Jump to content
HybridZ

Lazyeye

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    39

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Lazyeye

    Timing chain rattle?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Vehicle: 1979 280zx, stock N/A engine

     

    Symptoms:

    When the car is cold there is a rattling sound and it runs very rich. After running for 5-10 minutes the rattle clears up and the engine stops running rich. If I stop the engine and wait a few minutes then start up again, the rattle is there for a few miles again.

    While it is rattling and running rich, the engine idle is low, about 400rpm and it hesitates and tries to die when I come to a stop. After 10 minutes or so the richness clears up and the idle comes up to 1400 (I have a lightweight flywheel and haven't adjusted the idle yet).

     

    I adjusted the valves very carefully using the fit/no fit method (thanks to KammyZ's photo tutorial), there was no change to the sound.

     

    I stethoscoped the engine with a driver extension rod and the sound seems to be coming from the block and or the valve cover.

    Link to short video I shot with my blackberry: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6MAzNcwmS8

     

    I've been searching a lot around HBZ and youtube and it seems this could be a timing chain rattle. What do y'all think? If I take the valve cover off, can I check the chain tension? How loose/tight should the chain be?

    Alternator bolts

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    Vehicle: '79 280zx

     

    My ZX has all the symptoms of a bad alternator, so I went to remove it. When I removed it I found out that the adjustment bolt was the only thing holding it in.

     

    My question is: What kind of bolt(s) should be holding the alternator on in addition to the adjustment bolt?

     

    Thank you.

    240z L28et clutch questions

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Lazyeye

    The Fidanza flywheel you linked to is a 240mm, and you shouldn't have a problem mating it to the 240mm clutch you linked to. The TOB will be the same size, but the collar may need to be changed.

    What transmission and clutch are you CURRENTLY running? Measure the length between the back of the fork mating surface and the beginning of the bearing mating surface on the TOB collar, what is it in MM? There are two common measurement of TOB collars here, and you may or may not need a new one. The turbo clutch pressure plates are typically "taller" than the NA pressure plates and thus require a slightly shorter (1mm or so) TOB collar, which depending where your tranny came from you might already have.

     

    When changing to a performance clutch from a normal street clutch, almost always the clutch pedal will need to be adjusted. This is so that the TOB pushes "harder" into the diaphragm springs on the clutch. Spray some WD-40 on the lock nut, turn it out, then turn the rod (the one that goes through the firewall). Turn it (clockwise?) so that you have less of the rod in the cabin and more on the firewall side.

     

    *Edit: be aware that the Fidanza flywheel has shallower bolt holes than the stock steel one. 2-3mm shallower.

    My distributor caught on fire

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    I remember early v12 jaguar engines had a vacuum hose to the distributor cap. This was to evacuate fuel vapors from the cap, preventing an explosion/ fire/ condensation.

     

    I'm betting your "episode" was a fuel leak, ignited by a spark plug wire,at the cap.......YOU ARE VERY LUCKY.

     

    I always have a fire extinguisher in the Datsun. I should put one in the DD Benz.

    See Grumpyvettes thread for additional reinforcement of this very usefull suggestion....

     

    BTW........I have four in my home.........( my ex wife used the smoke alarm as a cooking aide)

     

     

    The Distributor itself was OK. The cap/rotor/wires were all toasted. I checked around for leaks and didn't find any. I replaced the melted/burned parts and it works.

    I think I'm going to chalk this up to some kind of short or something due to the squirrels the previous owner kept under the hood. I'll keep a close eye on it as I work on other parts of the car.

    The adiction to Z?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by Lazyeye

    I like to drive fast(er than I should). The reason I got into Z's instead of any other brand was because I wanted to learn what was under the hood, and there were plenty of readily available Z's being sold.

     

    Aesthetically though I prefer Z's of the 70s-80s to other cars of the era.

    My distributor caught on fire

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Car: 79-280zx

    Miles: 80K, I've owned it for about 100miles

     

    Last night I was taking my 1979 280zx for a shakedown run after finishing up with the clutch. After about 30 miles I had a sudden loss of power, like the engine just died for no apparent reason. I popped the hood and saw that the distributor was ON FIRE. We batted the fire out and then my buddy Chris towed my car back to his garage (good thing he tailed me in his 300zx).

     

    distributerfire1.jpg

     

    It was late and I was kinda angry, so I didn't investigate past taking a few pics with my Blackberry.

     

    I've never heard of this happening, any ideas on why it would catch on fire?

    Clutch Won't Disengage (new clutch, Fidanza flywheel)

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by Lazyeye

    Sorry to resurrect this but I need info.

    After being told I needed a 2+2 collar, I bought one and then found out it was SHORTER than what I needed. So then I researched more and found this:

    http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

    Which suggested that the 4-speed sleeve was longer. Well I got my sleeve for a 4-speed today and its the same length as the collar that was originally in my 5-speed.

    http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg154/variablex85/Mobile%20Uploads/1266633953.jpg

    Left to right: 2+2 30501-K0404 (too short), 4-speed 30501-1c104 (same length as original), the original out of my 5-speed '79 (too short)

     

     

    So I'm at a loss here. The Nissan dealership thats been helping me says there is one other Sleeve, part number 30501-S0284. But I couldn't find out what its length is since its a special order item.

     

    Before I blow another $20 on a sleeve that may or may not be the correct sleeve, can anybody tell me which one I *should* be looking for?

     

     

     

    EDIT:

    Its looking like that may not have been the issue in the first place. I finally took calipers to measure, and the flywheel isn't thinner as thought. I'm investigating the hydraulic system and clutch pedal as the culprit. This thread can probably die now.

    Clutch Won't Disengage (new clutch, Fidanza flywheel)

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by Lazyeye
    adding details

    Clutch: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC02/21-2011

    Centerforce 2, 225mm for 74-83 non-turbo coupe. Replacing OEM non-turbo clutch

    Flywheel: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC06/21-2021

     

    The master cylinder rod length, is that the piece thats part of the pedal assembly?

     

    The throwout bearing is an OEM type (new), same manufacturer and model number as the Nissan dealer listed.

     

    For bleeding the system, can you offer any advice outside of what the FSM says?

     

    Thanks guys.

×
×
  • Create New...