed 280Z vents in a 240Z hood? Thanks. [/img]