gibbon
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Posts posted by gibbon
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well that makes things very simple.. i'd still appreciate some pics, to minimize the chances of screwing up.
240sx trivia; way down round here theyre called silvia's
and theyre turbo -
id really like to see some pics of the rb20 installed on the 280z cuz im really leaning towards this engine. also did you go with an aftermarket ecu.
into a z or a zx? most people seem to stick with the stock rb ECU. they have very versatile maps and you can get a lot done just by chipping them. dont know how much that costs in other countries but here in NZ youre looking at $200 tops for a remapped chip
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cheers mate, thatd save a lot of hassle... my email wsadclbibtda@hotmail.com
thanks again
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I assume this is an RB26
rb20.. am i forgetting something? cheers
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ok, so you did away with the solid pivot on the firewall? just trying to work out what you've described, without looking at my car.. you made the slot in the top of the pedal itself, or somewhere on the mechanism? if it was on the pedal itself would that mean that the throttle cable looped back towards the driver before going through the firewall, to get leverage in the correct direction? cheers
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i just cut the flange off my sump and braised it on backwards, cut, rotated and rewelded the pickup and bent the windage fins down to clear the crank journals... seemed much easier and cheaper (about $5 in materials and half an hour's work) also in NZ. surely spending in the neighbourhood of $400 is a little bit drastic for this part of the conversion?
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hey if i can just hijack this thread for a second, ive got an rb20det sitting in my 280zx, i know its a different platform, but my problem should be a familiar one... basically what's the easiest way to do away with the old solid accelerator linkage and fit a throttle cable? everyone else who's done the swap must have done something at this point, but it doesnt seem to be a modification that anybody bothers to mention? cheers in advance
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the front end of the bonnet generally rusts without fail. check the firewall, and especially the sides where rainwater is funnelled off to. also look around the filler cap and the inside of the boot on the filler side of the car. they dont seem to suffer from sill rust as badly as the earlier z's do.
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hey, now ive got the skyline eccs and ignition relays hooked up, what do i ddo with the fusible link and relay boxes in the z's engine bay? i imagine that the box further towards the front can be discarded altogether, and the box just behind the suspension tower can also be cut and chucked after the ignition switch wire is spliced into the RB loom?
so can i just cut and remove them from the z engine bay loom or are there bits on them that are still needed?
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there are a number of standard cars that come with remote power steering pumps, the sw20 mr2, rx-8 and some citroen saxo's among them. if you can find them. i'm looking at doing something similar. a lot of mid/rear mounted cars have them
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just confirming, yes that little pipe is all bollocks. removed it without a hitch. still only *just* clears though
edit: also apparently the reason why the pipe runs under there is to help with cold starts. doesnt snow where i live so i figure i'll be ok
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well if it isnt, at least theres a million replacement standard throttle bodies floating around for sale. cheers for your help, i'll haul out the grinder tomrorow
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hmm ok the third pic probably shows it best. do you think theres anything to stop me from cutting away the pipe directly under the throttlebody? the more i look at it, i cant see why there'd be a water jacket of any sort around the throttle... surely its just a bit of piping?
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im not too sure.. i bought my engine in bits so am still in the process of playing around with the hoses. yes it would be nice to differentiate between the water and air hoses early on in the project, as opposed to by trial and error!
i cant get a picture up right now as its pitch black outside, and i dont have power in the garage, but i can tell you a little bit more about it if you think you can identify it, its got a solid pipe that runs crosswise under the t/b. theres another little vacuum hose coming off it too. if its water related and running under the t/b, i wonder if it's cold start related? its still looking like the easiest way to get everything to fit. does anyone know if the solid pipe actually has anything to do with the t/b, or if its just that-a pipe that runs past the throttle that nissan decided to cast into the unit for who knows what reason? because if its just that, i'll cut the whole lot off and reroute the rubber hoses together....
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argh. just welded the throttlebody on the front, didnt check for clearances.... now the little bit of set piping under the throttlebody is interfering with some valve looking thing on the fuel rail. i suppose i could space the top half of the manifold up another 5mm or the throttlebody out 5mm.. but my first option cuts down clearance space under the bonnet, and the second option will tighten the angle of my intercooler piping... what does that little pipe under the throttlebody do anyway? one pipe comes off it to the square unit that *was* on the front of the manifold, and the other seems to head off round behind the engine. if its all disposable i can cut the whole lot off (no emissions laws here
). any ideas? -
well thats the answer i was hoping for... that no problems come up until the system has to do that much work. by the time i make a setup pushing 2 bar, i'll probably fork out for the proper manifold (read: never)
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as far as i'd been told, the stock setup isnt the greatest either, tho... (i admit that ive only been told this, dont have the numbers to back it up or anything). as far as i can see, the center t/b is biased towards the center two cylinders, and (again apparently) cylinder #1 will lean out under heavy boost. the 'obvious' improvements i was referring to are eliminating the crossover pipe over the hot engine, and the big bend and double back the piping would have to do on the inlet side of the intercooler in order to bring the pipe back around to that side of the engine. i understand the advantages of such a setup though, especially if its an existing setup. if i was going from an l28et equipped car with a front mount already in place, to an rb, i'd be tempted to keep the crossover as the pipes are already both on that side of the car. however, im going from an n/a, and so im looking at making up a whole new set of pipes, and i cant say that the idea of making up pipes turning 180 degrees, travelling back past the intercooler, squeezing through the front wall where theres already the one intercooler pipe as well as the inlet pipe (which i might have to change anyway) and back up over the engine.. well it seems a bit wasteful *IF* there is a viable alternative. to me, paying $600ish (dont know what that converts into NZ dollars) for an inlet manifold isnt really what i'd call a viable alternative. getting something like an l28 inlet manifold with the throttle body already on the front, and mating that up to the bottom half of the rb manifold however....
come on guys this is hybridz! dont go telling me to buy prefabricated stuff
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hey, i'm getting around to setting up the intercooler piping for my rb20 280zx. obviously the original crossover pipe design could be improved on, and i was thinking about getting the thottlebody welded onto the front of the manifold to shorten the intercooler pipe length. my question is how will this affect flow within the standard manifold, ie with cylinders leaning out and so forth. im not planning to run masssive power through this engine so im not really requiring something thats 100% efficient, hence why im going for the cheaper option of modifying the orginial manifold over buying a custom built ($$$$$$$) one. surely people have done this before, was just hoping to get the general opinion on whether or not its a good idea. cheers
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is there a difference between the two diffs?
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im talking about rb20 but if the 26 ones fit i might be pretty keen...
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hey all...
so ive been told that the mounts have to be cut in order to fit the rb engine in and tilt it on the correct angle. seeing as z31 mounts are stupidly expensive, cutting is the option that i have gone for, but has anyone done this before who can remember exactly what sort of measurements we are talking about? cheers
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ahhhh yes. it does kick ass, to live in new zealand 8) (except for anyone following the cricket right now
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fair enough, but i think the article posted in this thread should be part of that sticky, i found it way more useful
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Clint' date='
350 chev and supra 5 speed in a 260z. Just about to take the engine over to csl in Palmy for a rebuild. looking for around 450 hp at the crank. Its been a long, drawn out rebuild. over 2.5 years now. I have made new front and rear ends that adress some of the aero issiues and had to replace a lot of roof and floor pan due to rust. Hopefully i will get it out of body and paint jail in Jan.
There is a lot of engines out there. Dont overlook the supra 3.0 turbo. It might be the best bang for buck. I think finding a desent 240 shell will be the hardest bit.
Cheers
Douglas[/quote']
if youre talking about the 7mgte, i agree. the 2j is obviously a far superior engine (comparing 3l turbo toyota mills here), but the 7m you can pick up for around 800 bucks, retorque the headgasket and off you go. speedtech claims that replacing the intercooler and exhaust nets 300hp. now thats bang for buck. and i'd stick it in a 280z. much easier to find a good example for cheap. didnt know there were so many nz'rs on here
and theyre turbo 
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What motor mounts fit well for a RB swap?
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
they use the mounts and sump from the 200zr, i dont think the vg is the same. there was a guy on these forums who makes mounts as well, dont know if he still does though